米蘭2015秋冬女裝報導之七:喇叭褲西裝耍帥 鉛筆裙針織衫發燒
Milan 2015AWWomen’s Collection Trend Report


米蘭2015秋冬女裝週,隨著Giorgio Armani 2015秋冬大秀的落幕,畫下句點。

米蘭2015秋冬女裝週,隨著Giorgio Armani 2015秋冬大秀的落幕,畫下句點。

»»隨著Giorgio Armani 40周年大秀如雷的閉幕掌聲,米蘭2015秋冬女裝週也正式畫下句點。對比於倫敦的創意與活力,擁有眾多悠久歷史品牌的米蘭時裝週,發揮了精湛工藝的強勢特色,更因為新創意總監的加入,如Gucci的Alessandro Michele、Jil Sander的Rodolfo Paglialunga等等,讓本季米蘭秋冬女裝,充滿了令人期待的理由,以及讓人耳目一新的設計。

Trend 1  中性時尚不死 女人帥氣穿西裝
Prada 2015秋冬女裝推出一系列成套西裝作為開場,除透過粉嫩色系與剪裁,點出品牌本季的少女氣質,同時也預告了女人穿西裝的秋冬趨勢。但流行可不是Prada一個品牌說了就算,在米蘭2015秋冬伸展台上,Bottega Veneta以西裝外套的寬肩線剪裁,與規律的繽紛圓點印花做出區隔。Gucci透過花卉印花與絲質襯衫的領巾設計,營造中性情調。Versace重新詮釋男士經典條紋西裝,只透過鮮豔的印花襯衫透露品牌狂野氣息。Giorgio Armani透過特殊的單扣設計與褲管開衩巧思,詮釋截然不同的西裝輪廓,再加上Etro覆滿品牌經典民俗印花的作品,讓同樣的成套西裝也能有截然不同的選擇。
Trend 1  Women in Suits Never Go Out of Style
Prada gave us a series of suited looks at the beginning of their show, and Bottega Veneta also had a lot suits, designed in polka dots. Gucci gave us floral prints and silk shirts, while Armani used a single button design on their coats and slitted their trouser pants. Etro suits were full of folkloric prints, giving us an alternative option.

米蘭2015秋冬女裝週,推出各式各樣的西裝設計。(由左至右:Gucci、Etro、Bottega Veneta)

米蘭2015秋冬女裝週,推出各式各樣的西裝設計。(由左至右:Gucci、Etro、Bottega Veneta)

Trend 2  70復古風潮 喇叭褲瀟灑踩街
而上世紀70年復古風潮的影響下,除了民俗印花、流蘇等,透露波西米亞風情的元素不時出現,反映阿哥哥文化的喇叭褲,也成為米蘭2015秋冬女裝週異軍突起的時尚單品。Versace推出膝上貼合曲線、膝下無限擴張的高腰褲型,與回字紋印花上衣搭配。Roberto Cavalli讓模特兒換上印有中式花卉的荷葉邊上衣,與鉚釘裝飾的飄逸喇叭褲,詮釋設計師眼中的「中國女孩」形象。Emilio Pucci透過薄透襯衫與絨布喇叭褲,詮釋1970年代搖滾巨星風采。Fendi選擇幾何印花裝飾,同時拼接毛茸茸皮草增加設計層次。但最有趣非Gabriele Colangelo莫屬,透過特殊的開衩剪裁,以及抓皺、鈕扣裝飾,賦予喇叭褲截然不同的輪廓。
Trend 2  70s Throwback and Bell Bottoms
There were plenty of 70s references on stage this season, and we see folkish prints, florals, fringes and all sort s of bohemian details. Versace also gave bell bottoms a comeback on the catwalk, Pucci was a floral frenzy with all sorts of silk shirts and velvet trousers, while Fendi stuck to geometric block prints, and Gabriele Colangelo also gave us plenty to see with his slits and drapes on the bell bottoms.

喇叭褲設計,透露阿哥哥文化影響。(由左至右:Versace、Fendi、Emilio Pucci)

喇叭褲設計,透露阿哥哥文化影響。(由左至右:Versace、Fendi、Emilio Pucci)

Trend 3  斷袖設計 背心大衣、外套搶眼
各式各樣的背心大衣與外套,則是米蘭2015秋冬女裝週,另一項發燒單品。Emporio Armani取材棒球夾克輪廓,設計出融合街頭與奢華風格的皮草外套。同樣的皮草設計,Giamba則將羊毛作為外套內裡,同時以短版剪裁,呈現俐落特色。大衣部分,除了Jil Sander、Tod’s將常見的大衣輪廓作斷袖處理,前者純粹以格紋增色,後者則注入誇張翻領與拉鍊結構。也能找到Marni輪廓極簡、刻意不修邊的設計,或是Moschino黃黑拚色的連帽羽絨作品,再加上Fendi、Gabriele Colangelo 的皮草大衣,以及Prada仿斜紋軟呢質感的印花巧思,讓女人在今年秋冬,都能找到適合自己的背心設計。
Trend 3  Sleeveless Vest Designs The Rage
There were all sorts of sleeveless designs such as the street-style like fur jackets at Emporio Armani, while Giamba gave us long-hemmed woolen vests, and Jil Sander and Tod’s also cut the sleeves of their coat designs. Marni was rough and furry, and furry vests were also seen at Fendi and Gabriele Colangelo, while Prada used tweed and prints to give us alternatives to the vest.

各式背心大衣與外套,成為2015秋冬女裝發燒單品。(由左至右:Jil Sander、Emporio Armani、Tod's)

各式背心大衣與外套,成為2015秋冬女裝發燒單品。(由左至右:Jil Sander、Emporio Armani、Tod's)

Trend 4  優雅至上 鉛筆裙魅力不減
而迷你裙稱霸時尚圈的時刻,恐怕只有鉛筆裙裝可以稍稍與之抗衡。將「Viva la Mamma」(母愛萬歲)作為設計主題的Dolce & Gabbana,就將充滿童趣的塗鴉,作為鉛筆裙洋裝的醒目裝飾。Max Mara融合棒球外套領口的設計,則透過貼合曲線的剪裁,重新勾勒Marilyn Monroe經典形象,與覆滿七彩回字紋印花,並在肩線營造切口的Versace,呈現截然不同的性感。此外,喜歡可愛風格的,可以選Moschino熊熊針織洋裝。崇尚優雅的,也有Trussardi皮革設計提供選擇,徹底開發了鉛筆裙裝的風格潛力。
Trend 4  Elegance and Charm of the Pencil Skirt
Milan is usually about the chic and elegant modern women, and pencil skirts are a must have. Dolce & Gabanna colored theirs with the crayon paintings of kiddies, Max Mara paired them with a baseball jacket, while Versace was looking to Marilyn Monroe for inspiration. Moschino did theirs in a chunky knit, and Trussardi cut theirs out in thin glove leather.

一系列鉛筆裙裝展現女性優雅體態。(由左至右:Max Mara、Moschino、Dolce & Gabbana)

一系列鉛筆裙裝展現女性優雅體態。(由左至右:Max Mara、Moschino、Dolce & Gabbana)

Trend 5  編織時尚 針織風潮不死
最後,延續2014年針織熱潮,米蘭2015秋冬女裝週,再次將這個經典面料,運用的淋漓盡致。從最基本,Bottega Veneta印有圓點圖樣的V領針織衫、Gucci飾有花鳥刺繡的針織上衣,一步步衍伸成Blumarine翻領針織洋裝;Moschino小可愛搭配貼身長褲的露肚針織裝,以及呈現蕾絲般的繁複輪廓,Salvatore Ferragamo的細肩帶針織洋裝。再加上以針織見長的Missoni,所推出五花八門的精湛設計,除了提供更加豐富的品項選擇,也預告針織風潮將於今年秋冬繼續發熱。
Trend 5  Knitted Fashion Forever
A Fall and Winter collection cannot be complete without the existence of knitted designs. Bottega Veneta was polka dot crazy this season, so there were knitted polka dot sweaters, Gucci had embroidered knitwear tops, and Blumarine gave us knitted dresses, and Moschino bared the midriffs in their knitted tops, while Ferragamo did is simple and chic in strappy dresses. Missoni also piled crazy prints onto their knitwear, and there will be plenty of knitwear options to choose from this year. 
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針織熱潮,延燒到米蘭2015秋冬女裝週。(由左至右:Salvatore Ferragamo、Missoni、Blumarine)

針織熱潮,延燒到米蘭2015秋冬女裝週。(由左至右:Salvatore Ferragamo、Missoni、Blumarine)

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