米蘭2014春夏女裝報導之六:聚焦空靈美女 Giorgio Armani打造流浪裝扮
Milan 2014 SS Women’s Collection:The Ethereal Beauty Show Eternal Glamour


入世的幹練套裝與出世的飄逸洋裝,成為今日米蘭春夏女裝的兩大設計主軸。(由左至右:Gianfranco Ferré、Uma Wang、Giorgio Armani)

入世的幹練套裝與出世的飄逸洋裝,成為今日米蘭春夏女裝的兩大設計主軸。(由左至右:Gianfranco Ferré、Uma Wang、Giorgio Armani)

»»米蘭2014春夏女裝週進入最後一天,Gianfranco Ferré聚焦品牌基因,重新演繹品牌創辦人的經典輪廓。中國設計師Uma Wang則發揮創意,將自然海灣美景,化作系列女裝設計。至於重頭戲Giorgio Armani,本季則凸顯溫柔但勇敢的女性特質,讓系列春夏女裝呈現出剛柔並濟的風格輪廓。

設計師Giorgio Armani形容,他所打造出的女人,是結合「空靈」與「堅毅」兩種極端特質。體現在2014春夏女裝設計的,是一系列西裝外套與鉛筆裙、短褲的3件式穿搭,凸顯了女人的幹練作風。對於空靈的詮釋,則反應在大量的絲質、薄透布料的運用;紫藍與粉紅系的選擇,以及展現暈染效果的印花設計等。秀末,由三位模特兒共同演繹的圍裹式洋裝,搭配上幾何形寬沿帽的造型,更是讓人聯想大漠中的流浪旅者,讓Giorgio Armani春夏女裝,透露出幾許傳奇色彩。

Giorgio Armani本季凸顯溫柔但勇敢的女性特質。

Giorgio Armani本季凸顯溫柔但勇敢的女性特質。

在雙人組設計師Federico Piaggi與Stefano Citron打造下,Gianfranco Ferré 2014春夏女裝選擇以品牌創辦人在主導設計之時,由攝影大師Herb Ritts拍攝下的形象廣告為設計靈感。除了運用具分量感的布料,勾勒出建築線條般的服裝輪廓。俐落褲裝、寬肩輪廓,搭配上搶眼的腰帶設計,則透露出上世紀80年代的女強人作風,引人遙想品牌極盛時期的風采。

Gianfranco Ferré 本季以品牌過往經典設計為靈感。

Gianfranco Ferré 本季以品牌過往經典設計為靈感。

受西班牙北部崎嶇的海岸線啟發,中國設計師Uma Wang為2014春夏女裝染上了天空的湛藍,以及海浪的蒼白。模特兒濕淋淋的髮型,也令人聯想海風吹撫下的凌亂。服裝輪廓部分,Uma Wang本季以一系列不對襯洋裝為設計主軸。其中,較具垂墜感的布料,設計師選擇以抽繩手法豐富洋裝輪廓。如紙質般的硬挺布料,設計師便運用獨特的刷色與抓皺手法,為輪廓單純的洋裝,注入岩石般的質感,再次呼應本季的自然主題。

Uma Wang受西班牙北部崎嶇的海岸線,讓女裝透露自然氣息。

Uma Wang受西班牙北部崎嶇的海岸線,讓女裝透露自然氣息。

秀場之外,時尚名人的衣著造型也同樣有看頭。透過當紅街拍攝影師Tommy Ton的鏡頭,除可見Anja Rubik、劉雯、朴智惠(Ji Hye Park)等名模私下的時尚裝扮。同時還可以明顯感受到迷你洋裝的風潮,正在時尚圈蔓延。其中,造型百變的Anna Dello Russo可說是迷你洋裝的忠實粉絲,除翻出Miu Miu 2008春夏洋裝,展現舊衣新穿的功力。還接續換上Saint Laurent 2013秋冬碎花洋裝,以及Dolce & Gabbana 2013秋冬充滿宗教色彩的設計,讓人充分感受到迷你洋裝的時尚魅力。««

街拍攝影師Tommy Ton鏡頭下的名人衣裝。(由左至右:朴智惠、Anja Rubik、Anna Dello Russo)

街拍攝影師Tommy Ton鏡頭下的名人衣裝。(由左至右:朴智惠、Anja Rubik、Anna Dello Russo)

 

»»Finally the last day of Milan fashion week came. With the classic silhouette of Gianfranco Ferré and natural charm in Chinese designer Uma Wang’s collection, Giorgio Armani was the last but best one of today’s fashion performances. As Giorgio Armani described his Armani ladies who owned the two opposite characters, he used a series of 3-piece suit design to stand for the “determined,” and the pink and purple gauze to present the “ethereal.”

Gianfranco Ferré, named as ”the architect of fashion,” introduced his architectural collection inspired by the aesthetic of photographer Herb Ritts, which revealed the 80’s power women chic and reminded us the brand’s prosperity in 80’s. Chinese designer Uma Wang chose to display her latest design in Milan as well. She extracted the glamour of Spanish coastline instilling in her 2014 S/S line, which decorated the texture of stone and wave in the garment.

Outside of the fashion shows, the outfits of fashion icons and models also another spotlights of the fashion week. Through the lens of Tommy Ton, Anja Rubik, Anna Dello Russo, Liu Wen all spoke out their dressing philosophy by their stylish looks.«« 

推到Facebook臉書!把這篇文章貼到twitter分享到微博!手機版網站