‘80夜店style 搖出時尚活力
Club the Way with Granny Style


關於80年代的夜店生活影響到時尚伸展台的精采敘事,其實現在可以籌備於今年7月前往倫敦V&A博物館一覽。因為V&A接下來將舉辦「從俱樂部到伸展台:80英倫時尚潮流」(Club to Catwalk: London Fashion in the 1980s)展覽,即討論了夜店生活對時尚的發酵經典,從時裝到配件,依照銳舞、哥德與新浪漫風潮類別,羅列了超過85件設計師作品,其中更包含樂團歌手Boy George、David Bowie等打歌服。不僅如此,更蒐集了雜誌〈The Face〉、〈i-D〉和〈Blitz〉在當時80年代對夜店風推波助瀾的專題影像,作為紀錄寫照,其中〈Blitz〉還與Levi Strauss & Co合作,一口氣找來22位設計師設計「趴哩啪哩」丹寧夾克,也皆能在展覽一窺究竟。千萬別小看夜店魅力。««

右為Vivienne Westwood幫Levi Strauss & Co設計的丹寧夾克。左為Enrico Coveri為Levi Strauss & Co繪製的草圖。

右為Vivienne Westwood幫Levi Strauss & Co設計的丹寧夾克。左為Enrico Coveri為Levi Strauss & Co繪製的草圖。

 


V&A博物館「80年代夜店與時尚」
主題:「Club to Catwalk: London Fashion in the 1980s
展期:2013/7/102014/2/16
網址:www.vam.ac.uk


»»You think clubbing is still the youth’s leisure activities? In the 80s, at the peak of clubbing, legends were made with your grannies. While the dressings were way more splendid than nowadays, let us review the granny style clubbing costume of the 80s.

In the 80s, there are many great music legends such as New Wave’s Duran Duran and Boy George. While Duran Duran’s style is more glamour in rock and new romanticism, he has led the fashion of the time with wide shoulder pads, leathered costumes and some militarized badges. As of Boy George, the unisexual look is always the sexiest of the time. He influenced London’s fashion greatly with his 80s flirtation.

For club is more like a “fashion and music salon” back then, London’s Taboos has been a legendary club of the time. As the one who build this legend, Leigh Bowery, can definitely be pointed as the most influential person of the clubbing style at the time. While being a fashion designer, he is also a performer. He loved weird costumes such as clowned white face makeups, sequined dresses, and high heels. As an old customer of Taboo, the club is always full with new and exotic looks.

As the lead icon of yappy and fashion of the 80s, John Galliano’s 2003 SS collection paid a tribute to Leigh Bowery with exaggerated makeups and staged look designs. Alexander McQueen’s 2009 FW’s chidori patterned New Look collection painted the models with the sausage lips, reminded us the image of Leigh Bowery. In Meadham’s 2013 SS collection, his elements of Taboo are obvious with Queen Mary’s Rococo collages.

The designers of the 80s, including John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood, Paul Smith, Jasper Conran, and more, are all influenced by Leigh Bowery. In John Galliano’s 1986 Fallen Angel, we observed the trends of 80’s clubbing, Vivienne Westwood and Levi Strauss & Co’s 1986 collaboration also can see the sedition within the design. Further, Stevie Stewart and David Holah’s 1982 Body map’s chartered wools, we can also sense the clubbing trends within them.

For people who would love to see more of the greatness of 80’s clubbing, the London V&A museum’s July exhibit, “Club to Catwalk: London Fashion in the 1980s” is definitely a great place to go for it exhibits more than 80 designer pieces including Boy George and David Bowie’s costume, The Face, i-D, and Blitz’s themed magazines along with 22 designers’ denim jacket designs. ««

 

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