時尚熱愛芭蕾舞劇 打造舞衣魅力加乘
Designers Pay Passion on Ballet Costumes


Hussein Chalayan替「重力疲勞」設計舞台衣。

Hussein Chalayan替「重力疲勞」設計舞台衣。

近期他與編舞家Damien Jalet合作,於倫敦Sadler’s Wells舞館演出「重力疲勞」(Gravity Fatigue),Chalayan除了為舞劇設計舞衣,更掛名藝術總監,他即曾於2000年在倫敦Sadler’s Wells發表時裝秀,當時他讓咖啡桌變成一條裙的時尚魔法,驚豔四座,今年發表的2016春夏女裝,則再上演水花灑、衣服溶解的變裝秀,讓人嘖嘖稱奇。

Hussein Chalayan 2016春夏女裝在台前玩起水淋溶衣秀。

Hussein Chalayan 2016春夏女裝在台前玩起水淋溶衣秀。

Chalayan善於運用特殊剪裁、材質與高科技的手法,在「重力疲勞」中依然可見,甚至他已不僅是設計舞衣,更透過他的設計與佈局,讓舞衣也有生命,具彈性的衣物材質,讓舞蹈動作不受其侷限,彰顯各種情緒,環繞在自由、位移與運動的主題。向來舞衣扮演的是配件的角色,現代舞之母瑪莎葛蘭姆1930年的經典舞作「悲慟」(Lamentation Variation)做了反轉,讓舞衣有自己的思想和感情,Chalayan則透過舞衣主宰了舞蹈。 

Hussein Chalayan在「重力疲勞」舞作,運用特殊剪裁、材質的手法,讓舞衣也有生命,具彈性的衣物材質,讓舞蹈動作不受其侷限。

Hussein Chalayan在「重力疲勞」舞作,運用特殊剪裁、材質的手法,讓舞衣也有生命,具彈性的衣物材質,讓舞蹈動作不受其侷限。

Prada為慶祝紐約舉辦的第六屆表演藝術雙年展Performa 15開幕,特別為開場表演的舞蹈家David Hallberg設計表演舞衣,並由Prada和Miu Miu設計總監Fabio Zambernardi一手打造,偕米蘭藝術家Francesco Vezzoli共同創作。「其外在語彙是偽文藝復興風格,但材質卻為超現代主義,Hallberg穿的舞衣像翡冷翠畫派重要畫家安吉里柯(Beato Angelico)的未來版。」Francesco Vezzoli說明。芭蕾舞起源於文藝復興時期的義大利,作為貴族的餘興活動,此舞作也向芭蕾的起源歷史致意,作為義大利品牌的Prada參與,格外具有意義。認真說來,時尚與芭蕾間的關係,就像麥芽糖,愈想釐斷反而愈難斷,誰都是彼此的繆思。««

David Hallberg表演舞衣由Fabio Zambernardi一手打造,向起源於文藝復興時代的芭蕾致敬。

David Hallberg表演舞衣由Fabio Zambernardi一手打造,向起源於文藝復興時代的芭蕾致敬。

»»Ballet dance is always the inspiration for fashion designers. From history, many designers have unveiled the collection for ballet dance. Sarah Jessica Parke, who’s now vice president for New York City Ballet, has done her influence to invite designers to make costumes. 

Since 2012, the likes of Valention, Thom Browne, Sarah Burton and Prabal Gurung designed costumes for Fall’s piece that it makes the piece under spotlight and catch much more 7,50 million dollars. This fall, Jessica Parker has again invited Peter Copping and Duo of Opening Ceremony to continue this mission for Thou Swell, which debuted since 2003 in memoir of Richard Rodgers’ 100th anniversary.

Peter Copping’s inspired from the life of Richard Rodgers, who wrote lots of musicals including Sounds of Music and King and I. New York City Ballet has also made one designer to work with one choreographer, for example, the japanese designer Hanako Maeda with Canada chororgrapher Rober binet.

Hussein Chalayan and Prada have also collaborated with ballet this years. Chalayan teamed up with Damien Jalet for Gravity Fatigue in London. As not only costume designer, Chalayan is also named as creative director that he use flexible material for costume to present a variety of emotion. In celebration of 6th Performa 15’s opening Prada’s creative director Fabio Zambernardi worked with Milanese artist Francesco Vezzoli to do the ballet costume design.««

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