普普大師Roy Lichtenstein 與時尚難分難捨
Fashion’s Favorite Pop Art Master Roy Lichtenstein


甫結束的倫敦2013秋冬女裝週,則因回顧展「Lichtenstein:A Retrospective」的舉辦,讓Roy Lichtenstein再次成為伸展台焦點。Tom Ford在針織洋裝、棒球外套與蕾絲鉛筆裙上,以七彩亮片模擬畫作「Whaam!」的爆炸效果,張力十足。J.W. Anderson重新詮釋畫作「在車中」(In the Car,1963),作為不對襯裙裝的主要印花。Michael Van Der Ham則將「沙灘上的裸體」(Nude on Beach,1977)上的抽象圖樣,具象化為服裝上的鏤空設計。Vivienne Westwood Red Label更是別具巧思的將粗線條描邊技法與純色的運用,轉化為模特兒的前衛妝容。千變萬化的詮釋手法,讓已成「俗濫」的繪畫元素,透過重新組織而成為不朽,想是提出此創作理念的Roy Lichtenstein所樂見的。««

左:「在車中」(In the Car,1963);中、右:J.W. Anderson 2013秋冬女裝。

左:「在車中」(In the Car,1963);中、右:J.W. Anderson 2013秋冬女裝。

 »»The exhibition “Lichtenstein:A Retrospective” in London Tate Modern recalled people’s admiration of the Pop Art maestro Roy Lichtenstein. While he has a controversial role in the area of art, fashion gives him a high reputation such that his works still remains very influential to fashion design.

Born in Manhattan, New York, on October 27, 1923, he grew up in a wealthy environment that he expanded his passion of art since little. Joined the Art Student League in 1939, Roy Lichtenstein studied with painter Reginald Marsh during his youth years. After he graduated from high school, he entered Ohio State University’s Fine Art program, but got enrolled in army during WWII. He finished his college and graduate education after he came back from the war, depth his knowledge of the area that he even got offered being a professor.

With a personality of easy going, clam, and charming, Roy Lichtenstein is way fun than Andy Warhol, the other master of pop art. Started on pop art in 1960s, his first work was “borrowed” from a resort campaign’s swimsuit model, which he named the work “Girl with Ball” (1961). After his successful debut, the colorful palette, clear figure drawing, Benday Dot has become his iconic method on creating pop artworks.

In 1965, he is already a well-known A class celebrity artist. Through many campaigns, his works had an overload exposure that easily became his legacy after he passed away. Although soaked with success, he never stopped on improving himself. Since from “Drowning Girl” (1963), he started a collection of “tribute to great artists and lifestyle (interior) designs”, he abundant his works through fresh topics he chose as his subjects.

On his later years, he fell in love with Chinese Shan Shui paintings. A collection of art that use dots to portrait the scenery has shown that he definitely caught the essence of Chinese art: so poetry. But at the same time, he injected the elements of modern through his special method of painting, which made a milestone for him right before he passed away on September, 1997.

Roy Lichtenstein’s influence on fashion can be traced back Yves Saint Laurent’s tribute collection to Pop Art in 1966. Gianni Versace’s 1996 SS Haute Couture with the word “Whaam!” across it also represented designer’s respect toward this master of pop art. Then, Emanuel Ungaro 2003 SS Haute Couture’s suit continued the trend of Roy Lichtenstein’s tribute to the 21st century.

Entering the 2000s, Viktor & Rolf 2007 FE Men’s Collection has an obvious tone Roy Lichtenstein. Iceberg 2008 FW, on the other hand, was mused from this pop art master, creating a phrase “Never” on the collection. Toward to 2011, there are Moschino 2011 SS Men’s Collection and Miu Miu 2011 SS Women’s Collection that paid tribute to the artist. In 2012, 3.1 Philip Lim illustrated the spirit of Lichtenstein through words, color, and dots into his collection.

In 2013, London’s Fashion Week was themed “Lichtenstein:A Retrospective”. Tom Ford’s wool dress, baseball blazer, and lace dress are all painted with “Whaam!” J.W.Anderson transferred the art work, “In the Car”, to his collection. Michael Van Der Ham injected the element through a more abstract perception while Vivienne Westwood Red Label painted the art onto model’s face, making every model into the characters of Roy Lichtenstein.

By observing above tributes, we see how fashion sees his work beyond “copyright” or “low comic”, it is just a legendary muse that will never leave in fashion. ««

 

 

 

 

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