巴黎2012秋冬女裝報導之五: Comme des Garçons紙雕娃娃 Jean Paul Gaultier塗鴉紐約
Paris FW2012 Women’s Collections: The Return of Structure


一輪明月高掛在Viktor & Rolf本季的秀場,模特兒們也化身狼人出場,全場不斷以解放動物野性。如果說以皮草裝飾邊緣的黑色套裝,及毛皮印花的絲質連身褲裝,還未「變身」完全;那麼一身以切割手法完成的皮草大衣,絕對是一場惡鬥後的倖存者;身著透明雪紡洋裝的模特兒,則更像恐怖片中在夢中慘遭吸血的受害者。定睛一看,獸毛蕾絲剪接成了黑色小洋裝的形狀,與觀眾大開玩笑,兩位設計師的幽默創意無限。

Viktor & Rolf推出狼人主題秀。

Viktor & Rolf推出狼人主題秀。

Loewe本季也主打美式懷舊風,以自家引以為傲的皮革詮釋校園與戰地風情。大學必備的棒球外套以反皮與水牛皮拼接展現帥氣;同樣由皮革製成的長大衣,則擷取軍服的經典口袋元素;但細節其實以「浮雕」手法完成,欺騙觀眾的眼睛;而粉紅皮草大衣與New Look剪裁外套等女性元素,則軟化了全系列稍顯硬派的氛圍。««

Loewe以硬派與柔美展現別樣懷舊風格。

Loewe以硬派與柔美展現別樣懷舊風格。

»»“The future’s in two dimensions !” said Rei Kawakubo after the Comme des Garçons show. The collection did indeed live up to her words, the bloated suits, coats and dresses appear to be reliefs out of a flat surface, making it one of the most visually striking collections of the season.

Haider Ackermann retrained his draping and wrapping, which is almost second nature to him, and went for a more structured collection, the suit jackets, whether long, cropped or tucked, created a slender and elegant silhouette, which combined with the designers mastery of colors and sensuous silk spoke of a romantic decadence.

Vivienne Westwood went between the medieval and the future, blending monastic robes and pirate attires with suit jackets with geometric suit jackets. The designer’s staple tartan check and leggings, made the collection look somewhat like a punk DIY collection through time and space.

Junya Watanabe reached towards his own menswear for inspiration, deconstructing trad men’s attire, checked flannel suits, olive trench coats and melton overcoats into capes and dresses, whereas the latter part of the show incorporated rose dévoréd shifts and cloaks to soften the menswear vibe.

Jean Paul Gaultier made his very own rendition of New York street style. Elegant evening dresses were sprayed with graffiti, the Manhattan messenger look was recreated in black leather, while fluorescent colored fur was added for a sense of luxury.

The full moon at Viktor & Rolf transformed the models into werewolves, while the fur trimming represented the early stages of transformation, the cut up fur coats looked like the aftermath of a severe dogfight. The transparent chiffon dresses on the other hand were more akin to the victims in classical horror movies.

Loewe created a Americana collection in full leather. A varsity jacket was patched in buffalo leather and suede, while the military jacket, also done in leather, had faux pocket finishes as a tongue in cheek trick. Pink fur coats and a New Look cut jacket added a more feminine touch, saving the collection from looking like Schutzstaffel uniforms.««

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