倫敦女裝2015秋冬特別報導2: 流蘇拼接波西米亞風情 荷葉邊與格紋風潮再起
London 2015AW Women’s Collection Trend Report


英版<Elle>舉辦的Style Awards晚會,現場眾星雲集。(左起Christopher Kane、Lily Allen、Poppy Delevingne、Tallulah Harlach、Cara Delevingne、Suki Waterhouse)

英版<Elle>舉辦的Style Awards晚會,現場眾星雲集。(左起Christopher Kane、Lily Allen、Poppy Delevingne、Tallulah Harlach、Cara Delevingne、Suki Waterhouse)

»»倫敦2015秋冬女裝週,在英版<Elle>Style Awards晚會的喧囂聲中,畫下了完美且星光熠熠的句點。而倫敦不愧被稱為創意之都的美名,儘管時尚圈Normcore概念當道,本季設計師仍堅持透過輪廓、材質、印花等方面,來闡明各自的設計理念。從Burberry Prorsum的嬉皮美學、Christopher Kane的人體剪影創意,到Mary Katrantzou對於各式材質的混搭與融合,都讓人覺得耳目一新,得以從洋溢伸展台的「街頭運動」風潮中,呼吸到新鮮氣息。

Trend 1 異材拼接 從顏色到材質
百家爭鳴的創意之中,異材質拼接手法,包含不同顏色到各式材質,成為了設計師們的共同選擇。以「拼接、圖騰與印花」(Patchwork、Pattern and Prints)作為設計主題的Bruberry Prorsum,就將印有地毯式花紋,充滿民族風情的各式面料,用來重新詮釋品牌經典風衣。同時,也以同樣手法,延伸出一系列透露波西米亞流浪氣息的浪漫洋裝。同樣透露1970年代時尚精神的Tom Ford,卻從顏色與材質下手,除了一系列撞色的鉛筆群與長褲,還有搶眼的豹紋、丹寧拼接單品,呈現一種華麗、張狂的態度。力圖轉型的Daks,也透過黑、紅與駝色色塊的拼接,賦予服裝蒙德里安式的幾何架構,趕上這波異材拼接潮流。

倫敦2015秋冬,異材質拼接手法包含不同顏色到各式材質。(由左至右:Bruberry Prorsum、Daks、Tom Ford)

倫敦2015秋冬,異材質拼接手法包含不同顏色到各式材質。(由左至右:Bruberry Prorsum、Daks、Tom Ford)

至於備受注目的倫敦新銳設計師部分,擅長融合各式面料的Michael van der Ham,再一次拿出看家本領,推出一系列層次豐富的洋裝設計。Christopher Kane則聚焦人體剪影,除了女性側面輪廓外,秀末一系列男女輪廓蕾絲,交纏而成的薄透洋裝,更透露情慾成分。至於印花見長的Mary Katrantzou,則將復古地毯式印花面料、塑料,以及巧克力磚壓紋的科技面料,碰撞出融合新舊的時尚新風貌。
Trend 1  Collage of Textures and Colors
Burberry led the trend with their “Patchwork, Pattern and Prints” theme this year, evoking a sense of bohemian chic. Tom Ford also took leaf out of the 70s, with colors that clashed on his pencil skirts and trousers, there were also denim and leopard prints thrown into the mix. Daks utilized black, red, and camel block colors, creating a geometrical collage that was reminiscent of Modiran paintings. Micheal van der Ham brought out layered dresses, and Christopher Kane focused on the side silhouette of a women’s face, and Mary Katrantzou took inspiration from retro floral prints, reminding us of curtains, rugs, and tiles.

倫敦新銳設計師也加入這波異材質拼接熱潮。(由左至右:Michael van der Ham、Mary Katrantzou、Christopher Kane)

倫敦新銳設計師也加入這波異材質拼接熱潮。(由左至右:Michael van der Ham、Mary Katrantzou、Christopher Kane)

Trend 2  荷葉邊裝飾 柔和服裝線條
異材質拼接之外,圓融靈動的荷葉邊,成為倫敦2015秋冬女裝另一項主要裝飾手法。其中,品牌Preen by Thornton Bregazzi可說最為癡迷,無論洋裝的裙襬、袖口、針織作品的接合處,甚至長褲的兩側,都可見荷葉輪廓。在David Koma強調曲線與皮革元素的系列迷你裙裝作品,也讓袖口如花朵綻放,呈現流動線條。J.W. Anderson前衛而抽象的服裝輪廓中,透過鬆緊不一的抓皺、縫合,讓自然曲線凸顯出面料的可塑性。而Peter Pilotto與Simone Rocha兩個品牌,雖然同樣利用荷葉輪廓為服裝收邊,卻在輕薄與厚重的面料選擇下,呈現出截然不同的情緒與風格。
Trend 2  Ruffles and Soft Lines
Soft, flowing lines with a touch of feminine ruffles were spotted quite frequently at this year’s London fashion week, with Preen by Thornton Bregazzi applying ruffles to almost every look, even the trousers had them. David Koma emphasized curves and leather, but he also had ruffled cuffs, and J W Anderson sported a range of different tecniques, from the draping to stitching. Peter Pilotto and Simone Rocha all had ruffles in their design, but each gave us a different style with their differing fabrics used.

倫敦設計師不約而同聚焦荷葉邊裝飾。(由左至右:Preen by Thornton Bregazzi、J.W. Anderson、David Koma)

倫敦設計師不約而同聚焦荷葉邊裝飾。(由左至右:Preen by Thornton Bregazzi、J.W. Anderson、David Koma)

Trend 3  格紋不死 可叛逆可優雅
裝飾元素方面,各式格紋再度抬頭。除卻以格紋作為品牌基因的Daks不說,Paul Smith就選擇至少3種格紋配置,來豐富本季寬鬆、舒適為導向的系列女裝。永遠龐克的Vivienne Westwood,也為旗下Red Label系列,注入正統的蘇格蘭格紋,以確保叛逆血統的傳承。在Topshop Unique秀場中,設計師則祭出駝色系的格紋大衣與鉛筆裙單品,與Preen by Thoraton Bregazzi染上亮黃、鮮橘與亮藍色澤的格紋單品,形成強烈對比。不過真要比較,還是House of Holland螢光粉紅格紋大衣來的最為搶眼,在人群中一定萬眾矚目。
Trend 3  Tartans and Checkered Patterns
Being a British fashion show, how could these checkered patterns be absent? From Daks to Paul Smith to Vivienne Westwood, the array of all the stripes and squares on display were dazzling, and Vivienne Westwood guaranteed hers were the real deal Tartans. These eye-catching patterns were also seen at Topshop Unique, and Preen by Thoraton Bregazzi juxtaposed them with bright colors, as did House of Holland, which gave us a neon-pink checkered cats which is surely street-style bait.

格紋再度成為流行指標。(由左至右:Topshop Unique、Paul Smith、Vivienne Westwood Red Label)

格紋再度成為流行指標。(由左至右:Topshop Unique、Paul Smith、Vivienne Westwood Red Label)


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