神聖十字架 主宰時尚信仰
The Development of Crucifix As Fashion Symbols


左起Versace 1991秋冬、1997秋冬、2012秋冬皆以十字架作為設計主軸。

左起Versace 1991秋冬、1997秋冬、2012秋冬皆以十字架作為設計主軸。

不僅時裝大量使用十字符碼,配件首飾更為大宗,足以另起篇幅介紹,概括看來Dolce & Gabbana絕對是近年來以十字符號作為珠寶配飾的最佳典範,2013秋冬的黃金拜占庭帝國,模特身上的馬賽克拼貼藝術服裝,配上黃金十字耳環、珠鍊,不禁讓人遙想當年往日帝國的金碧輝煌。而無數品牌也紛紛投入十字飾品的設計,如Lanvin、Tory Burch、Anna Sui、Alberta Ferretti分別以不同的雕琢技法、風格造型、寶石金屬開拓十字架作為裝飾品的可能性。回顧無數以時尚風格、歷史文化為發想的十字符號創作後,驀然回首發現十字架早已脫離宗教本意,且不論歷史悠久的演變過程,大眾對於十字的信仰,早已堅定不移。««

Dolce & Gabbana 2013秋冬拜占庭風格十字珠寶。

Dolce & Gabbana 2013秋冬拜占庭風格十字珠寶。

»» A cross is a geometrical symbol that is consisted of two lines vertical with each other. In Egypt, people believe the cross is related to the sun and in China the cross represents four directions of the earth.The Persian evolved it into a cruel punishment and Jesus was the most famous person who was crucified. It didn’t turn to a positive representation until Constantinus I Magnus announced it as the national religion. 

In the 5th century, the Hiberno-Saxon art in Ireland generated a style with colorful and symmetrical lines producing complicated visual illusions which people used to decorate Lindisfarne Gospels. Paul Gauguin and Dali even internalized the cross as a personal struggle within the outer world. With people generating more interpretation based on the crucifix, it gradually comes into the pop culture.

For example, Germany used the Iron Cross as a metal for war; Punk and Gothic cultures also popularized it into the young generation and transformed it into an accessory that articulates their perspectives. Madonna and Lady Gaga are two stars that widely input cross into their performances and therefore got serious criticism from the conservative churches. 

Tisci is known to be a designer who likes to put cross into his collections. 2008 AW womenswear uses metal cross necklaces to create a visual highlight. John Galliano applied gothic style onto the cross design. A ghost nurse wore a SM cross mask in 2000 SS HC; the crucifix became a trophy of blood in 2006 SS HC and Comme des Garsons weaved a cross like hair style in 2014 SS.

Gianni Versace put crucifix symbol at the back of leather jackets, shows, and clothes for his 1991 AW womenswear. Again in 1997 the cross became the eye-catching decoration on the dress which is followed by his sister Donatella Versace in 2012 AW womenswear collection.When it comes to cross, no one can miss Dolce & Gabbana 2013 AW jewelry, which is designed after golden Byzantium style. After the long time period, the cross has evolved into countless versions and meanings but what’s never changed is the mysterious attraction it generates. ««

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