當代藝術家Jeff Koons 時尚的活力維他命
Jeff Koons’ Art Nurtures Fashion Creations


同時,設計師也自Jeff Koons的藝術品中汲取養分,化作服裝的設計元素。Stella McCartney 2006春夏女裝,選擇畫作「嘴唇」(Lips,2000)、「粉紅球」(Pink Bow,1996),妝點飄逸的長裙設計。Iceberg 2009春夏女裝則將大型不鏽鋼作品「氣球狗」(Balloon Dog,1994-2000),化作服裝上的霓虹印花。Basso & Brooke 2010春夏則揉合Jeff Koons作品中的俗艷(Kitsch)氣質與攝影師Herb Ritts的黑白影像,呈現出前衛的科技印花設計。Louis Gray 2011秋冬則獨排眾議,選擇以帽飾配件來反映藝術家對她的影響。

Iceberg 2009春夏女裝(左、中)讓不鏽鋼作品「氣球狗」化作服裝上的印花。

Iceberg 2009春夏女裝(左、中)讓不鏽鋼作品「氣球狗」化作服裝上的印花。

近來,Jeff Koons的時尚跨界觸角延伸的更加廣泛,先是2010、2011連兩年與美國藥妝品牌Kiehl’s合作包裝設計,先後讓作品「鬱金香」、「氣球花(黃色)」(Balloon Flower(Yellow),1995-1999),化作系列保養品瓶身裝飾。拿起相機為2011年9月號<Harper’s Bazaar>拍攝影像專題「Artistic License」。2012年還從先前的T-shirt設計,進階到與Lisa Perry合作一系列女裝作品。從洋裝、西裝外套到手環,清楚可見Jeff Koons的經典作品躍於其上。玲瑯滿目的時尚跨界案,讓人驚訝時尚圈對Jeff Koons的推崇。而Jeff Koons將通俗的大眾文化搬上藝術殿堂後,再將高高在上的藝術作品下放於日常生活,則讓人不禁思考,這或許是新思維下的普普藝術創作。««

左:Jeff Koons為Kiehl’s設計的Creme de Corps Holiday系列保養品;中、右:Jeff Koons與Lisa Perry合作推出的系列女裝。

左:Jeff Koons為Kiehl’s設計的Creme de Corps Holiday系列保養品;中、右:Jeff Koons與Lisa Perry合作推出的系列女裝。

»»Earned the name of second richest alive artist in the world in 2012, American artist Jeff Koons was always criticized because his art works tend to please the wealthy’s tastes due to the fact that his art works were extremely popular in most of the auctions. Mark Stevens, worked for New Republic magazine, wrote that Jeff Koons was a corrupted artist whose kitsches only served the riches; Michael Kimmelman from The New York Times judged his works with terms “ridiculous” and “cheap.” What kind of artist was he who evoked both praises and criticisms at the same time?

Born in 1955, Pennsylvania, Jeff Koons stepped on the way to art when he showed the talent on painting at 3. During his Study at School of the Art Institute of Chicago, he was inspired by the style of Édouard Manet and hippy culture in 60’ to establish his art foundation. However, his art gradually became notable when he worked as financial managers 3 years after he graduated.

When he owned both fortunes from his jobs and great talent from his education, he opened a studio to realize his concept then produce them. In 1985 the uniqueness in his work “Equilibrium” series aroused audience’s curiosity, which brought huge impact to the art world and evoke a lot of criticisms. Jeff Koons defended for his art that no one would belittle Beatles’ music due to its popularity, which exactly applied to his work. 

Due to his philosophy of art, his artworks could always attract great attentions. For example, he used to employ his wife Ilona Staller, a pornography star, as the model to produce the series of “Made in Heaven,” which were series of paintings, photographs, and sculptures portrayed Koons and Staller in explicit sexual positions. In addition, he aggressively promoted his artworks and even himself as a product, such as playing a role as Art Agnos in film Milk and collaborating with BMW to design E92 BMW M3. He successfully had the control of defining and valuing his art, rather than controlled by the media.

Jeff Koons’ contribution to fashion industry would be the collaboration with Calvin Klein to raise fund for ICMEC by printing the dog icon on T-shirts, and the collaboration with Baguette for amfAR. Designers also extracted the creative elements from Jeff Koons’ artworks. Stella McCartney, Iceberg, Basso & Brooke and Louis Gray all adapted his art to strengthen their clothing and accessories design.««

 

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