「偽娘」時代 男子變裝成主流
Fashion Drag is Coming


Phillipe Blond本身就是品牌代言人,一頭金髮加上姣好臉龐,難得的纖細身材和超長美腿,穿起自家閃亮亮寶石馬甲,和真正的女人幾乎沒有兩樣。多次直接站上伸展台展演自己的設計作品,帶給觀眾驚喜,更完全無懼旁人眼光,每每在謝幕時大方和David Blond上演濕吻秀。受封為時尚界第一變裝皇后,完全當之無愧。 

Phillipe Blond在The Blonds 2013春夏大秀中,穿上自己設計的珠寶馬甲(左),還不忘在謝幕時,和親密愛人以熱吻感謝觀眾支持。

Phillipe Blond在The Blonds 2013春夏大秀中,穿上自己設計的珠寶馬甲(左),還不忘在謝幕時,和親密愛人以熱吻感謝觀眾支持。

偽娘風氣盛行 橫走時尚伸展台
有些設計師無論是否愛穿女裝,卻喜好將女裝設計元素加入男裝設計,顯出設計創意無上限的獨特風格。John Galliano雖然自己較少以女裝示人,但屢屢在男裝秀上,讓男模穿上裙子,甚或畫上超娘濃妝,表達出女裝在男性身上的陰柔美感,且John Galliano的男性裙裝設計,配合每季主題不同,以印花、雪紡紗或是撞色色塊發揮各式創意,只是John Galliano離開同名品牌後,便不見裙裝在伸展台上裙襬搖搖,不免令人興起懷念。Jean Paul Gaultier也是伸展台上男扮女裝始祖之一,頻頻在男裝秀伸展台上祭出平口馬甲、猶如晚禮服般的長裙等各式風格設計,為原本男裝設計注入似高級訂製般的頂級質感。

John Galliano在每季男裝設計中,總少不了裙裝造型(左、中:2009春夏、2008秋冬),Jean Paul Gaultier亦在男裝添加豐富女裝元素(右:2010春夏)。

John Galliano在每季男裝設計中,總少不了裙裝造型(左、中:2009春夏、2008秋冬),Jean Paul Gaultier亦在男裝添加豐富女裝元素(右:2010春夏)。

女裝男穿設計師層出不窮,Comme des Garçons、Ann Demeulemeester、Rick Owens或是Givenchy為中性潮流每每開出奇葩,而2013秋冬男裝繼續吹拂變裝風潮。J.W. Anderson 2013秋冬男裝,讓男模穿上荷葉滾邊皮褲裙,配上同款設計長靴,少女可愛氣息展露無疑。Thom Browne 也在同一季和J.W. Anderson有志一同,意圖讓男性同胞大變裝,只是這次改走中國風路線,以陰沈的晚娘臉孔取勝。Yohji Yamamoto 也在2013秋冬以熟男姿態穿上長洋裝,更為模特兒加上一抹鬍子,更顯雌雄同體的趣味感。 

2013 秋冬男裝伸展台上也見女裝元素。(左:Thom Browne ,中、右:J.W. Anderson)

2013 秋冬男裝伸展台上也見女裝元素。(左:Thom Browne ,中、右:J.W. Anderson)

過往或許被認為只會在變裝秀或是伸展台上才會出現的男扮女裝,近年民風大開之後,不少型男紛紛穿起裙裝,也無所謂「無畏眾人眼光」情事,因為大家早已將女裝男穿視為時尚潮流的一部份,敗壞風俗等負面評價,早已被拋諸於腦後。尤其是中國時尚潮人韓火火,雖堅持不穿裙裝,但以一身女裝或高跟鞋展現妖嬈氣質,吸引街拍攝影師Scott Schuman捕捉其女裝風采。近來時尚圈更積極推展男性時尚與美容的界線,將原本被認為的女性專利普及化,Tom Ford開始大力倡導男性保養、化妝之必要,Aquazzura也讓男模在展覽中穿上粉紅色高跟鞋。設計師說,一開始比較難說服讓男模們穿上高跟鞋,但一旦他們穿上之後,就開始瘋狂拍照,還玩得不亦樂乎,可見型男們對於穿著女裝的接受度,比我們想像中的還要高,而或許在不久的未來,男裝與女裝的衣櫃,將沒有界線。««

街頭型男紛紛穿上裙裝,可見男扮女裝早已是時尚潮流之一(左、中),中國潮人韓火火則以女性褲裝展現妖嬈氣質(右)。

街頭型男紛紛穿上裙裝,可見男扮女裝早已是時尚潮流之一(左、中),中國潮人韓火火則以女性褲裝展現妖嬈氣質(右)。

»» No matter who you are, everyone has equal right to choose what they want to wear. Since Louis XIV has opened the way for men to put on women’s accessary publicly and formally, fashion drag becomes the new trend on the runway and streets.

In traditional drama, actors take more advantage than actresses for the sex bias in China or the singing potentials in Western Opera. However, Louis XIV has broken the line between menswear and womenswear when he puts on high heels and wigs that originally are the symbol of political power and social status but gradually become the main accessary for women.

Fashion designers like Marc Jacobs and The Blonds’ Phillipe Blond were all addicted to drag. While Marc Jacobs often wears womenswear appearing on fashion magazines, Phillipe Blond is the real drag queen who dresses up like a real woman no matter publicly and privately.

Even though John Galliano and Jean Paul Gaultier don’t wear womenswear, they instilled many womenswear design element in their men’s collection. In 2013 A/W collection, Comme des Garçons, Ann Demeulemeester, Rick Owens, Givenchy, J.W. Anderson, Thom Browne , Yohji Yamamoto all dress up men with womenswear design.

When more and more people accept the concept of men wearing women dress, the fashion drag trend would be adopted by more stylish men, such as the fashion bloggers or fashion icons. Welcome to the drag era. ««

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