時尚大風吹 Nigo也出走
Fashion Designers Shuffle


法國品牌Paco Rabanne女裝創意總監一職,同樣也是個讓人坐不住的職缺。2011年接下Paco Rabanne設計總監一職,隔年隨即自印度設計師Manish Arora手中,接下女裝創意總監重任的德國籍設計師Lydia Maurer,也在今年5月宣布離職,短命程度令人錯愕。而關於此事,品牌與設計師雙方顯低調,不願多做回應。讓設計師離職原因與品牌繼任人選一樣,至今仍是個謎。

近來時尚圈設計師人事異動頻繁。(左:Lydia Maurer、中圖右:Antonio Azzuolo、右:Sergio Daricello)

近來時尚圈設計師人事異動頻繁。(左:Lydia Maurer、中圖右:Antonio Azzuolo、右:Sergio Daricello)

此外,2011年被微風集團收購,由日籍設計師藤原喜章成立的義大利品牌Giuliano Fujiwara也傳出人事異動。2013春夏才正式為品牌效力,擔任創意總監的義大利設計師Sergio Daricello離職,改由Antonio Azzuolo繼位。這位自2008年成立設計師同名品牌義大利籍設計師,以其精練的剪裁與獨特的運動美學,廣受美國時尚圈推崇。而他為Giuliano Fujiwara首次祭出的作品:2014春夏男裝,便將正式的西裝輪廓注入運動基因,如襯衫、西裝外套與運動式Legging的搭配,以及圓領運動衫跟七分西裝褲的組合等。設計師還凸顯了品牌的日本美學基因,以和服輪廓設計上衣,呈現有趣的異國混搭風情。

Giuliano Fujiwara 2014春夏男裝。

Giuliano Fujiwara 2014春夏男裝。

而這波設計師出走潮影響下,許多事物因此蒙上一層不安,尤其是對品牌粉絲而言,設計風格的變化,讓人既期待又怕受傷害。但品牌若能藉機尋找到合適的繼任人選,發酵出Raf Simons之於Dior、Hedi Slimane之於Saint Laurent的化學變化,對品牌與消費者來說,都不失為美事一樁。««

»»The only thing unchanged is change, especially in the fashion industry. While Jason Wu becomes the creative director of Hugo Boss and Yusuke Takahashi is the new designer of Issey Miyake menswear, Burberry’s Roberto Menichetti, Nicolas Formichetti and Coach’s Reed Krakoff all leave their positions. And there are more.

It is surprising when we know that Nigo decides to sell his own brand A Bathing Ape to I.T Ltd and leaves the position. According to Nigo, the reason he leaves is to discover the new possibility before he becomes old. Therefore, now he focuses on the new brand Human Made that featured vintage clothings and the retail shop Cold Coffee with a slow but stable pace.

The founder and creative director of Issa London, Daniella Helayel, leaves the fashion house too. Since Kate Middleton’s Issa London engagement outfit expose, the sale increase dramatically, which make people wonder why she leave at this moment? Rumor has it that the conflict with Camilla Al Fayed causes her departure.

Paco Rabanne also sends two designers out in two years. After Indian designer Manish Arora leaves in 2012, German designer Lydia Maurer also chooses to leave this year. The reason of their departure is still an unknown question. Giuliano Fujiwara’s also changes designer from Sergio Daricello to Antonio Azzuolo. Although it seems like a nice beginning, the market acceptance is still waiting to be examined.««

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