時尚的太陽花運動 掀起捍衛勞工權益
The Rising Concerns of Labor Rights In Fashion Industry


Livia Firth(左)、VV Brown(右)為Fashion Revolution Day拍攝衣服反穿照片。

Livia Firth(左)、VV Brown(右)為Fashion Revolution Day拍攝衣服反穿照片。

同樣以孟加拉的成衣製造工廠為主題,成立倡導模特工作權益團體「Model Alliance」的模特Sara Ziff,製作紀錄片「Tangled Thread」呈現孟加拉成衣女工的工作剝削狀況。為因應國際快速時尚的風潮,孟加拉的成衣業工人必須在短時間內生產出價格低廉、消費週期短暫的成衣商品,而其中大多數的工人為女性,其中甚至可能包含輟學童工。Sara Ziff特別注重成衣產業底下的女工權益,以及各大服飾對於薪資、工安等議題的積極措施,身為Tommy Hilfiger前任模特,Sara Ziff發現該品牌也牽涉至孟加拉勞工爭議中,立刻飛往該地了解狀況,並且持續利用她在時尚圈的影響力,為此議題發聲。

Sara Ziff長期活耀於提倡模特權益運動。

Sara Ziff長期活耀於提倡模特權益運動。

在2012年11月的孟加拉塔之林時尚工廠大火後,非政府組織、國際工會聯盟如IndusrtiALL、全球公會(UNI Global Union)與時尚服飾集團開始商議「孟加拉火災及大樓安全協定」(the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh)。截至此時,H&M、Marks & Spencer、PVH集團共40多個品牌已簽署此項協定,承諾承擔起企業道德責任,如Primark即在今年3月宣布將會提撥900萬美元的賠償金給580為Rana職災災民。不過並不是簽下協議書後,孟加拉、斯里蘭卡、印尼、柬埔寨等地的勞工處境就得以一夕明朗,孟加拉Center for Worker Solidarity的執行總監Kalpona Akter即言明:「消費者一時的杯葛消費行動並無多大助益,我們希望大眾集體寫信給Walmart、與親友談論此議題、至實體進行抗議,才能有效讓議題發酵。」也唯有持續積極的監督企業、勞工團體,才能為永續正義揭開帷幕,然而羊毛出在羊身上,品牌提升工人薪資,再把成本轉嫁到消費者頭上,要不再將血汗工廠移往其他便宜人力的國家,財團操弄的中間成本轉移是否正當,不言自明。«« 

Sara Ziff所製作的Tangled Thread 影片呈現成衣業女工的壓迫處境

Sara Ziff所製作的Tangled Thread 影片呈現成衣業女工的壓迫處境

»» The Bangladesh Rana Plaza collapse has been a year. Before the tragedy, there were several fires that claimed many innocent lives. These serial factories accidents have aroused a global concern about the labour rights. In face of a leveling urge to reform Bangladeshi working conditions, fashion becomes the new frontier of basic human rights and responsible clothing.

As the second larger garment export country in the world, Bangladesh has a huge amount of cheap labor forces. Four million garment workers whose minimum wages are $68 per month, however, isn’t enough. Among it, 80% workers are women and they barely make ends meet, not to mention the potential diseases and accidents caused by works. There are major brands that were associated with Bangladeshi factories accidents, such as Gap, Primark, Walmart to name a few. However, not every brand provides a satisfactory response to this issue.

Under this context, a new founded NGO Fashion Revolution proposed April 24, the date of Rana Plaza tragedy, to be the Fashion Revolution Day and launched a social media activity #insideout to raise more awareness. The #insideout requires people to wear their clothes inside out, show the label and post it on Instagram, Twitter and so forth with the hashtag. The goal is to make people curious, and start to do research furthermore keep an eye on major retailers.

Models, designers and fashion bloggers participated in Fashion Revolution Day. They posted photos, presented ethical fashion brands’ products and spread the news to their audience. A model, Sara Ziff, who founded Model Alliance, also dedicated herself into the issue to promote Bangladeshi workers’ rights. She produced a documentary “Tangled Thread” to highlight the oppression of Bangladeshi female workers.

Although 40 brands have signed the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh, including Marks & Spencer, H&M, PVH, the mother company of Calvin Klein, that promised to provide transparency, legal bind and hold brands accountable for the conditions in the factories that make their clothes, some brands didn’t react. Walmart and Gap refused to sign the agreement and showed reluctance to improve their workers’ conditions. The excecutive director of Bangladeshi Center for Wokrer Solidarity Kalpona Akter urged the public to react actively so that retailers can feel the pressure and for the further justice among workers, consumers and retailers. Think before purchase every time, it not only empowers the workers but also make the world better.«« 

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