巴黎2015春夏女裝報導之九:休閒舒適東方主義 高腰牛仔褲回歸
Paris 2015SS Women’s Collection Trend Report


Miu Miu 2015春夏提倡露肚高腰裙裝。

Miu Miu 2015春夏提倡露肚高腰裙裝。

»»巴黎2015春夏女裝週隨著Louis Vuitton的發表而進入尾聲。這場在新開幕的LVMH藝術基金會舉辦的春夏大秀,將丹寧面料再度推上女裝伸展台,正好說明了牛仔布的強勢回歸。輪廓比例的部分,原本被視為老氣的高腰單品,反而讓巴黎設計師簇擁。長版上衣造型所營造的隨興、自在風格,則解決了現代人舒適但時尚的穿衣需求。另外,東方元素與大口袋成為本季兩大裝飾元素,前著滿足了設計師的異國想像,讓東西文化激盪出最有型的春夏服裝。後者則以實穿性取勝,說明了機能服裝也能時尚現身。

Trend 1  丹寧布料大流行  從街頭步上伸展台
丹寧布料風潮的回歸,從男性時裝伸展台,延續到了巴黎2015春夏女裝周。Louis Vuitton以剪裁俐落、不經水洗的牛仔褲,搭配上正式西裝外套,或是繁複面料拼接的圓領上衣,詮釋設計師極具未來感的時尚想像。Kenzo以水藍色丹寧布,設計成寬大翻領大衣與喇叭褲,抽象呼應設計師主張的愛地球理想。Chloé推出寬大休閒的牛仔褲裝,或是讓飄逸燈籠袖上衣搭配牛仔短褲,為品牌一貫堅持的柔美主張,注入率性的街頭氣息。Sonia Rykiel本季強調條紋主題,但混搭牛仔吊帶褲、牛仔裙單品,豐富造型的可能。而Jean Paul Gaultier告別成衣市場的春夏女裝大作,則將丹寧主題融入足球想像,並以繁複的亮片、水鑽裝飾,呈現丹寧華麗的一面。
Trend 1   Denim Wave From Sidewalk to the Catwalk
The denim trend this year can be seen from the menswear collections all the way the current Paris Fashion Week shows. Louis Vuitton paired dark un-washed jeans with tailored suit jackets. Kenzo used oversized blue denim shirts , and Chloé also brought oversized denim looks down the runway. At Jean Paul Gaultier’s farwell show, we see the brighter, blinger side of denim with sequins and crystal embellishments.

同樣的丹寧布料,設計師詮釋出截然不同的風格。(由左至右:Louis Vuitton、Kenzo、Chloé)

同樣的丹寧布料,設計師詮釋出截然不同的風格。(由左至右:Louis Vuitton、Kenzo、Chloé)

Trend 2  復古高腰回歸  時尚輪迴又一例
也不知是不是互有呼應,隨著迷你裙風潮讓裙襬逐漸上縮,腰線也跟著被拉高,在提倡華麗搖滾風格的Saint Laurent,以及幹練性感的Mugler,都可以輕易找出高腰迷你裙造型。Miu Miu則提倡高腰鉛筆裙搭配短版上衣的露肚裝概念,無論是富含荷葉邊的短版襯衫,或是格紋小可愛,皆混雜了甜美與性感,呼應設計師所要表達「外表甜美,內心卻有黑暗面」的女子形象。

高腰迷你裙與鉛筆裙,成為2015春夏的時尚輪廓。(由左至右:Saint Laurent、Mugler、Miu Miu)

高腰迷你裙與鉛筆裙,成為2015春夏的時尚輪廓。(由左至右:Saint Laurent、Mugler、Miu Miu)

不僅如此,就連長褲也迎合了這波高腰風潮,如Dior就透過印有復古碎花的繭形夾克,與高腰長褲搭配,來詮釋本季主張的摩登宮廷風。取材中世紀馬甲的Givenchy,則讓貼身的高腰皮褲,搭配上繫帶上衣與覆滿金屬扣環的拚色大衣。Balmain將高腰喇叭褲,搭配小可愛或平口上衣,呈現幹練性感的都會女子風情。Elie Saab選擇以海洋為題材,為高腰褲裝的腰際處,拼接上通透面料,詮釋魚鰓想像。Loewe則將寬鬆的高腰皮褲,搭配上覆滿皺褶的繭型上衣,凸顯品牌的皮革工藝,也反映了新任設計師Jonathan Anderson的獨到時尚美學。
Trend 2    High-Waist Comeback 
The high-waist retro look was the perfect look for the Glam Rock look at Saint Laurent, sexy and modern at Mugler. While at Miu Miu, high-waist pencil skirts were paired with cropped tops to reveal the midriff, a mixture of dainty and flirty, which embodies the Miu Miu girl perfectly. And not only have waistlines gone up in skirts, Dior brought out retro high-waisted jeans with floral shirts, a modern take on the court style, while the high-waisted designs at Givenchy reminded us of medieval corsets. Balmain gave us bell-bottom pants put together with tube tops, a perfect look for the modern city women.

巴黎2015春夏女裝,高腰褲無所不在。(由左至右:Dior、Givenchy、Balmain)

巴黎2015春夏女裝,高腰褲無所不在。(由左至右:Dior、Givenchy、Balmain)

Trend 3  舒適時尚發燒  長版上衣營造休閒輪廓
至於本季巴黎時裝周強勢流行的長版上衣輪廓,則影響自對舒適、休閒時尚風格的提倡。除了Hermès讓V領上衣搭配百褶裙,Stella McCartney 也祭出長版背心搭配開衩裙的針織套裝,讓忙碌的都會女子即使穿著簡單,也能很時尚。抱持同樣穿衣哲學的Céline,除推出飾以流蘇的象牙白背心搭配西裝褲,還有長版印花背心提供搭配替換。以拉菲爾前派畫作「歐菲莉亞」(Ophelia,1852)觸發靈感的Dries van Noten,選擇印有繁複印花的緞面布料,詮釋長版上衣造型,透露居家服的舒適氛圍,與Haider Ackermann的紫色褲裝與絲質罩袍,有異曲同工之妙。
Trend 3    Comfy and Casual Fashion
There were also a lot of long, flowing tops to go with the casual and sporty trend still going strong. At Hermès we see V-necked tops with pleated skirts, and Stella McCartney gave us long, comfy, knitwear vests with slitted skirts. Dries Van Noten inspired by the pre-Raphaelite classic painting Ophelia, used intricately designed fabrics on his flowing, soft designs, giving us a casual vibe, which could also be seen in Haider Ackermann’s purple pantsuits and silk robes.

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