倫敦2012秋冬女裝報導之三: 色彩風暴來襲 立體剪裁出擊
London FW2012 Women’s Collections: Colorful Rhapsody


Paul Smith與Vivienne Westwood Red Label則堅守設計師風格下,以色彩或圖案運用替秋冬服裝增添變化。Paul Smith維持他擅長的男孩風,以男性西裝布料塑造出英倫都會女性的帥氣。在秋冬沉穩色盤裡,鈷藍、芥黃等鮮豔色塊跳躍在燈心絨或天鵝絨單品上,而螢光橘或土黃的漸層暈染在俐落的西裝褲裝上,而品牌招牌的色塊條紋則在直筒洋裝上壓低彩度蔓延,替簡約的系列增添清新活潑的氛圍。龐克教母Vivienne Westwood的Red Label系列維持上季較低調的戲劇氛圍,以她專長的不對稱立體剪裁,將男性西裝與街頭風格調配成個性女裝。英倫格紋布料形塑的套裝,因為領口與裙襬的立體結構與垂墜,設計顯得隨興不羈;街頭元素則以抽象的印花馴服,乖巧潛伏在連身工作服或多層次搭配中;而上季的部落圖騰,也轉換成披掛寬鬆的垂墜洋裝,或者在造型師巧手下,彩繪成模特兒皮膚上的裝飾,微微透露出設計師內心的野性呼喚。

Paul Smith(左一至二)與Vivienne Westwood Red Label(右一至二)的秋冬系列皆回歸品牌經典精神。

Paul Smith(左一至二)與Vivienne Westwood Red Label(右一至二)的秋冬系列皆回歸品牌經典精神。

已有超過30年法籍設計師Nicole Farhi與設計新銳Thomas Tait則不約而同以建築雕塑手法型塑秋冬系列。Nicole Farhi以維也納分離派(Secession movement)為發想,使用微微金屬光澤的布料或是局部霧面亮片裝飾,使人聯想到該畫派的精神領袖克林姆(Gustav Klimt)金色輝煌風格;而在剪裁上,利用布料挺度雕塑出立體肩線,或者在大衣或洋裝上的幾何線條剪接,也與其主題相互映。Thomas Tait本就以現代建築線條為其品牌特色,而本季亦在外套領口幾何的線條或大衣翻領比例上有精彩簡潔的表現;另外亮點則在草綠與銘黃的應用,讓整系列在色塊堆疊下,活躍而摩登。««

Nicole Farhi(左一至二)與 Thomas Tait(右一至二)皆以立體雕塑手法型塑秋冬女性。

Nicole Farhi(左一至二)與 Thomas Tait(右一至二)皆以立體雕塑手法型塑秋冬女性。

»»Vivid colors played an important role in London’s runway today. Mulberry’s theme was the children’s story and movie, Where the Wild Things Are, and the creative director Emma Hill translated this fantasy world into a shaggy and vigorous collection with elegance. Fur with different color, length and print appeared in coats, skirts, vast and even bags while chrome yellow and vivid orange added another vivid atmosphere to this elegant version.

Mario Schwab’s muse was also related to movies, Marlene Dietrich, a legendary actress of femme fatale in film noir. In cloche or wide-brim hat and black leather gloves, models look mysterious and sexy in some ways.

Acne applied colorful tone to make a youthful collection. Oversized silhouette dominated its runway show while broad belts highlighted waistline, making the proportion slimmer and taller. The bright patches of colors and great mix of materials also brought a vigorous touch to the fall/winter line-up. Besides, Matthew Williamson and Jonathan Saunders also took colorful approaches, but not in a dramatic silhouette as Acne did. While Williamson let square sequin embroideries look like circuitry, creating a technological atmosphere, Saunders mixed elegance with sporty elements by applying bright colors and geometric patterns,

Paul Smith and Vivienne Westwood Red Label remained the spirit of their brands. The former kept the designer’s preference for tomboyish look and added mustard yellow and cobalt blue to the suits. The later adopted a low-key approach and Vivienne Westwood combined her preference to draping, asymmetrical cutting to blend menswear fabrics, street elements and tribal factors together.

Nicole Farhi and Thomas Tait provided sculptural viewpoints on the runway, rather than colorful narration. The former, inspiring by Secession Movement, built glimmering and structural collection while the later manipulated his signature architectural preference to reconstruct a concise line-up with yellow, gross-green and black.««

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