新藝術高第 魔幻寫實先驅
Antoni Gaudi Magic Realism in Fashion


對時裝,高第的有機自然線條亦對喜愛建築的時尚設計師來說,未嘗不是取材對象,之於設計學院學生而言,更是發揮創意的靈感殿堂。美國加州沙凡娜藝術學院(Savannah College of Art and Design)的學生Samantha Lazinski,就曾以高第新藝術裝飾手做細節,以鑄鐵、異材質鑲嵌拼接,發表一款高跟踝靴,迥異組合和高第建築有異曲同工之妙。2006年左右,英國Brighton大學的Camilla Spaven視高第建築下馬賽克工藝為繆思,發表以Trotamundos環遊世界為題的系列女裝,2010年香港理工大學舉辦的學生畢展中,亦有人祭出高第的建築線條為女裝結構打下前衛輪廓。種種跡象顯示設計學院的學生們對高第情有獨鍾。

左為Samantha Lazinski作品,右為2010年香港理工大學學生時裝畢業展。

左為Samantha Lazinski作品,右為2010年香港理工大學學生時裝畢業展。

之於時尚設計師,Aquilano.Rimondi的雙人設計師Tommaso Aquilano和Roberto Rimondi,最愛由建築結構發想每季女裝,2010春夏他們嘗試將高第和藝術家Monet結合,Monet的繪畫成了印花圖騰養分,高第不羈的結構型塑女裝蜿蜒立體面貌。Escada 2011春夏可說是集結眾藝術與異國文化流派,舉凡非洲民俗印花、日本和服剪裁與高第的建築作品,全被設計師來個大融爐示範。

Aquilano.Rimondi 2010春夏(左)線條師法高第建築,Escada 2011春夏(右)則是多方嘗試異國文化,將日本和服與高第創作全融合一起。

Aquilano.Rimondi 2010春夏(左)線條師法高第建築,Escada 2011春夏(右)則是多方嘗試異國文化,將日本和服與高第創作全融合一起。

時至2012春夏,Alexander McQueen祭出的服裝線條儘管沒有像高第線條般奔放,但藉由絲綢雪紡的編織細節,被時尚迷直拿來和聖家堂外牆嶙峋構造做一比擬。而在烏克蘭時裝周(Lviv Fashion Week)設計師Katerina Yalova乾脆拿高第的建築直接當作3D數位轉印,用最明顯的視覺效果搭配取材建築線條的女裝輪廓,將一代建築狂人再次於2013秋冬盡顯無遺。或許高第的建築設計影響力不像其他藝術家那麼絡繹不絕地備受時尚設計寵愛,但總那麼溫和地,像是細嚼慢嚥般,讓人難以忘懷。««

Alexander McQueen 2012春夏(左)與Katerina Yalova 2013秋冬(中與右)各在織品細節與印花,詮釋高第的新藝術概念。

Alexander McQueen 2012春夏(左)與Katerina Yalova 2013秋冬(中與右)各在織品細節與印花,詮釋高第的新藝術概念。

»» The treasure that architecture madman Antoni Gaudi left for the next generations was too much that it was impossible to ignore its contribute to the design and also the fashion world.

When he was 16, his father sent him to learn architecture design in Barcelona. However, his talent on design was not appreciated by his teachers so that he skipped classes to create unique design that didn’t restrict to the teaching in school. His teacher used to say either he was a genius or he was an insane.

Being single for entire life, Antoni Gaudi was able to focus on his design. His design concepts were influenced by Middle Age’s history, architect during 11th to 16th century and lots of different art. But his notable works like The Palau Güell were not created until he met Eusebi Güell. He supported him not only mentally but also financially. In 1900, Antoni Gaudi finally had opportunities to build his dream architecture such as La Pedrera and Casa Batllo. One of the great works, the Sagrada Familia, hasn’t finished even after he passed away in 1926.

However, his influence toward the modern architecture design was extraordinary huge. As OMC created furniture collection inspired by Antoni Gaudi‘s design furniture, Bram Geenen extracted the spirit of Antoni Gaudi’s work to create a collection of chairs. Boots created by student of Savannah College of Art and Design,Samantha Lazinski, and the womenswear from University of Brighton’s Camilla Spaven all admired the creativity of Antoni Gaudi.

Besides the 2010 S/S collection from Aquilano.Rimondi’s duo designersTommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi, Alexander McQueen’s 2012 S/S collection and Katerina Yalova’s 3D print design were another fabulous creation inspired by the legendary architect.««

 

推到Facebook臉書!把這篇文章貼到twitter分享到微博!手機版網站