倫敦2014秋冬女裝報導之六:立體捏玩裝飾風 撩亂印花重技法
London 2014AW Women’s Collection Trend Report


Trend 4:鏤空透視手法 露不露點都性感
本季的絲薄鏤空宣言從老牌到新銳都宣示效忠,第一天時裝週開秀Daks就已經搶先發表格紋的拼接透視,David Koma秋冬探索十字編織,在布料上的各式運用,從亮面皮革延伸到蕾絲變化,大玩科技面料;充滿少女喧嘩熱鬧的House of Holland和Meadham Kirchhoff在俗麗中,以布料突顯透視小性感。熟女Julien Macdonald整體系列都走半裸比全裸更性感的誘人調性;Sister by Sibling本季也收起玩心,讓針織鏤空突顯姊姊們才有的妖嬈風韻。Burberry Prorsum的全身鏤空長裙,率性只用絲巾和底褲遮點,Marques’Almeida則拿了羽毛作為重點裝飾,Simone Rocha乾脆連點也不用掩蓋,令人驚艷的格紋鏤空花紋設計,自然會引開注目眼光。

Trend 4: Hollow Cutting
No matter old or junior brands all show their loyalty to hollow cutting. From day one Daks has proclaimed its statement to the last day emerging designer Simone Rocha create hollow glamour with check bar. Burberry Prorsum, Marques’Almeida, House of Holland, Meadham Kirchhoff and Sister by Sibling present their creativity all through the sexy design skill.

連身鏤空設計預告2014秋冬可要練就不畏寒體質。(由左至右:Simone Rocha、Burberry Prorsum、David Koma)

連身鏤空設計預告2014秋冬可要練就不畏寒體質。(由左至右:Simone Rocha、Burberry Prorsum、David Koma)

Trend 5:動物園大門開 獸皮鳥紋昆蟲現蹤
冬季少有花朵盛開,設計師便為大家帶來動物昆蟲同歡,Tom Ford以皮革皮草方式馴服叢林野生動物,成為衣飾上的奢華豹紋、鱷魚皮革、貂皮皮草設計。Topshop Unique貫穿整體設計的孔雀伏蛇圖,搭配羽毛圖樣和獨角仙、鳥類印花,引發動物圖鑑的另類想像。另一位愛鳥類的品牌Giles將藍羽橙腹的振翅蜂鳥豢養在服裝系列中,增添更多活潑生氣,但突然爬出來的獨角仙著實嚇壞了大家。Fashion East的Ashley Williams也是愛動物人士,裝可愛貓咪、奔騰小馬都上身;向來只愛在極地走動的Christopher Raeburn,時尚吉祥物自然非北極熊莫屬,女模身上的熊熊圖案針織毛衣,連設計師本人都搶著穿。

Trend 5: Animal Allurement
Designers play the role as zoo keeper when they put animals on their clothing design. Tom Ford takes leopard and crocodile leather for the print; Topshop Unique chooses peacock, Giles has hummingbird, Christopher Raeburn owns polar bear as their mascots. ««

動物皮草或圖樣啟發設計師秋冬靈感。(由左至右:Ashley Williams、Topshop Unique、Tom Ford)

動物皮草或圖樣啟發設計師秋冬靈感。(由左至右:Ashley Williams、Topshop Unique、Tom Ford)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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