年底人事動盪又一波 A&F猛男文化不再吸睛
Year End Big Moves in Fashion


Frida Giannini(左)與Patrizio di Marco(右)雙雙辭去Gucci職務。

Frida Giannini(左)與Patrizio di Marco(右)雙雙辭去Gucci職務。

»»就在2014即將進入尾聲的時刻,時尚圈又掀起一波人事大變動,最讓人吃驚的,莫過於Frida Giannini與Patrizio di Marco雙雙離職,分別辭去Gucci創意總監以及CEO職務,為母公司Kering集團注入大變數,同時也讓眾家時尚媒體議論紛紛品牌走向。但這件時尚大件事,卻不過是近期人事變動相關新聞的冰山一角罷了。

Hudson’s Bay集團就宣布,挖角顧問公司Storch Advisors的主席兼CEO Gerald Jerry Storch,來擔任集團新任CEO。原任CEO Richard Baker,則維持老闆與執行主席的身分。明年1月正式上任後,Storch將掌管集團旗下所有事業,包含精品百貨Hudson’s Bay、Lord & Taylor、Saks Fifth Avenue等,首要任務,就是加強企業體之間的連結、拓展銷售據點,以及投資商店的基礎建設。至於卸下CEO職務的Richard Baker,將企業營運的事物,轉交給Storch之後,自己則專注於集團的國際發展,還有集團旗下房地產的利用,並尋求更多整合與併購的可能,讓Hudson’s Bay集團能進一步成長為國際性的企業規模。

Gerald Jerry Storch(右)接下Hudson’s Bay集團CEO一職,Richard Baker(左)則維持集團統治者與執行主席身分。

Gerald Jerry Storch(右)接下Hudson’s Bay集團CEO一職,Richard Baker(左)則維持集團統治者與執行主席身分。

因歧視言論,導致美國運動休閒服飾品牌Abercrombie & Fitch,銷售業績大受影響的品牌CEO Mike Jeffries,終於宣布卸任。CEO一職將由Arthur Martinez暫代,並已經找來專業的獵人頭公司,為A&F尋找合適的繼位人選。儘管品牌發展仍壟罩在一片陰霾之中,但投資者似乎十分樂見這一轉變,而Mike Jeffries卸任消息傳出,公司股價馬上成長6.2%,來到每股27.99美金。讓人期望未來的執行者,能讓這個擅長營造話題的品牌,跳脫猛男與辣妹的慣常形象手法,而能夠以新穎的風格,重新回到年輕消費者的懷抱。

Mike Jeffries自Abercrombie & Fitch CEO一職退休。

Mike Jeffries自Abercrombie & Fitch CEO一職退休。

德國品牌Escada則是迎來新任CEO,由Tamara Mellon品牌前任CEO Glenn McMahon,接替上個月離職的Bruno Sälzer。經驗豐富的Glenn McMahon,曾經在Donna Karan、Giorgio Armani、Dolce & Gabbana等品牌工作,於Tamara Mellon擔任CEO期間,更將品牌電子商務做得有聲有色,因此獲得Escada青睞。儘管Glenn McMahon明年1月才會上任,但Escada內部高層卻深具信心。品牌主席兼常務董事Megha Mittal不僅表示,Glenn McMahon是個理想人選,還期待在他的領導下,Escada能逐漸茁壯,成為時尚中心品牌,進一步朝國際發展。

Escada在新任CEO帶領下,能否有所成長?(圖為Escada 2014秋冬廣告)

Escada在新任CEO帶領下,能否有所成長?(圖為Escada 2014秋冬廣告)

設計師部分,加拿大品牌Ports 1961,繼7月找來Milan Vukmirovic擔任品牌男裝創意總監。近期,又宣布挖角前Stella McCartney首席設計師Natasa Cagalj,接替Fiona Cibani擔任女裝創意總監。中央聖馬丁畢業的Natasa Cagalj,曾於Cerruti Arte、Lanvin等品牌工作,在Lanvin期間,還晉升設計師Alber Elbaz的左右手,慢慢地欲往高處爬,2005年跳槽Stella McCartney擔任首席設計師。以獨特美學與設計才能,迅速竄起的她,將會為Ports 1961注入什麼新元素,就待明年2月的米蘭秋冬時裝周見真章。

Ports 1961 2015春夏女裝。

Ports 1961 2015春夏女裝。

同樣提拔不為人熟知設計師的,還有Aeffe集團旗下配件品牌Pollini,找來Erminio Cerbone擔任品牌創意總監,接替Nicholas Kirkwood原本的職位,預計2015秋冬發布首次的合作系列。儘管不是媒體寵兒,Erminio Cerbone卻是身經百戰。那不勒斯美術學院(Accademia delle Belle Arti in Naples)畢業的他,先後為Prada、Jil Sander與Dolce & Gabbana等品牌工作。獨挑大樑後,會為Pollini注入怎樣的流行元素,就讓我們拭目以待。««

Pollini2014秋冬最新形象照。

Pollini2014秋冬最新形象照。

»»Hudson’s Bay Company has recently announced the appointment of Gerald Storch as CEO, effective January 6, 2015. Storch will be responsible for Hudson’s Bay, Lord & Taylor, Saks Fifth Avenue, Saks OFF 5TH, Home Outfitters and HBC Digital. Richard Baker will continue as Governor and Executive Chairman and together he and Storch will compose the Office of the Chairman. 

Abercrombie & Fitch’s longtime and controversial CEO Michael Jeffries is also retiring, as the once-hip teen clothing chain’s sales decline. Jeffries made his mark by exclusionary marketing, packing the chain’s stores with young, attractive workers and models acting as greeters. However, Abercrombie & Fitch has been looking for a new direction in their strategy as its sales have weakened and teens have chosen to shop elsewhere. 

Escada has named Glenn McMahon, who was most recently CEO at Tamara Mellon, as their new CEO. In his 25-year career in the luxury and women’s wear industry, McMahon also served as president at Dolce & Gabbana USA, vice president of Giorgio Armani USA and Donna Karan, as well as president of Ellen Tracy.  

Ports 1961 has a new creative director in charge of women’s wear. Natasa Cagalj, has worked with Nino Cerruti and Peter Speliopoulos when he was appointed creative director of Cerruti Arte in Paris. She was then Alber Elbaz’s right-hand designer at Lanvin until she moved in 2005 to Stella McCartney, where she was head of design until 2012. 

Pollini also has a new hire, Cerbone who succeeds Nicholas Kirkwood, and his first collection for the Italian label will show for fall-winter 2015. Cerbone has worked for brands including Prada, Jil Sander, under creative director Raf Simons, and Dolce & Gabbana. Pollini has expressed that they have high hopes that Cerbone will successfully express the ‘made in Italy’ philosophy which has always inspired and defined Pollini.««

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