巴黎2012秋冬女裝報導之二: Mugler向大師致敬 Dries van Noten龍飛鳳舞
Paris FW2012 Women’s Collections: Reinventing Staple Looks


一向走硬派龐克路線的Limi Yamamoto,本季在Limi Feu宣示:「我也是很有女人味的!」從50年代束腰裙裝與白襯衫的搭配,滿布真珠,裙襬柔軟飄逸的30年代Flapper Style,到維多利亞式的鄉村洋裝與19世紀初的「睡衣式」裙裝,可說是集古今女性經典於一身;繫帶、柔褶與娃娃鞋等細節也盡顯俏麗。Limi Yamamoto所擅長的中性元素也沒有缺席,搭配大鈕扣的繭形大衣與解構褲裝而成的洋裝,都有著男孩般的俏皮。

Limi Feu本季加入了不同時代的女性風格。

Limi Feu本季加入了不同時代的女性風格。

Rue du Mail設計師Martine Sitbon表示她本季同時探索了女人堅強與柔弱的一面。以代表女性獨立的運動裝為基底,Martine Sitbon一方面使用了毛圈呢和大量柔滑絲質,及經典鉛筆裙與拉格蘭袖呈現柔媚氣息,令一方面粗線針織與鏤空圖案則如鍊甲一般強悍,色調也在反差強烈的黑白及浪漫的紅、橘、紫色間來回跳躍。設計師Marco Zanini在Rochas則以陶瓷藝術家Wilhelm Kage的作品為靈感,印花在青花、赭紅、銘黃與寶藍間交相爭輝;大量使用的綢緞,則散發琺瑯瓷般的艷麗光澤,在秀末的幾套禮服上尤其出彩。與之相對的則有繭形大衣與落肩剪裁毛衣,加上褶裙與曳地喇叭褲,展現70年代復古風格。««

Rue du Mail(左)和Rochas(右)雙雙玩味兩面元素。

Rue du Mail(左)和Rochas(右)雙雙玩味兩面元素。

»»Dries van Noten continued to draw inspiration from artworks, turning his head eastward this time, the designer went through the archives of the V&A museum for Japanese, Chinese and Korean prints. The vivid patterns were not only put on fluid silk dresses but impeccably tailored jackets, the combination between antique embroidery and sturdy flannel and khaki was particularly striking.

Gareth Pugh cut out all the light effects of previous seasons and toned down the collection accordingly. While carrying over the silhouettes of last season, the designer softened the fabrics considerably to enhance wearability, the details were themed around birds of prey with touches of humor such as the show opening cockscomb.

Damir Doma combined the medieval with the contemporary, transforming plate armors into suede vests and chain mails into cosy knits. But the highlights of the show were the sharply tailored pieces, which were played to perfection with patches of leather and fur.

Nicola Formichetti turned to Mugler’s archive for inspiration and sent out some classic silhouettes, incorporating exaggerated yet rounded shoulders and nipped waists, while the reptile prints and sharp finishing combined for an insect like effect. The show ended on deconstructed dresses more akin to Nicola Formichetti but the organza hats still spoke of Thierry Mugler’s style.

Limi Yamamoto turned to her feminine side, combining the 50s hourglass silhouette, 30s Flapper Style and 19th century dresses, the details were also for more girly than usual. The more boyish style of Limi Feu was still present, which were evident in some of the coats and trousers turned into dresses.

Martine Sitbon Rue du Mail played with the binary characteristics of women, using bouclé tweed on a sportswear inspired collection. Marco Zanini drew inspiration from pottery artist Wilhelm Kage at Rochas, creating some of the most intriguing prints, which the designer used on delicate silk dresses.««

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