米蘭2013秋冬男裝特別報導之五:復古元素年輕化 現代主義見端倪
Milan FW 2013 Men’s Collections Trend Report


Trend 5  立體浮凸布紋 玩味布料新維度
當3D技術屢屢引起話題,服裝布料也不甘寂寞,突破平面限制向三維進發。結合立體織紋與绗縫處理,Giorgio Armani本季布料豐富的錯視效果,為他的「男人計畫」增色不少;Calvin Klein設計師Italo Zucchelli本季利用布料凹凸,製造出微距放大版的斜紋、人字紋與直條效果,證明他在材料學上的前瞻性,而Neil Barrett也使用類似壓紋處理本季皮衣;在Z Zegna,設計師Paul Surridge則讓觀眾戴上3D眼鏡,為系列增添新維度,而不致沉溺於懷舊浪漫之中。而Gucci、Salvatore Ferragamo與Iceberg本季的針織品,毛線皆富有明晰線條,也帶來彷彿3D影印品的科技感。

As 3D printing is stirring up talk everywhere, so does 3D fabric treatments. Designers took advanced fabric technology to develop one of a kind, tongue in cheek effects. Giorgio Armani has proven himself to be no old dog with his advanced fabric, while Italo Zucchelli also put up some interesting fabrics at Calvin Klein, while Z Zegna also used such patterns to update its nostalgia.

立體布面處理使本季男裝多了現代感。(由左至右:Giorgio Armani、Calvin Klein、Salvatore Ferragamo。)

立體布面處理使本季男裝多了現代感。(由左至右:Giorgio Armani、Calvin Klein、Salvatore Ferragamo。)

Trend 6  大就是美 巨獸鞋款持續發威
告別夏日輕巧的樂福、帆船鞋款,2013秋冬男鞋仍以堅實可靠為重點,甚至頗有以誇張厚重為美的傾向。鞋款一向曲線優雅的Jil Sander,本季轉向略為笨拙的德式楦頭,搭配寬大防水的挪威縫鞋底,十足實用主義;已多季推出誇張鞋款的Prada,秋冬則變本加厲,為莫卡辛鞋款加上雙層犬牙底,在冬季雪地中想必舒適性十足。Versace本季強調男人味的系列,自然少不了厚重機車靴;Kenzo多款厚底套靴與蓬鬆運動鞋,也與品牌旅行主題相得益彰。但本季厚重鞋款冠軍則絕對是Bally,紀念聖母峰登頂60周年,品牌復刻了當年為登山家Tenzing Norgay製作的皮草登山靴,厚實保暖捨我其誰。

Forget about the flimsy loafers, FW2013 is all about big shoes. As the ever elegant Jil Sander opted for a clunky Norwegian welt, Prada also stepped its game up for huge commando soles, while Versace also used tough moto boots to stress its manliness. The champion of the big shoes contest however must be Bally, which’s line of Everest expedition replicas beats all in terms of warmth and comfort.««

本季鞋款以誇張厚重為主,犬牙底大受歡迎。(由左至右:Jil Sander、Prada、Versace)

本季鞋款以誇張厚重為主,犬牙底大受歡迎。(由左至右:Jil Sander、Prada、Versace)

推到Facebook臉書!把這篇文章貼到twitter分享到微博!手機版網站