拉斐爾前派 浪漫風情席捲時尚圈
Pre-Raphaelites’ Romance in Fashion


沃特豪斯的名作「夏洛特少女」(The Lady of Shalott, 1888)則是源自英國詩人阿弗德‧田納森(Alfred Tennyson)的作品。這詩作描述了亞瑟王時代,這名少女被魔法禁錮在古堡中卻始終嚮往自由,後來雖掙脫束縛,但生命也走到盡頭。這幅畫的構圖與氣氛也被英國時尚攝影師John Swannell捕捉,以鏡頭賦予這畫與故事新生命。

John Swannell在1993年以攝影在英國湖區,重現沃特豪斯的「夏洛特少女」。

John Swannell在1993年以攝影在英國湖區,重現沃特豪斯的「夏洛特少女」。

詩意形象歷久不衰
這畫派詩意的女性形象不僅出現在攝影中,畫面裡女性身上穿著的雪紡垂墜洋裝、絲絨禮服或斗篷、金屬飾環與裝飾繫帶,也成了時尚界的靈感來源。除了2012年秋冬Gucci的女裝系列以印花絲絨和雪紡詮釋外,Alexander McQueen過往的作品中裡也結合了哥德風格與自然意象,剪裁戲劇性的前拉斐爾式服裝,像是2006年秋冬秀場上的Kate Moss全景式投影,及同時以高科技與雪紡服裝,建構如夢似幻的氛圍。

Alexander McQueen的2006年秋冬系列也有拉斐爾前派的奇幻浪漫。

Alexander McQueen的2006年秋冬系列也有拉斐爾前派的奇幻浪漫。

擅長雪紡的Alberta Ferretti,作品裡也常有拉斐爾前派的風格,像是其副牌Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti的2009年春夏系列,也以此畫派的後期畫家Lawrence Alma-Tadema(1836 -1912)的作品為靈感,以多彩的雪紡點綴些許金色裝飾,創作出清新的女性風采。

Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti的2009年春夏系列以畫家Lawrence Alma-Tadema為靈感。

Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti的2009年春夏系列以畫家Lawrence Alma-Tadema為靈感。

這世紀婚禮中凱特王妃身穿Sarah Burton設計的 Alexander McQueen婚紗,略帶復古的頭紗與蕾絲設計,也有沃特豪斯筆下人物的影子。而英國地下流行樂團 Florence + the Machine的主唱Florence Welch,也常以一頭紅髮詮釋畫派領導人羅賽蒂筆下的古典美人,專輯封面也常令人聯想到拉斐爾前派憂鬱的女性形象。««

凱特王妃的結婚禮服與Florence Welch的專輯封面都有拉斐爾前派的影子。

凱特王妃的結婚禮服與Florence Welch的專輯封面都有拉斐爾前派的影子。

»»Though the Pre-Raphaelites was just a minor school in art history, those painters has created a series of ideological romantic female images which play a part in contemporary fashion. Founded by Dante Gabriel Rossetti, William Holman Hunt and John Everett Millais in Britannia in 1848, the aim of this Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood was to rebel against the stiff Academy school and to restore the truth of beauty which painters in the middle age, before Raphael, focused on. However, their rebellion didn’t cause dramatic revelation as the Impressionism did later in France. Because each painter had his own interpretation of the ideal beauty, this school ended quickly within a decade.

But the ideal females they created prevailed and the looks even mixed with bohemianism and hippie style in 1960s, turning into boho-chic in fashion world. Rossetti’s Prosperine and Beata Beatrix are ancient stories, presenting his signature red-haired heroines in darkish green velvet robes which become the inspiration for Gucci’s 2012 autumn collection for womenswear and is imitated by British singer, Florence Welch on stages. Millais’s Ophelia was also reinterpreted by famous fashion photographer Paolo Roversi in his installation for Mihara Yasuhiro’s 2011 collection. Also the paintings by the brotherhood’s follower, John William Waterhouse, are also popular. His The Lady of Shalott appeared in British photographer John Swannell’s photo in 1993.

Not only photography manipulates this romantic style but also many fashion designers adopt this romanticism in their collection. Alexander McQueen was one of the adherents and blended this look with gothic elements in the autumn collection in 2006. Alberta Ferretti also manipulated chiffon to capture this look and her diffusion line Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti’s 2009 spring/summer collection was inspired by Lawrence Alma-Tadema, another painter with pre-Raphaelite style. ««

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