男人穿蕾絲 挑戰世俗極限
Men in Lace, Stylish or Stunning?


雖然小馬哥的蕾絲評價很兩極,但2013春夏男裝吹起蕾絲潮流,小馬哥可以說是功臣之一。因為春夏秀場上Versace讓男人套上蕾絲長褲同時,金邊壓花的華麗點綴,亦有蕾絲罩衫滿足變裝需求。英國J.W. Anderson簡直仿效小馬哥造型,男裝流露強烈的女性氛圍,中場還有幾套連身蕾絲褲裝,利用薄紗與印花壓製而成,男模只著四角短褲詮釋,若隱若現的情趣指數留給男人們大傷腦筋,儘管如此,J.W. Anderson也推出蕾絲的背心變裝版,這娘味看起來就稍微緩和許多。另外丹麥設計師Astrid Andersen,讓蕾絲和運動休閒衫結合,而Meadham Kirchhoff在2013春夏也有蕾絲罩衫設計,只不過鮮豔桃紅和靛藍色系的花孔雀路線,又有多少男人願意接受,則有待考驗。

左至右依序為Meadham Kirchhoff、Versace與J.W. Anderson 2013春夏,推出不少蕾絲設計。

左至右依序為Meadham Kirchhoff、Versace與J.W. Anderson 2013春夏,推出不少蕾絲設計。

Alexis Mabille也未在這次2013春夏蕾絲風缺席,告別前幾季過於娘味的蕾絲套裝,來年春夏選用蕾絲和運動T恤拼接處理,利用蕾絲既有的圖騰雕花轉作成T恤印花效果,甚至擷取部分蕾絲面料,作為裝飾點綴,甚至仿效女裝裙襬繞褶處理,有如讓男人穿上迷你版女裙。另外在正式西裝部分,則將蕾絲雕花當成領子面料,優雅修飾。至於這波蕾絲熱,男人們肯不肯買單,就留待日後哪位潮男來做見證了。««

Alexis Mabille 2013春夏男裝將蕾絲和T恤結合,營造印花視覺效果。

Alexis Mabille 2013春夏男裝將蕾絲和T恤結合,營造印花視覺效果。

»»Stereotypically speaking, laces usually belong to female, but fashion designers seem to disagree with such arrangement. More and more menswear are decorated with laces or even made of lace only. While Marc Jacobs wore Comme des Garçon’s lace long shirt stunned the media, the lace trend for men seemed to be hot at the same time.

Actually before Comme des Garçon’s 2012 SS collection, Riccardo Tisci had tried to establish this aesthetic for Givenchy in 2009 and Yohji Yamamoto also echoed his bold attempt. But the colors were too bright for men to really follow. Later, Etro created lace shirts and applied this feminine fabric to decorate the collection. Marwood also used this material to make ties and other romantic accessories for men. Comme des Garçon cleverly let this sheer fabric to adorn its collection without exposing too much flash to be disgusting. As for the 2013 Spring and summer collections, laces were still popular because J.W. Anderson, Meadham Kirchhoff and Versace all had their laced garments for men. ««

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