巴黎2014秋冬男裝報導之五:復古主導T台 人物懷想主題日
Paris 2014AW Men’s Collection: Remember the Significant Idols


Paul Smith本日在瀰漫音樂符號與民俗花紋中,緬懷曾在台上露出私處被警方逮捕、沈迷於迷幻藥和性愛的的搖滾詩人Jim Morrison。適逢27歲英年早逝樂手的70大壽冥誕,設計師在舒適隨性的輪廓之中,找到紀念偶像的標誌,如寬鬆長褲、縮口褲、漏斗頸上衣和長版背心罩衫等,男士們的放鬆模式延伸至波斯地毯花紋的休閒鞋款,從頭舒適到腳底。

搖滾詩人Jim Morrison成為Paul Smith 2014秋冬男裝靈感繆思。

搖滾詩人Jim Morrison成為Paul Smith 2014秋冬男裝靈感繆思。

繼大鬍子Walter Van Beirendonck之後,Umit Benan成為第二位在秀場大聲宣告反對種族歧視主張的設計師。本季系列以首位登上美國職棒大聯盟的非裔美國球員Jackie Robinson為靈感繆思,不僅將伸展台轉變為棒球場,開場模特兒還紛紛以棒球帽遮臉,耳邊響起Martin Luther King最知名的「I have a dream」講詞。衣服設計將大家拉回美國40年代主題,二次大戰後百廢待興的工作氛圍,穿插棒球夾克和「B」標誌的小裝飾。設計師本人在最後謝幕舉出「No To Racism」標語,堪稱土耳其設計師人權代表。

棒球味濃厚的Umit Benan 2014秋冬男裝,紀念第一位登上大聯盟的非裔美國球員Jackie Robinson。

棒球味濃厚的Umit Benan 2014秋冬男裝,紀念第一位登上大聯盟的非裔美國球員Jackie Robinson。

別人有運動員、搖滾樂手當作偶像,山本耀司為Addidas設計的Y-3則取60年代日本漫畫超級英雄們作為崇拜目標,但顯然設計師不是要設計緊身制服,而是裝扮英雄們在平日生活的時尚樣貌,將原本運動導向的風格帶往稍微休閒著裝的樣貌,霓虹條紋襯衫和運動背心拼接長西裝都是焦點。今年大老遠從紐約到巴黎辦秀,Y-3並未特別說明原因,但媒體猜測或許是山本耀司同名品牌大本營在巴黎,基於工作方便,才一口氣將所有精彩設計帶给法國粉絲欣賞。

Y-3 2014秋冬男裝賦予運動系列漫畫點綴的正式著裝感。

Y-3 2014秋冬男裝賦予運動系列漫畫點綴的正式著裝感。

Balenciaga 2014秋冬男裝還是由Alexander Wang 指導的設計團隊出品,雖然大仁哥的粉絲恐怕會小小失望,但依照Alexander Wang美學監督的系列仍有可觀之處,拉直拘謹不苟的線條,再加添高領設計和拉鍊式皮革大衣,略帶有回味過往的保守意味。««

Balenciaga 2014秋冬男裝在Alexander Wang美學指導下,走回保守路線。

Balenciaga 2014秋冬男裝在Alexander Wang美學指導下,走回保守路線。

»»On the last day of the fall and winter men’s fashion week, designers paid tribute to the old time memorable glamour and their favorite idols via garments. Lanvin’s 125 anniversary menswear collection seemed to adopt Hedi Slimane’s grunge and Teddy Boys style showing “classic, wild and athletic” with Lanvin’s signature fluent cut and talent on colors and proportion.

Saint Laurent kept empowing Hedi Slimane to dress up men’s with his music passion. The iconic slim rockers were decorated some of shinning spot on their blazers. The designer also invited several musicians to sit on the front row, including Nicolas Godin, Juliette Gréco and G-Dragon of BIGBANG.

Thom Browne told story about animals and leaves in forest by many cute animal-head headpiece and leaf pattern on oversize silhouette garment. His creativity was always so crazy that attracted fans to fall into his fashion trap. For the first time the show moved from New York to Paris, sporty Y-3 instilled more formal looks and detailed design into the brand, which inspired by comic book’s superheroes. Balenciaga under Alexander Wang’s direction showcased the all black aesthetic with various horse hair and leather materials.

The other two designers remembered their idols were Paul Smith and Umit Benan. As Paul Smith transformed Jim Morrison’s Psychedelic rock spirit into the relaxing collection, Umit Benan pulled all the baseball jackets, jerseys design to mark the outstanding achievement of the first Africa-American baseball player Jackie Robinson.««

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