時尚愛龐克 生生不渝
Fashion loves Punk


將龐克帶入高級時裝殿堂的佼佼者Jean Paul Gaultier,早期經典即將SM和龐克鉚釘混搭,因過於驚世駭俗,蔚為話題,其2011春夏高訂,設計師與眾模特兒大方戴上龐克刺蝟頭,向龐克精神致意,2013春夏向搖滾歌手致意系列,當中亦淡淡流露80年代後期的龐克風與現今搖滾巨星的尖錐鉚釘造型。

Jean Paul Gaultier 2011春夏高訂(左與中)與2013春夏(右)不時可見龐克元素。

Jean Paul Gaultier 2011春夏高訂(左與中)與2013春夏(右)不時可見龐克元素。

而經典龐克人物更是設計師最愛素材,Joe Strummer於1977年演唱時,身穿印有年份襯衫,Helmut Lang則在2003秋冬襯衫刻印上2004,兩者異曲同工之妙;經典龐克先鋒的Patti Smith在70年代末的DIY塗鴉也讓Ann Demeulemeester於2000春夏時,如法炮製。Junya Watanabe則在2006秋冬,詮釋一套針織條紋衫,整個型態輪廓簡直是John Lydon在1976年叱吒當紅的模樣,如初一致。遑論Paul Cook在70年代的英國旗幟裝,也被人拿來和Comme des Garçons 2006春夏圍裹英國旗迷你短裙相比拚。其實今年年初在英國即有大衛鮑伊的經典時裝展,現在又有紐約大都會博物館的龐克時尚展,在在顯示著經典當代歌手對時尚的影響之外,也佐證著音樂文化無論間接或直接,都對主流伸展台走向有所撼動,這股龐克與時尚的愛戀關係會一直持續下去。««

Jordan造型與Rodarte設計輪廓,被拿來相比,這可在紐約大都會博物館最新龐克時尚展一窺究竟。(左攝影Rex USA,右攝影David Sims,取材自〈Vogue〉2008年7月號)

Jordan造型與Rodarte設計輪廓,被拿來相比,這可在紐約大都會博物館最新龐克時尚展一窺究竟。(左攝影Rex USA,右攝影David Sims,取材自〈Vogue〉2008年7月號)

 


紐約大都會博物館PUNK: Chaos to Couture」展
時間:2013/03/09 ~ 2013/08/14
網址:http://www.metmuseum.org


»»Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York held a punk fashion show “PUNK: Chaos to Couture” on March 9, which gave us a glimpse of the hundreds of pieces of designers punk works. Punk started from music field as a sub-culture system and gradually jumped up to mainstream fashion.

From the punk godmother Vivienne Westwood, all the way named Comme des Garcons, Junya Watanabe, Alexander McQueen,  to the new designers Givenchy’s Ricardo Tisci, Gareth Pugh and Christopher Kane, are all crazy about punk. It is no doubt that punk is the one with close relationship with fashion. Almost no one can resist the fatal charm of it.

Punk culture originated from music in England and U.S. between 1974 and 1976. Notable band such as Ramones, Six Pistols and Patti Smith led the punk fashion by their stage costume, leather jacket, shabby jeans and T-shirts. Gradually the handmade costume and stylish print T-shirt became a hot trend at the time. In UK, Six Pistols’ John Lydon wore a T-shirt with Queen Elizabeth mouth was pinned. Although the band and music was prohibited by the government, the Queen-printed T-shirt and T-shirt with slogans became welcomed by people.

As a punk fan, Vivienne Westwood brought street culture into high fashion. She used great fabric but unique cut to form a shabby style in her design, which had great influence to the designer in the following generation. As DIY is the main concept in punk fashion, Donatella Versace followed Gianni Versace’s punk design in 1994, showed fabulous Vunk style in 2013 fall collection. Balmain, Jean Paul Gaultier also paid lots of effort to utilize the punk elements emerging into their design.

Punk icons were also designers favorite design muses. Joe Strummer and Patti Smith, whose T-shirt rocked the society at the time, offered fresh idea to Helmut Lang 2003 FW collection and Ann Demeulemeester 2000 SS collection. Since exhibitions themed punk went on and on, we believed that the close relationship between fashion and punk will last forever.««

 

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