米蘭2014秋冬女裝報導之二:Fendi皮草玩新招 派Q版老佛爺打毛怪
Milan AW 2014 Woman’s Collection: Fendi Recreated Karl Lagerfeld With Fur


Fendi 2014秋冬女裝祭出Karl Lagerfeld毛怪配飾,皮草拼接處理成賣點。

Fendi 2014秋冬女裝祭出Karl Lagerfeld毛怪配飾,皮草拼接處理成賣點。

Karl Lagerfeld向媒體表示這季靈感來自Billie Holiday一首歌「Violets for Your Furs」,爵士歌手Billie Holiday曾以大型花頭飾為造型,Fendi 2014秋冬女裝也稍作模仿,不過是將白色蝴蝶蘭裝飾在胸前當別針使用。最值得一探究竟的是將點點星光化做布料圖樣,無論是薄紗蕾絲或絨毛布料,璀璨銀河風采成就秋冬女裝最美艷的視覺效果。身為皮草龍頭之一的Fendi,先前喊出彩色快樂皮草主義,把皮草染上各式歡樂顏色,2014秋冬女裝則玩起不規則拼貼戲碼,把提包把手覆蓋一層皮毛,包身則是由數塊不規則形體的各色毛料拼組。結構放寬肩線處理的系列大衣,刻意將皮草錯落剪裁重新組合,把時裝當拼圖,亂中有序,另外披肩圍巾摻入寬版腰帶,橫掛頸肩,極地女英雌來也。

Fendi 2014秋冬女裝細節照,皮草拼接成不規則剪裁處理。

Fendi 2014秋冬女裝細節照,皮草拼接成不規則剪裁處理。

面對Fendi與Moschino來勢洶洶,資深Prada也火力全開,2014秋冬女裝主題定調為歷史,緬懷德國前衛文化,好比是編舞家Pina Bausch、行為藝術家Joseph Beuys與電影「霧港水手」導演Rainer Werner Fassbinder,他們都是德國前衛文化的佼佼者,同時秀場音樂選擇已故德國作曲家Kurt Weill,致敬意味濃。Muccia Prada特選Rainer Werner Fassbinder幾部電影,1972年的「佩特拉的苦淚」(The Bitter Tears of Petra von Kant)與1981年的「蘿拉」(Lola)當作女裝靈感,西裝剪裁明顯,oversize輪廓與強力肩線處理,展露強勢作風。Prada 2014秋冬女裝並沒有包很緊,至少透視度高的絲質襯裙布料,被設計師用來當洋裝處理,搭配Art Deco有序的圖騰和構成主義的幾何色塊,同時延續春夏彩虹皮草,不少大衣利用鮮豔皮草滾邊修飾,意外架構出秋冬燦爛章節。

Prada 2014秋冬女裝向德國前衛文化致意。

Prada 2014秋冬女裝向德國前衛文化致意。

Just Cavalli過去泰半將設計師最愛的豹紋、皮革元素拿來炒作一番,2014秋冬似乎轉性求改變,論風格,設計師Roberto Cavalli想要把街頭年輕搖滾客姿態注入新一季表現,騎士夾克滾邊皮草,維持設計師最愛的奢華路線。Roberto Cavalli為這回發表,還跑到各地旅行,包含不丹在內,加入些許異國民族種子,印花圖騰變得頗有東方異國氛圍,甚至遙想義大利文藝復興時期,將藝術畫作當數位轉印參考,他說Just Cavalli 2014秋冬女孩們是擁有文藝復興美感的搖滾客。向來走低調簡約的Max Mara,設計團隊剪裁處理愈形精湛,秋冬向蘇格蘭取經,不單找經典格紋,還在質料下功夫,軟呢針織與PVC科技材打造女裝硬挺肩線,系列大衣成2014秋冬主要賣點,oversize寬廣輪廓,配合著線條一貫俐落乾淨,是最標準實穿精神。««  

Max Mara 2014秋冬女裝取材蘇格蘭(左),Just Cavalli 2014秋冬高唱文藝復興搖滾派(中與右)。

Max Mara 2014秋冬女裝取材蘇格蘭(左),Just Cavalli 2014秋冬高唱文藝復興搖滾派(中與右)。

»»Highlights in Milan Fashion Week day two must dedicate to Moschino and Fendi. The former used images of McDonald’s and chocolate package to be the inspiration of clothes. Don’t forget the Sponge Bob suits and Rita Ora and Katy Perry’s personal fashion shows. After all the humor elements, all we can say is Jeremy Scott is the real master of pop art. 

Fendi this time sent the fur collection again. Cara Delevingne opened the show with a Karl Lagerfeld fur doll in the hand. the brand conceptualized star lights into the fabrication with lace and silk decoration. To sum up, the rest of collection presented more fur coats and accessories presenting an extravagant season.

Prada focused on the Bauhaus culture this season. Pina Bausch, Joseph Beuys and Rainer Werner Fassbinder are muses who injected this season with flame. The suit silhouette and oversized coats dominated the collection. Art Deco style color tartan and rainbow color furs added more fun into Prada collection.

Just Cavalli injected more foreign styles with street looks in this season. The eastern pattern and Renaissance paintings were used on the clothes. Maz Mara gave a lot of emphasis on coats. The oversized coats showed a sharp look and practical function.««  

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