全能才子Carlo Mollino 時尚建築也瘋狂
Carlo Mollino’s Hybrid in Modern Fashion


如此一位浪蕩一生的全才藝術家,自然是時尚界靈感泉源的重要源頭。曾獲得義版<Vogue>Who’s Next配飾設計師獎項的Nicholas Kirkwood在2008年時,為Alta Roma設計一款以Carlo Mollino為靈感的鞋履。取自經典Cavour寫字桌,設計師著重於輕與重的不對稱設計,呈現Cavour寫字桌的工藝精神與現代感。另外,Fendi 2012秋冬女裝在香港展出時,老佛爺Karl Lagerfeld即以Carlo Millino與Gio Ponti兩人的風格,將伸展台搭建成科學實驗室,以量角器的刻度為舞台背景,讓女模猶如在實驗中的科學家一樣,十分有趣。

Nicholas Kirkwood依照Cavour寫字桌設計出的高跟鞋具有工藝感。

Nicholas Kirkwood依照Cavour寫字桌設計出的高跟鞋具有工藝感。

Carlo Mollino的情色攝影風格更是時尚廣告源源不絕的拍攝靈感,最值得一看,便是Stella McCartney 2003秋冬女裝廣告創意就是源自Carlo Mollino情色影像。請來Kate Moss擔任廣告主角,演繹放蕩不羈的女性狂野。這幾幅作品在去年的Christies拍賣會上,被預測至少得標價超過3萬英鎊。

Stella McCartney 2003秋冬女裝廣告靈感來自於Carlo Mollino的情色拍立得攝影。

Stella McCartney 2003秋冬女裝廣告靈感來自於Carlo Mollino的情色拍立得攝影。

同樣來自義大利的Givenchy,也受Carlo Mollino影響頗深。2013春夏女裝的鞋履設計承襲Carlo Mollino的工藝精神,以木頭與金屬做鞋跟,並用透明塑料作為鞋面,展現一種看似規矩卻內含狂野的性感。在拍立得內僅著薄紗,半裸的女性胴體也躍上Givenchy 2014秋冬女裝的伸展台,設計師以多樣印花的薄紗襯衫,讓女性的曲線在光影下忽隱忽現。

Carlo Mollino影響Givenchy 2013春夏女裝配件(左)、2014秋冬女裝(右)的設計。

Carlo Mollino影響Givenchy 2013春夏女裝配件(左)、2014秋冬女裝(右)的設計。

似乎Carlo Mollino的現代建築結構很常被設計師拿來應用在鞋履設計上,Marni 2013春夏女裝配件部分又是一例。鞋履部分以金屬、透明合成樹脂作為厚底材質,手環則以幾何木製製造畫龍點睛效果。Tocca 2013秋冬女裝一襲以羊皮拼接薄紗的網狀洋裝,徹底嶄露Carlo Mollino情色攝影的精隨,帶有無限挑逗。Andrew Gn 2014春夏女裝更像一系列回顧設計大師的致敬作品,Gio Ponti、Carlo Mollino、Fernand Léger、 Georges Braque等人的藝術精神皆被融入女裝設計中。繁複的印花、幾何拼接的縫紉法讓女性的摩登特色,充分被表現出來,Carlo Mollino充滿銳角又前衛的設計也可在女裝中發現。看來才子的瘋狂雖然在當代並不被欣賞,不過後世的設計師、藝術家們,皆以大量的新穎設計,向這位當代大師致意。««

Marni 2013春夏女裝配件融入濃厚的Carlo Mollino設計精神。

Marni 2013春夏女裝配件融入濃厚的Carlo Mollino設計精神。

»» Carlo Mollino was born in Turin, Italy, who is one of the most influential industrial designers of the 20th century. His contradictory yet innovate designs have passed beyond the limit of time and fully expressed the modernity.

Specialized in architecture, industrial design, interior design, photography and car-racing, Carlo Mollino devoted his passion in all the categories. This might be due to the influence of his architect father, Eugenio Mollino that Carlo Mollino inherited the craftship and creativity. 

By appropriating objects and materials in a montage way, Mollino displayed a series of contemporary and stunning architectural discourses. “Società Ippica” was one of his masterpieces but which was torn down by the city government in the 60s. As for the interior design, Casa Miller and Casa Mollino were two outstanding examples that presented the perfect combination of color, furniture and atmosphere. 

In the area of furniture design, Carlo Mollino’s organic and geometric style made his design autonomous and out of the commodity category that is called “Turin Barocca” by the industry. One desk he designed for Cas Orengo was auction with 3.8 million dollars that broke the record. 

He was enthusiastic in the extreme sports such as car racing, skiing, and riding planes. Mollino designed racing cars, hotels in the skiing resorts and even published a book about his personal skiing skills. Photography is another habit that he devoted all his life to. Mollino was specialized in polaroid photography which portraited naked women.

Such a talented and profound designer, his works greatly inspired the fashion industry. Nicolas Kirkwood designed a paired of heels based on the famed Cavour desk and Karl Lagerfeld decorated Fendi’s runway in a Mollino style. 

His erotic photography was also imported into Stella McCartney 2003 FW campaign which modeled by Kate Moss. The industrial design DNA was represented through Givenchy 2013 SS and 2014 FW runway in which Riccardo Tisci showed his appreciation towards Mollino. 

In the other examples, Tocca 2013 FW women’s collection, Andrew Gn 2014 SS women’s collection and Marni 2013 SS accessoires all dedicated their respect to Carlo Mollino and his interdisciplinary work.«« 

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