祭祀圖騰假面 時尚表演配飾
Fashion Mask Fantasy


Alexander McQueen則是另一個喜愛以面具作為裝飾的品牌,Alexander McQueen 2009秋冬以純手工打造騎士版金屬珠飾面罩,由模特兒頭頂延伸至手部,形塑出高雅版柔美鋼鐵人,Sarah Burton接手創意總監大位之後,延續其「掩面」概念,繼續將之發揚光大,陸續在2012 春夏推出手工蕾絲面罩,將黑白蕾絲佈滿模特兒頭部,呈現出斑紋式趣味,2013秋冬大秀上則將焦點擺在網狀珠鍊所構成的全罩式面具中,為原本已極具驚人創意的服飾系列,再添更多美麗驚喜。

Alexander McQueen以精緻手工打造驚艷面罩。(左起2009秋冬、2012 春夏、2013秋冬)

Alexander McQueen以精緻手工打造驚艷面罩。(左起2009秋冬、2012 春夏、2013秋冬)

甫結束的2014春夏男裝週上,各品牌男裝也紛紛祭出面具造型搭配衣裝完整度,Emporio Armani由太陽眼鏡變奏出英雄式面罩,Umit Benan的濃濃土耳其味也洋溢在各式表情的老人面具中,KTZ的沙漠鐵面人更是懾人,預告了明年春夏將會掀起面具潮流。面具的影響力從遠古時到現代,由祭祀圖騰到表演配件,更跨越性別、國界限制,只因人類對面具共通的崇拜和欣賞,變化出如此精彩的各式面貌,相信從今起千年萬年,面具仍舊會是世界共通的藝術與時尚語言。««

2014春夏男裝週吹起面具風潮。(左起Emporio Armani、KTZ、Umit Benan)

2014春夏男裝週吹起面具風潮。(左起Emporio Armani、KTZ、Umit Benan)

»»Mask’s history could be traced back to thousand years ago. The art value and historical meaning were so huge that it still influenced the world and fashion industry greatly. In the very beginning, mask were used on hunting or ritual ceremony. The usage of mask in dance and drama also come from the religious ceremony when people want to present the story of Gods or imitated the process of the rituals. The dancers and performers put on mask to act as various characters, which might be the origin of dance and drama.

Ancient Greece drama, Japanese Noh drama, Sichuan opera and Topeng all widely use mask as the important accessories in the performance. In Venice, the mask was one of the parts of their daily outfit before 18 century. However, after Napoléon conquer the area, the mask was prohibit to wear. Until 1979, the Venice carnival revived the beautiful tradition and became one of the most popular carnival in the world.

Mask art influenced contemporary art a lot. Many artists’ works were affected by the beauty of the mask. For example, Calixte Dakpogan’s “Papa Sodabi – The Drunk, 2002” and Matthew Monahan’s “Untitled (Blue Mask),2002” and Lynda Benglis’ “Robeline, 2010” were all outstanding mask works inspired by the art.

Martin Margiela was definitely the biggest supporter of mask. Since the early stage of his creation, he preferred to cover the models’ faces with different kind of mask. In 2012 the jewelry mask was so welcomed that the brand launched the second shoot that the masks were decorated by flowers and colorful stones. Another brand was Alexander McQueen. Since 2009 A/W collection to the 2013 A/W collection, designer Sarah Burton continued instilled the mask element for the fashion house.

As to the runway, lace mask was the most common one that you could easily see on runway, such as Chanel and Jason Wu. Maison Michel’s bunny ears lace mask was also welcomed by many celebrities such as Victoria Beckham and Rihanna. The stunning jewelry mask by Jean Paul Gautier, Thierry Mugler and Inbar Spector brought another highlight for their collections. In 2014 S/S menswear, Emporio Armani, KTZ and Umit Benan showcased their new interpretations to mask. According to the magical power of mask, we could expect that more creative mask would be showed in the near future.««

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