富二代花錢不手軟 俄羅斯時尚行情漲停板
Russian Fashion Industry is Rising


時尚精品關注俄羅斯商機,絕非今年才有的重要策略,老早在去年耳聞產業結構變化,造型師同時也是俄版〈Tatler〉時尚總監的Anya Ziourova,於去年接受〈The New York Times〉採訪時,表示過去的俄羅斯行鎖國政策,被箝制封閉許久的國度瞬間被打開,就好像小朋友進入糖果屋般,異常興奮,對於時尚,也是如此。同篇文章裡,還引用Miroslava Duma所言,現下所見的富豪因石油致富,但將近70年對外界極為陌生,他們對時尚有著強烈且飢渴的慾望。就是這樣,讓精品嗅到商機,Jean Paul Gaultier、Dolce & Gabbana等前進莫斯科舉辦時裝發表,Chanel的小黑外套攝影展的世界巡迴演出清單,也列下莫斯科大名。其他如Prada、Miu Miu、Donna Karan等也相繼在去年陸續展店莫斯科。

紅場側邊的百貨商城,是莫斯科知名景點之一。

紅場側邊的百貨商城,是莫斯科知名景點之一。

自從1959年於俄羅斯舉辦時裝發表後,就未在當地舉辦大型發表活動的Dior,今年對國際時尚交流議題相當活絡,不單前進中國大陸,舉辦男女裝秋冬展演,甚至重返莫斯科,地點選在紅場側邊的國家百貨商城(GUM department store),此地正好是Dior去年進駐開店,今年則複製巴黎2013秋冬發表會場,重新於莫斯科亮相,睽違超過50年後的新動作,意味著在地時尚錢都未達飽和,仍有奮力一搏的可能。

Dior最早到俄羅斯辦秀,已是1959年的事了。

Dior最早到俄羅斯辦秀,已是1959年的事了。

為此,Dior除了秋冬大秀之外,也策劃不少一連串活動慶祝,像是秀後派對邀請英國歌手Bryan Ferry現場live演出,眾多俄羅斯名流相偕出席,而莫斯科當地最有名的觀光景點Simachev夜店,為慶祝難得盛會,自行號召發起非官方的秀後派對,吸引不少年輕人前往,瘋狂high到隔天凌晨4點還不回家。Dior負責俄羅斯高訂業務的經理Douglas Mandel同時表示,當地商機錢多多,獲利極高,讓不少品牌覬覦這塊金磚。

Dior在今年7月二度移師莫斯科,選擇在國家百貨商城舉辦秋冬大秀。

Dior在今年7月二度移師莫斯科,選擇在國家百貨商城舉辦秋冬大秀。

以數字來看,去年俄羅斯的奢侈品消費增長6%,將近88億美金,遠比前年約高出兩倍,花錢快狠準程度不輸中國市場,導致Louis Vuitton和Prada等,積極布局俄羅斯市場,在哪裡驗證著愈貴才愈有人問津,價值1萬美金的Hermès包對富二代來說,根本不算什麼;俄羅斯的富家名流們也因為少了老一輩鎖國經歷,愈敢花錢買高端精品,這些促使著俄羅斯時尚金流依然熱絡,處處埋熱錢。««

»»Before, Russia was the country well-known for its culture treasure as fashion designers inspiration boxes and also the birth place of beautiful models. Now the country is rising as one of the most important fashion market. Besides, the wealth of the rich brought them to step on the fashion world establishing their own empire.

Elena Perminova, Ulyana Sergeenko, Vika Gazinskaya and Miroslava Duma were the four ladies who attracted media’s attention due to their wealth and fashion influence. While Ulyana Sergeenko and Vika Gazinskaya established their fame by their designing talent and their brand, Elena Perminova and Miroslava Duma chose to appear in front of camera showing their fashion taste during fashion weeks.

In addition the Russian riches were hunger for fashion because they had prohibited contacting “the world outside” for 70 years. Fashion brand noticed the business opportunity, which caused the phenomenon that Jean Paul Gaultier, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Miu Miu and Donna Karen crowd into Russia to share the profitable market.

Dior used to hold its first fashion show in Russia in 1959. After 55 years, the money trend finally brought the fashion house back to Russia holding its second show copied from the 2013 A/W Paris fashion show. It appears that more and more Russian afforded luxury goods, Russia would soon became the next China with money and influence to fashion industry.««

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