倫敦2016秋冬女裝報導六:毛料皮草展奢華 經典輪廓懷舊再現
London 2016 AW Women’s Collection Trend Report


除了服裝,配件上也同樣充滿皮草的元素。(圖為Christopher Kane秋冬女裝)

除了服裝,配件上也同樣充滿皮草的元素。(圖為Christopher Kane秋冬女裝)

»»打著即看即買的口號,紐約時裝周儼然掀起一股革命,而倫敦方面,Burberry登高一呼後,卻是曲高和寡,Kering率先宣布旗下品牌不會跟風外,法國服裝公會也跟進發出聲明,法國老牌們,將維持傳統,讓消費者等上半年。少了如紐約時裝周中的名人設計師,像是Kanye West及Rihanna,以及當地品牌對改革的默不吭聲,倫敦女裝周,相較下,媒體篇幅少,但表現,依舊亮眼。精湛的工藝、經典的品牌風格,為接下來的奧斯卡頒獎典禮,提供了不少紅毯首選。

Trend 1  抗寒兼奢華  皮革毛料好溫暖 
毛料在秋冬秀上,始終是主角,當然本季也不例外。除了皮草,人工纖維製成的毛料,也佔有一席之地,更搭配著皮革面料,以華貴風華佔領伸展台。除了整件皮草外套外,細節處同樣精彩。Topshop Unique以夾克毛領,創造倒三角輪廓之餘,更增加整體奢華感;Anya Hindmarch則在肩線至手臂的部分,利用蓬鬆的皮草,創造出寬大卻柔和的輪廓;J.W. Anderson貫徹裝飾主義,裙襬改用皮革拼接;Alexander McQueen更利用皮草及皮革結合,短版洋裝不僅看見達利的超現實,女性堅毅的氣質同樣湧現。
Trend 1  Furs Still Own It
Furs have always been the main character of AW collections no matter it’s about men or women. This year, they still keep their important position but dive into a bit more detail parts. The fur collars from Topshop Unique and added onto shoulders to hands fur from Anya Hindmarch prove the mainstream.

設計師在重點部位,利用皮草或是皮革材質,加強輪廓。(左至右為Topshop Unique、Anya Hindmarch、J.W. Anderson)

設計師在重點部位,利用皮草或是皮革材質,加強輪廓。(左至右為Topshop Unique、Anya Hindmarch、J.W. Anderson)

Trend 2  堅守本分  重現品牌經典輪廓
不能說沒新意,反該說,設計師紛紛在今年秋冬的女裝,重新審視品牌價值,以不變應萬變,靜觀這動盪的時尚界。以獵奇風格出名的Gareth Pugh,10周年回歸英倫本質,俐落的剪裁,展現19世紀摩登風情;Alexander McQueen回歸老家倫敦,沿用蝴蝶夢,致敬曾在同場地辦秀的Alexander McQueen本人;Vivienne Westwood儘管取材兩位藝術家,仍不改其經典輪廓及格紋,以及多層次剪裁;Christopher Bailey經典風衣不滅,最後一場的女裝秀,也染上了致敬品牌百年歷史的氛圍。
Trend 2  Keep onto the Classic Silhouette
Maybe it is because the shaking foundation of fashion traditions happened recently, labels looked back to review the old-selves and kept onto the classic silhouettes designers have created before. Even the odd Gareth Pugh turned to classic England design this season. Burberry, though mixed with lots of elements, but the classic cuts were still there for consumers.

許多設計師在本季,選擇審視過去,維持一貫經典的輪廓設計。(左至右為Gareth Pugh、Vivienne Westwood Red Label、Paul Smith)

許多設計師在本季,選擇審視過去,維持一貫經典的輪廓設計。(左至右為Gareth Pugh、Vivienne Westwood Red Label、Paul Smith)

Trend 3  闇黑不再  繽紛色彩點亮秋冬
儘管些許女裝秀上,仍有些淡淡的哥德影子,但綜觀倫敦女裝,繽紛色彩,不同以往抑鬱。除了Paul Smith以色塊對比及懷舊印花創造出的亮眼女裝外,Mary Katrantzou的普普風圖騰,Christopher Kane的繽紛印花,Burberry的亮片紅夾克,Ashley Williams的螢光綠及粉紅洋裝,到House of Holland的Disco霓彩配色夾克,都讓倫敦時裝周,呈現充滿活力且歡愉的氛圍。
Trend 3  No More Black for This Season
Not like before, the color of this season isn’t black. Instead, the patterns which designers created and rainbow colors started to show on the stage. Though there were still black colors in every collection, bright colours like pink or blue took over the surface this time.

倫敦秋冬女裝,不再是深色系的天下。(左至右為Christopher Kane、House of Holland、Mary Katranzou)

倫敦秋冬女裝,不再是深色系的天下。(左至右為Christopher Kane、House of Holland、Mary Katranzou)

Trend 4  運動休閒  寬版睡衣剪裁當道
經典的AB褲款,或是合身的高腰褲,持續受到休閒風格的影響,變得不再貼身,以輕鬆寬版的輪廓,持續在時裝周上發光發熱。Victoria Beckham一改先前銳利輪廓,以休閒的姿態改造女性姿態;Topshop上窄下寬的都市女子輪廓,J.W. Anderson更融合實用性,拉鍊為女裝創造出不同的穿著方式。誰說好身材一定要靠窄版來展現,打造不同輪廓,照樣能展現女性魅力。
Trend 4  Athleisure Holds On but A Bit more Relaxed
The classic cut of women’s clothing like jumpsuit and pencil pants turned a bit more wild with designers trying to convince consumers that fashion isn’t all but skinny. Victoria Beckham changed the Beckham women’s look by turning her collection more relaxed while Topshop Unique’s pajamas silhouette. J.W. Anderson designed with the same idea but also focus on the functions as well.

輕鬆休閒的輪廓,持續在時裝周發光發熱。(左至右為J.W. Anderson、Victoria Beckham、Topshop Unique)

輕鬆休閒的輪廓,持續在時裝周發光發熱。(左至右為J.W. Anderson、Victoria Beckham、Topshop Unique)

Trend 5  不畏寒冬  薄紗搭配高工藝
秋冬自然不缺厚重材質製成的誇張外套,J.W. Anderson有此設計,Marques ‘ Almeida同樣也有,但整體比例仍佔少數,多的,是薄紗絲質的飄逸禮服。一展窈窕身材之餘,面料上精緻的刺繡或是印花,接近高訂的工藝技巧,就算用放大鏡檢視,依舊完美。DAKS的黑色薄紗,帶出些許神秘感;Erdem更是幾乎全系列女裝,都使用薄紗來設計禮服。奧斯卡紅毯,薄紗透視,再次蓄勢待發。
Trend 5  Cold Doesn’t Bother Me Anyway
Even hit by the strong cold worldwide, the designers still presented their collections part focused on the silk and chiffon texture with couture-like craftsmanship from fashion houses. Gowns and dresses were thought strong enough to cover the photo call of Oscar red-carpet.««

薄紗面料的禮服,搭配印花或是精緻的刺繡工藝,相當引人注目。(左至右為Alexander McQueen、DAKS、Erdem)

薄紗面料的禮服,搭配印花或是精緻的刺繡工藝,相當引人注目。(左至右為Alexander McQueen、DAKS、Erdem)

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