天雷勾動地火 時尚的宗教信仰
Religion Sparkles in Fashion


YSL還在Stefano Pilati年代時,也在2010年秋冬以修女為靈感,貫穿整個系列。但最愛玩宗教梗的還是Givenchy的設計師Riccardo Tisci。男女裝總是帶著陰鬱,時常有宗教類型的圖騰,連品牌目錄或是攝影書,也一併用宗教做為關鍵字。只是黑暗了點。若說最新一季,那就是Dolce & Gabbana 2013秋冬也將義大利老教堂的宗教馬賽克壁畫,一一搬上了服裝和包面,模特兒還帶著十字架的耳環和項鍊。

Givenchy(左)2013春夏男裝融入設計師最愛的聖母、十字符碼,前Saint Laurent設計師Stefano Pilati也為其2010秋冬女裝(中與右),摻著些許修女教徒輪廓。

Givenchy(左)2013春夏男裝融入設計師最愛的聖母、十字符碼,前Saint Laurent設計師Stefano Pilati也為其2010秋冬女裝(中與右),摻著些許修女教徒輪廓。

搖擺禁忌與創意
說穿了,時尚就是想挑戰禁忌。但是回溯根源,宗教影響服裝,絕非從高級成衣開始。早在1200年中古世紀,宗教就是一切,當時宏偉的教堂建築、十字軍征伐,宗教正透過所謂的騎士精神影響著服裝,盔甲、罩袍的型式仍影響著當代時尚。直到後續數百年,宗教仍代表一種身分地位,服裝的輪廓、材質,跟貴族一樣默默影響著其他階級,像是高頂寬沿的帽子,也和16世紀的清教徒有關。但是在法國大革命、階級產生巨大變動後,該說是中產與新富對於服裝更有想法,加上宗教的影響力驟減,與潮流逐漸形成平行線,直至近代。而且是20世紀初的80年代,破壞一切體制的次文化大興,一時之間,大家膽子大了,什麼都敢,才鼓舞了創意的逾矩,尋找宗教的刺激。

不管是攝影師Skye Tan的時尚影像取材自宗教(左),或Dior 2000秋冬高訂(右),時尚設計對宗教信仰充滿興趣。

不管是攝影師Skye Tan的時尚影像取材自宗教(左),或Dior 2000秋冬高訂(右),時尚設計對宗教信仰充滿興趣。

最後,講到逾矩的刺激,時尚與宗教的關係,可以用一幅廣告作為暫時的註解。那就是1991年修女與教士接吻的班尼頓廣告,引發衛道人士和宗教圈的大肆撻伐,但是班尼頓想要傳達的,是一種零界線理念,手段強烈了點,卻成為永恆經典。所以說,時尚與宗教,兩者關係會多密切?想留下多深刻的印記?得看彼此的膽量多大來定奪了。««

班尼頓於1991年的廣告題材觸動衛教人士的道德標準,將宗教聖潔清高形象變得麻辣。

班尼頓於1991年的廣告題材觸動衛教人士的道德標準,將宗教聖潔清高形象變得麻辣。

»»Religion and fashion, the two parallels seemed never come together, once fell in love, the sparkle between them would last decades even centuries. Followed the clues left by the retired pope Benedictus XVI, his Prada‘s red shoes under his rope in 2005 grabbed lots of media’s attention. His outfit from Prada shoes, Tod’s shoes to Gucci sunglasses became the targets for media to chase since then. However, the “fashion” image of Benedictus XVI was misunderstood. The shoes were from small shoes producer Antonio Arellano, and his Mercedes-Benz for the transportation was for security.

Since religion represented conservatism and abstinence, the designers who always seek the excitement and new ideas would go for it to find inspirations. While Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen utilized the cross to decorate their garments, Christian Lacroix and Jean Paul Gaultier also adapted Mary’s image for fashionable dresses. In Dolce & Gabbana 2013 fall and winter collection, we saw the painting in churches revived on the runway.

The religion’s impact toward fashion was even earlier than high fashion. The trend could trace back to Gothic age in1200 when people’s outfit could represent their social statuses. Nevertheless, as the social classes were broken by the progress of economy and culture revolution, religion elements gradually became one of the interesting factors that designers love to use in fashion.««

 

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