米蘭2014秋冬男裝報導之一:賦予經典新輪廓 Ermenegildo Zegna前景看漲
Milan 2014AW Men’s Collection: A bright Future for Ermenegildo Zegna


至於Neil Barett 2014秋冬男裝,在清一色縮口運動褲、或窄版西裝褲的穿搭中,設計師祭出了風行多季的圓領運動衫,無論是處以绗縫裝飾,或壓上閃電印花,勢必又會引發一波搶購。此外,各式各樣的棒球外套與翻領大衣成為本季重點,從基本的皮革與毛呢拼接款式,或是漸層色處理,都別具巧思,其中一款漆皮與麂皮質感接合的設計,更是讓人愛不釋手。

Neil Barett 2014秋冬祭出多款圓領運動衫與各式外套。

Neil Barett 2014秋冬祭出多款圓領運動衫與各式外套。

而在John Varvatos秀場,我們得以跳脫極簡主義的規矩,享受屬於搖混樂手的騷包活力。無論是穿上銀色鱷魚皮夾克、閃著紫色斑點螢光的西裝外套、以及肩線縫上羽毛輪廓般皮革裝飾的大衣,或是搭配露趾皮手套與圓頂禮帽等,都徹底展現出搖滾樂手所追逐的華麗。秀莫,擔任品牌2014春夏廣告代言人的Kiss樂團,頂著完整的標誌性妝容現身,正好解釋了男模臉上為何會出現超級英雄般的面具彩繪,也讓人見識到品牌將音樂元素注入服裝設計的功力。 ««

John Varvatos 2014秋冬展現出搖滾華麗作風。

John Varvatos 2014秋冬展現出搖滾華麗作風。

»»For this season, Dolce & Gabbana takes the audience back to the medieval age where was raged by conquerors. Switching from the cozy Siciliana style, the menswear for AW2014 is more with a dark historicism. Models wore bejeweled crowns and gauntlets and oversize sweats printed with images of the Norman Kings that invaded in the 11th century.

Donatella Versace always makes sure that she can bring new dynamic thoughts to the audience. For AW2014, she took the audience to the wild frontier for the cowboy show. The most awesome-like scene during the show was a bunch of boys who are nearly naked on the ass. The “male lingerie” pinned with leather and rivets to imply the eroticism.

 Now change the focus to the future star, Stefano Pilati’s second year as Ermenengildo Zegna’s designer. Pilati accurately pinned down the brand’s feature: Zegna’s iconic suit-ness and fine fabrics. Pilati also applies his concept of contamination, which combines different ideas together in terms of designing, to create a conceptual and modern collection.

Jil Sander without its eponymous designer gave an above-average presentation. A series of clean cut suits and jackets. Plus, the mix-match of different fabrics on pants announced a creative teamwork that the brand has conducted. Neil Barett’s AW collection focuses on sweatshirts, which contained shirts and marbled-leather toggle coats and are popular among young urban men.

John Varvatos brought stunning rock-n-roll stars back to life. With the use of sliver-crocodile-leather jacket, neon-purple-spot suit and coats with feather decoration on the shoulder, John Varvatos presented a dazzlingly show. Also, the rock band “Kiss” performed on the catwalk for the brand.  ««

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