中國鏡花水月 映照西方時尚
Eastern Influences in Western Fashions


民國之後,種種時尚經典與中華文化碰撞的精彩火花繼續燃燒,唯獨中山裝另闢一條蹊徑,成為設計師大作文章的新題材。Vivienne Tam 1995年的毛澤東系列,便將毛澤東像小小「改頭換面」,作為拼貼在洋裝上的小圖案;Marc Jacobs 2015春夏變形中山裝,拉出寬鬆輪廓並束緊腰身線條,迥異於原本男性剛硬的服裝性格,成為女性表達自信和行動力的符號。從絲綢看到中山裝,中華文化千年底蘊對於西方時尚的影響絕非三言兩語可以說通透,就單從服飾特色的影響來看,已經自成一套時尚語言,相信在未來的時尚教科書中,所謂「中國風」定能在二十一世紀歷史中佔有重要篇章。««

Vivienne Tam 1995春夏的毛澤東印花洋裝引起一陣騷動。

Vivienne Tam 1995春夏的毛澤東印花洋裝引起一陣騷動。

»»The latest exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, shines a spotlight on China and the East. The interflow of cultures was always there in history, where reeception itself goes back centuries, and reaction was always complicated. When Chinese silks arrived in ancient Rome, they caused a double-edged sensation. Conflicted Western attitudes toward an exotic East became the rule, as did a dynamic of back-and-forth influence. During the 18th-century Enlightenment, when Europe was in a mood to embrace the unknown, a vogue for chinoiserie swept the continent, creating a vast market for luxury goods — fabrics, ceramics, lacquerware — either brought from China or produced locally in a Chinese style: French gowns were sometimes made from imported silk printed with “Chinese” motifs that originated in Europe. 

The influence is still strongly felt in modern fashion today, in the 70s Yves Saint Laurent was deeply interested in Chinese influences with Oriental robes and embroidery. Tom Ford continued this legacy with the 2004 Fall Winter Collection, with sequined off shoulder kimonos, and cheongsam design influences. The designer who never tires of bringing Oriental influences is none other than John Galliano, all the way from his 1998 FW collection to 2003, and 2008 couture shows. His ideal Madame X is one that blends East and West aesthetic beautifully together. 

Dragon embroidery has always been an exotic motif of many designers, as seen in the Ralph Lauren Winter 2012 FW collection; Valentino put out a Shanghai collection in 2013, and has never stopped looking to the East for inspiration. Emilio Pucci also had a golden dragon on their 2013 Spring Summer look. The White and Blue China has also been a favorite of many, Roberto Cavalli used it for 2005 Fall Winter, and again for 2013 Cruise collection. Vivienne Tam has been putting Mao’s portrait on her dresses since 1995, and Marc Jacobs used the cheongsam silhouette for SS 2015. We are sure to see this Oriental craze blow up even further with the exhibition happening.««

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