巴黎2014秋冬女裝報導之三:Lanvin浪漫流蘇飛舞 Balenciaga針織百變
Paris AW 2014 Woman’s Collection: The Romanticism in Lanvin Went On


Carven 2014秋冬回歸1940復古。

Carven 2014秋冬回歸1940復古。

Nina Ricci 2014 秋冬以優雅閒適為設計主調,並將系列女裝,打造成都會女子的一日所需。如系列套裝與鉛筆裙裝,作為日常工作服。高領洋裝與披肩式大衣的組合,或是針織上衣與束口皮褲的搭配,展現假日穿著的舒適寫意。至於蕾絲與緹花面料洋裝,則適合夜晚的晚宴約會,讓女人每一天都能時尚以對。創辦人退出,改由Sébastian Meunier、Mirjam van den Akker 與Patrick van Ommeslaeghe三位設計師主導的Ann Demeulemeester,本季女裝打安全牌,除了運用品牌偏愛的純黑色調,輪廓上也維持寬鬆長上衣搭配貼身下身的概念,並在層疊的混搭之外,小心翼翼的融入抓皺、扭轉、打結等裝飾手法,提升設計內涵。

左:Ann Demeulemeester 2014秋冬,以扭轉手法增加服裝設計感;中、右:Nina Ricci 2014 秋冬凸顯女性優雅。

左:Ann Demeulemeester 2014秋冬,以扭轉手法增加服裝設計感;中、右:Nina Ricci 2014 秋冬凸顯女性優雅。

迎來新任設計師Julien Dossena的Paco Rabanne,2014秋冬女裝將運動風與品牌經典的科技材質運用融為一體,包含串珠與扣環組成的網狀球衣,以及拉鍊開襟上衣與金屬開衩裙的組合等。但最受注目的,是幾何圖紋的摩登胸甲與襯衫的搭配,具防禦力的同時,又不失時尚感,別具巧思。印度設計師品牌Manish Arora 2014秋冬女裝則表現出甜死人不償命的態度,從繽紛的糖果色澤,蛋糕、冰淇淋、餅乾等印花,再到帽飾上如棉花糖一般的絨球,實在是甜滋滋。不只如此,設計師還混入了民族元素,如祕魯人的繡珠裙、和服腰封等,秀末的一系列印花洋裝,更像極了台灣的客家花布,非常有趣。 ««

左:Manish Arora 2014秋冬讓客家花布躍上舞台;中、右:Paco Rabanne 2014秋冬結合運動風與各式有趣材質。

左:Manish Arora 2014秋冬讓客家花布躍上舞台;中、右:Paco Rabanne 2014秋冬結合運動風與各式有趣材質。

 »»For Balenciaga 2014 AW womenswear, Alexander Wang delivered a series of knitting wear. The Polyester shirts, cocoon jacket and sporty style clothes gave depth to the collection. And also showed that the designer has already grabbed the spirit of the fashion house. Lanvin gave a diverse collection this season. Mainly used black and grey, the designer also adopted extravagant accessories and tassels to decorate clothes.

Balmain took its audience to a safari in this collection. Mixed with rounded collar shirts, biker jackets to show the coolness. Olivier Rousteing put a huge degree of animal printings in the design. Rick Owens presented another surprising show who hired normal people to be the model. As for the design, the designer provide different silhouette for different shapes.

Carven took us back to the 40s uniform style. The knitting skirts were printed with leopard patterns to add more cuteness. Nina Ricci designed a series of modern collection for the customers. The black dresses mixed with different tailoring presented elegant styles. Paco Rabanne combined sporty style with tech fabrication. Manish Arora put sweetness into the design and added various cultural printings.  ««

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