新星之都 拜訪倫敦場外新銳
Scouting New Talents out in London Fashion Week


Phoebe English 透明層次轉向服裝哲思
如果只看Phoebe English的本季秀照,我可能不會介紹她,一反她畢業後幾季略帶戲劇感的結構和珠飾細節,2013秋冬卻異常平靜,只有大量的紗質透明層次和及膝直筒輪廓,簡直陷入哲學家的沉默,而這的確也是她本季想探討的主題「看不見Sightlessness」──跳脫戲劇誇張的服飾語彙,從近乎隱形的細節讓製作者浮上檯面。

Phoebe English的2013秋冬系列。

Phoebe English的2013秋冬系列。

為貫徹這概念,Phoebe English從邀請卡就開始布局,由半透明描圖紙信封包裝輪胎皮卡片,時間地點得在光源照射下,才隱約可見;秀場木製骨架小屋,也呼應這原始的工業味;而她本季的主角服裝,則由大量漿挺的紗質棉布累積構成,攝影機閃光燈難以捕捉的曖昧透明感,在現場卻令人印象深刻,刻意不收邊處理,縫份、記號線、留長的線頭都成為另類嚴肅的裝飾,人體的輪廓若隱若現,但並非裸露的挑逗,而更像X光穿透的醫學解析。本季Phoebe English走向更內斂的風格,邁向思考型的藝術性服裝。

Phoebe English本季利用半透明棉布讓記號線等製作細節浮現。

Phoebe English本季利用半透明棉布讓記號線等製作細節浮現。

Ekaterina Kukhareva 復古花俏主婦顯趣味
然而時尚也不全然是服裝結構、織品等嚴肅的故事,Ekaterina Kukhareva轉換家庭主婦印象的幽默系列,以花不溜丟的實穿針織,讓我在穿梭在實驗氛圍濃厚的倫敦時裝周中,也能會心一笑。誰說主婦不能花俏?Ekaterina Kukhareva把家庭場景遷移到中東,濃烈的撞色花邊圖騰,渲染在及膝膝裙、貼身長洋裝、九分直筒褲裝上;桃紅、紫羅蘭色、郵差綠、褐色混織的圖紋,有新藝術William Morris的自然花卉的浪漫,也有混織出土耳其宮廷的繁複奢華。

Ekaterina Kukhareva的2013秋冬系列。

Ekaterina Kukhareva的2013秋冬系列。

而英國造型師Lara Jensen歡樂髮捲頭飾,更替這主婦之歌增添歡樂異國趣味。放大版的髮捲,有時鑲上假寶石,有時加長變成藝妓髮型,或者變成手拿包,讓Ekaterina Kukhareva本季的復古主婦在刻板印象中,玩出戲謔新花樣。雖然可能沒多少少婦會真的穿著如此高調做家事,但Ekaterina Kukhareva混著金蔥與綴珠的禮服系列,絕對能展現熟女華麗風情。

Lara Jensen替Ekaterina Kukhareva打造的誇張髮捲造型,有畫龍點睛之妙。

Lara Jensen替Ekaterina Kukhareva打造的誇張髮捲造型,有畫龍點睛之妙。

雖然看時裝秀很累,但照片影像所不能捕捉的「靈光」,讓眾多記者與時尚編輯們,就算腳踩時髦高跟鞋、揹著沉重的單眼相機,仍是願意在冷風中排隊,期待親身與設計師的作品們,有個精彩的相遇。««  


設計師小檔案:

Anna October
烏克蘭人,擁有設計與藝術學位,2010年開始自己的同名女裝品牌,並且定期參與基輔時裝周發表,最近幾季以簡約卻不失女人味的設計受到矚目。 

Phoebee English
2011年畢業於中央聖馬汀,畢業後隨即與Rose Easton合作成立品牌,她的作品曾在「Dazed and Confused」、「New York Times」、「i-D」等雜誌出現,是近年值得觀察的新銳設計師。 

Ekaterina Kukhareva
烏克蘭人,擁有聖馬汀設計學院織品學士學位,2010年成立品牌。主打高端針織市場,以豐富趣味色彩的女性形象為設計特色。


Jou-an(陳柔安)最近在想什麼:
這季的倫敦時裝周告別霓虹和花不溜丟的數位印花後,許多新一代的設計師皆有邁向另一階段,無論是May Kartntzou巧妙將印花貼合版型的創意,或是Christopher Kane以各種布料加工打造的份量感輪廓,眾多設計師的精采表現,讓我不禁想像時尚之都彼此間的排名競爭,現在位於巴黎之下的,究竟是米蘭、倫敦還是紐約?


»» Though there are lots of images of latest fashion shows online, visiting and watching catwalk shows in person is still the most efficient way to scout new talents.

When I first saw Anna October’s collection in the exhibition at Fashion Scout, I was only impressed by the special shimmering fabrics she collaborated with textile manufacturer in Leon. The cuttings were a bit to safe too be interesting. However, when her collection appeared on catwalk again, those shimmering fringes, metallic details made those dresses alive. While those garments preserved pure femininity, the special textiles added a touch of modern and tech-like imagination to her 2013 AW collection.

It is really hard to appreciate Phoebe English’s latest collection fully on photos. Her latest collection required you to observe “the maker’s” mark behind those clothing in person. Unfinished edges, seams which had used to be invisible on garments appear on the semi-transparent paper-like cotton, as another genre of decoration. Her concept, “sightlessness,” encouraged viewers to feel the delicate hidden knowledge about what they wear.

Attending Ekaterina Kukhareva’s show was indeed an enjoyable experience. Her imaginary themes would not be better presented without props to bring them out. This season, she manipulated her luxury knitting skills to subvert our imagination about housewives. Her lavish usage of geometric floral patterns perfectly combined the feature of William Morris’ design and the exotic graphic from middle-east. Those dramatic hair curler designed by Lara Jensen were gorgeous complements to the body-cone dresses and knee-high skirts, bringing more humorous touch to this season.  «« 

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