中國街拍成品牌戰場 淪為商業炒作亂象
Market of Street Style in China


街拍發展蓬勃,韓火火認為目前中國街拍,則存在一些發展問題:「有要求的好街拍太少,過於商業而缺乏美感的街拍卻很多。」畢竟街拍的影響,滿足普通人躍升時尚紅人的心態。太多人想藉由街拍而一戰成名,但是僧多粥少卻是每個領域都會遇到的瓶頸。在這樣的情況下,走偏了方向或是扭曲了風格,而成為妖魔鬼怪,也不是不可能。另一方面張佳音說,這是中國街拍以明星為賣點的「不可避免之惡」。大眾喜歡看明星,加上品牌提供資金介入其中,自然會遇到客戶許多商業要求。張佳音自己也說,如果不是自己的網站,當遇到客戶要求與自我視角有所牴觸時,他還是會調整傾向客戶。

品牌也順著這股風氣,自己搞街拍,像是中國品牌Mo & Co.就開設自身的街拍平台「Mo Style Daily」推銷自家服飾。

品牌也順著這股風氣,自己搞街拍,像是中國品牌Mo & Co.就開設自身的街拍平台「Mo Style Daily」推銷自家服飾。

中國街拍的快速發展,也引來一些批評,像是喪失最早挖掘分享創意的初衷,街拍變成一種炒作手段。其中還有部落格以「捉妖記」為題寫文章,來諷刺明星街拍的亂象。街拍市場變得飽合,等到消費者逐漸對街拍失去新鮮感,那剩下的就是等誰來戳破這層脆弱的泡沫。回到文章的初衷,街拍對於想踏進時尚圈的人來說,絕對是塊敲門磚,更可以是許多品牌與相關工作者的點金石。只不過當一切變得商業導向,而失去街拍最早分享風格的意義時,那街拍是否還有價值?而消費者是否買單?這都是中國街拍背後必須再思考的問題。««

»»From Bill Cunngingman and Scott Schuman to Tommy Ton and Phil Oh, the group of fashion photographers have much pushed the trend of street style. Now, in China, the fashion industry has also been involved in street style phenome. 

P1.cn was one of the first street snap site in China with which photographer Roy Zhang has worked. Roy later left and unveiled his own site about street snap ShanghaiExpress which feature the stylish people at city of Shanghai. Influenced much by Scott Schuman, Zhang took snap with his own vision on style to raise the quality. That’s totally different with what he has done for P1.cn which upload a great account of street snap without consideration on quality. However, the snaps featured the normal people are rare in China, where media prefer much celebrities.  

In that case, Han Hou Hou, the ex-editor of China Marie Claire, has been inspired to open his own site Fire Bible about celebrities’ snap shot. He has invited stars, models, signers and actress every issue. Han has explained that the site of street snap wasn’t a item profitable. However, it did really evoke some commercial effect, including the labels’ sponsor and collaboration. 

Not only media but also wear labels has taken street snap as the strategy of promotion. Mo Style Daily, which featured the clothes from Chinese local brand Mo&Co. is actually the advertisement in form of street style blog. In spite of its bloomsome in China, Han Hou Hou pointed out some problem about this issue that it did exist so many items about street style but rare has focus on quality. Roy Zhang thought on the other side that it’s inevitable sin if Chinese industry often focus on celebrities. All depends on the clients. 

Back to the core sprit of street style, we need to wonder that what will stay if it has lost original value, if the customers will accept it? That’s the problem we need to rethink.«« 

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