巴黎2015秋冬男裝報導之六:裙搭褲層次穿搭 西裝剪裁年輕化
Paris 2015AW Men’s Collection Trend Report


西裝該怎麼穿,巴黎2015秋冬男裝周有新解讀。(左起Comme des Garçons、Lanvin、Thom Browne 2015秋冬男裝)

西裝該怎麼穿,巴黎2015秋冬男裝周有新解讀。(左起Comme des Garçons、Lanvin、Thom Browne 2015秋冬男裝)

»»大叔的居家睡褲、日常西裝look,看在年輕人眼裡會是怎樣的風格style,會想年紀到大叔等級時是這副德行?No,正值青春的少年不想如此,打算用他們喜愛的格調重新詮釋,而這正是巴黎2015秋冬男裝精髓所在。況且中性時尚當道,亦男亦女花美男衣裝依舊站在潮流尖端,但怕男人穿裙裝又太過頭,裙搭褲概念從米蘭發酵至巴黎,或者該說新秋冬男裝要打破傳統一板一眼,否則Rick Owens怎會祭出驚世駭俗的開襠褲。

Trend 1西裝不安分  運動、解構全出籠
前幾季運動休閒主題明顯,許多品牌往各類運動發想靈感,於是上半身西裝正規演出,下半身搭配的是休閒運動鞋,帶出青春活力,但巴黎2015秋冬男裝將腦筋動到西裝本身了,最明顯的非Dior Homme莫屬,設計師Kris van Assche從年輕人觀點解讀燕尾服,透過結構還有運動元素讓燕尾服改頭換面;Saint Laurent維持一貫搖滾音樂色彩,對窄版西裝癡迷到底。連Kris van Assche個人同名品牌主打休閒精神,也都跟進西裝變革,在傳統制式面料玩拼接花色。

將西裝變潮是本季巴黎男裝周重點之一。(左起Kris van Assche、Saint Laurent、Dior Homme 2015秋冬男裝)

將西裝變潮是本季巴黎男裝周重點之一。(左起Kris van Assche、Saint Laurent、Dior Homme 2015秋冬男裝)

向來另類的Thom Browne在西裝剪裁功力沒話說,秋冬營造黑執事色彩,但加入葬殯文化,讓男模戴黑色面紗,肅穆氣氛下透露男士優雅姿態,即便點綴可愛鯨魚圖樣,也因黑顯得莊重,連設計師都說這是年輕男子的自信衣著。另外,設計師川久保玲將Comme des Garçons男裝解構到位,不對稱剪裁變化讓視覺看起來有如穿錯鈕扣假想,跳脫我們對服裝正統見解。玩猛的Umit Benan乾脆讓男人沉浸在寒冷漁村景象,穿西裝毛呢的一日漁夫體驗。Givenchy和Dries van Noten的西裝變革則從宗教與異國風情著手,五花八門的著裝打扮,果然是新世代訴求。
Trend 1  Deconstructing the Suit 
The past few seasons have seen the trend of sportswear and, the pairing of sneakers with formal wear has become more acceptable. The trend has become more evident than ever at Dior Homme’s Fall Winter collection; Saint Laurent stays true to the skinny fit suit. Thom Browne is a master of tailoring skills evident in his dark, mourning collection with a touch of elegance. Comme des Garçons being the the deconstrctionist as always gave us the expected asymmetrical cuts. Givenchy and Dries van Noten all started off from the tailored suit and adding exotic and religious elements, making something for everyone.

無論在用料取財或大解構,為2015秋冬男裝帶來新氣象。(左起Thom Browne、Comme des Garçons、Dries van Noten 2015秋冬男裝)

無論在用料取財或大解構,為2015秋冬男裝帶來新氣象。(左起Thom Browne、Comme des Garçons、Dries van Noten 2015秋冬男裝)

Trend 2 oversize大衣  上窄下寬梯形結構明顯
面對百百款西裝設計,緊盯時裝周的你必觀察到這季大衣oversize充斥,及小腿肚的長大衣比比皆是,Raf Simons塗鴉實驗室長袍和刻意裸露車線的超oversize背心大衣、Paul Smith近乎上世紀80年代權力肩線的寬袍大衣,可以讓男人多塞幾件衣服好保暖,Dior Homme變革燕尾服之餘,更不忘oversize的重要性。其他如Wooyoungmi和Balenciaga等皆有類似之作,而且他們不約而同選擇極簡剪裁,純粹用結構取勝。

Oversize長大衣是2015秋冬男裝基本配備。(左為Dior Homme,中與右為Raf Simons 2015秋冬男裝)

Oversize長大衣是2015秋冬男裝基本配備。(左為Dior Homme,中與右為Raf Simons 2015秋冬男裝)

同時也因年少男孩隨興自我的穿衣態度,往往內罩襯衫T恤,外搭一款合宜西裝外套,便能對應大小場合。故秋冬系列泰半延伸出各式大衣外套版型,就結構性來說,先前流行loosing線條,連帶西裝外套都走寬寬鬆鬆路線,不過2015秋冬傾向箱型以致上窄下寬的梯型剪裁,再配合眾家設計師的藝術觀點,融入幾何拼接或材質選擇,變化多端。舉例Valentino、Damir Doma、Lanvin和Givenchy等都是好證明。
Trend 2  The Oversized Coat
The length and fit of the coat this season was definitely on the larger size, with hemlines going all the way down to mid-calf. Raf Simons had white coats reminiscent of lab coat, and oversized vests. Paul Smith power dressed his men in oversized coats with exaggerated shoulders. Dior Homme also played with volume and this trendy silhouette was seen at Wooyoungmi and Balenciaga, too. Besides being oversized, there was a looser, more flowing silhouette see on stage, giving airs of casual elegance that was seen at Valentino, Damir Doma, Lanvin and Givenchy.

基本大衣外套版型輪廓傾向箱型與梯型剪裁。(左起Givenchy、Valentino與Dior Homme 2015秋冬系列)

基本大衣外套版型輪廓傾向箱型與梯型剪裁。(左起Givenchy、Valentino與Dior Homme 2015秋冬系列)


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