米蘭2015秋冬女裝報導之五:世上只有媽媽好 Dolce & Gabbana打親子溫馨牌
Milan AW 2014 Woman’s Collection: It’s Mother’s Day at Dolce & Gabbana


Gaia Trussardi回歸品牌的根本,運用極為輕薄的手套皮革作為設計主軸。

Gaia Trussardi回歸品牌的根本,運用極為輕薄的手套皮革作為設計主軸。

而Marni這季主題則是「扭曲的女性主義」(Twisted Femininity),從開場的模特兒Sophia Ahrens身上便可以強烈感受到,一頭往後梳得瀟灑的長髮和身上白色罩衫束以寬黑皮帶,並搭配著斜背包氣勢十足,彷彿一位即將勇赴戰場的女戰士。而寬皮帶的束腰設計更是貫穿全場,搭被中性剪裁的寬肩,誇大的口袋,讓人有種高山民族服飾的意象。而整場秀上豐富的各種面料,皮草隨意的蓬鬆邊緣,以及蛇紋束腰更加顯現出自然本色的粗獷感,有著手工製作的意象。

這季Marni以皮草和大塊布料打造的強勢女性形象。

這季Marni以皮草和大塊布料打造的強勢女性形象。

米蘭新銳品牌MSGM,四年前便是以印花系列起家,而這一季卻背其道而行,開場的數套造型都為單色簡約設計,有趣的大蝴蝶結圍巾成為了視覺焦點。之後便開始出現各種繽紛色彩於實穿的針織上衣、長外套與背心、褲裝甚至是皮草大衣上互相衝撞,挑戰視覺。整場秀上雖然也有出現一些有趣的單品,如皺褶大愛心裝飾的短裙和上衣,但整體設計也只能算是差強人意。««

MSGM嘗試以色彩代替標誌性的印花風格,卻略顯沒有視覺重心。

MSGM嘗試以色彩代替標誌性的印花風格,卻略顯沒有視覺重心。

»»If their men’s collection was a celebration of family, it made perfect sense that Dolce & Gabbana’s women’s show would focus on the Mother figure, who is the focus of the family. There were plenty of mothers onstage, and Dolce veteran Bianca Balti cat walked with her huge baby bump, a proud mother-to-be. Viva La Mamma! There were prints and embroideries based on drawings by Domenico’s nieces and nephews, and the rose motif was center to the collection, as Stefano’s favorite childhood memory of his own mother is the rose scent of her red lipstick. Salvatore Ferragamo isn’t a brand bothered by trends. Massimiliano Giornetti, its creative director, has been steering the brand in a classic but not conservative direction, and it is a throwback to the vintage moments of the 70s and 80s. 

Missoni gave us a splash of prints and colors that seemed to be put together in each and every way possible. It may seem like a random assault to your senses, but it also has its own order within the chaos. Trussardi, gave us a collection that spoke to the essentials of the brand, militaristic coats and skirts were cut in a glove-making leather so liquid and thin that it moved with the ease of fabric. Consuelo Castiglioni mentioned “twisted femininity” as a reference point for her new Marni collection, and we did see it in the Amazonian warrior like tunics with cross-body bags, and all lot of fur and rough textures. Upcoming brand MSGM was born from prints, but at today’s show, there was a big step away from that. In that regard, the coats with the wrapped-tie necks had a certain polish and cuteness, the pieces sewn here and there with giant hearts were interesting, but the collection as a whole didn’t quite connect.««

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