米蘭2015秋冬男裝報導之五 :強調戶外休閒主題 褲管變鬆針織毛料熱門
Mlian 2015AW Men’s Collection Trend Report


寬鬆的褲型是米蘭2015秋冬男裝重頭戲。(左起Bottega Veneta、Vivienne Westwood與Versarce 2015秋冬男裝)

寬鬆的褲型是米蘭2015秋冬男裝重頭戲。(左起Bottega Veneta、Vivienne Westwood與Versarce 2015秋冬男裝)

»»米蘭2015秋冬男裝裝沒有倫敦大肆推崇厚重羽絨和皮草,反選擇厚重紮實的料子抗寒,在顏色選擇部分,似乎有意呼應大地蕭瑟景象,Earth Tone土色大地自然感色譜全數出動,而男裝線條也變鬆垮許多,把大腿繃緊緊的窄版設計暫退二軍地位。雖然米蘭這一季仍以正規西裝為軸心,但隨近來休閒運動主題興盛,不少設計師以戶外為靈感發想軸心,鼓勵男人外出上街頭,別悶在家,同時帶大家回味一下貴族紳士的休閒生活,例如野外狩獵。

伸展台刻意營造大地蕭瑟的戶外景象,旨在點出戶外休閒仍是本季秋冬焦點,圖為John Varvatos  2015秋冬男裝會場。

伸展台刻意營造大地蕭瑟的戶外景象,旨在點出戶外休閒仍是本季秋冬焦點,圖為John Varvatos 2015秋冬男裝會場。

Trend 1哈里斯毛料興懷舊浪潮 男人褲管變鬆了
就結構輪廓來說,米蘭2015秋冬男裝明顯將線條放鬆許多,無論是大衣外套或者是褲子版型,寬、鬆、垮是基本潮流趨勢。Jil Sander在新設計師Rodolfo Paglialunga掌舵下,大衣oversise,明顯加寬下襬寬度,Prada炒作極簡熱潮同時,雖然一票黑,竟也朝箱型輪廓前進,尤其短版夾克的方梯形狀明顯,僅透過口袋縫線造型,在黑中創造細微層次。把褲管甚至褲襠變寬鬆的,還有Bottega Veneta、Etro與、Ermenegildo Zegna,而Vivienne Westwood提出中性概念結合英倫薩維爾訂製街西裝傳統,在結構線條裡解放了男裝。也玩性別戲碼的Gucci,全放寬了男人的褲頭。

不少設計師把褲管都變寬鬆了,連用料織品都選擇舒適材質。(左起Bottega Veneta、Gucci與Jil Sander 2015秋冬男裝)

不少設計師把褲管都變寬鬆了,連用料織品都選擇舒適材質。(左起Bottega Veneta、Gucci與Jil Sander 2015秋冬男裝)

這季秋冬不容置喙針織毛料大流行,Versace都內搭針織長衫配西裝外套,管它內層露出大半截,相信花孔雀仍愛得不了。但戶外題材夯,要如何抵禦急凍低溫,光靠羽絨皮草不夠力,哈里斯毛料(Harris Tweed)意外在2015秋冬成亮點,Ermenegildo Zegna採用手工打造的哈里斯毛料針織,同時摻入PVC塗層處理,變化多樣織品種類;Etro則利用該織品混紡花草圖騰,呈現別於經典格紋的花俏質感。其他如Missoni與Stella Jean等,皆有系列男裝展出。
Trend 1  Retro Harris Tweeds and Baggy Trousers
The silhouettes on display at this year’s Fall Winter show were baggier than the usually skintight and tailored designs at Milan. Whether it was coats or trousers, it was all oversized and baggy. Rodolfo Paglialunga’s debut for Jil Sander showed plenty of oversized coats, and Prada played with minimalism but still created boxy shapes in their jackets. Bottega Veneta, Etro, and Ermenegildo Zegna all loosened up their pants and Vivienne Westwood sent out a parade of androgynous Saville Row suits, liberating the strict gender rules of menswear designs, as did Gucci.

Knitwear is a must for Fall and Winter collections, and this year’s comeback star is the retro-styled Harris Tweed, seen on the knitted tops at Ermenegildo Zegna, and Etro juxtaposed Harris Tweed with floral prints, and Missoni and Stella Jean all utilized this classis textile.

米蘭2015秋冬男裝周不時可見針織軟呢毛料被搬上伸展台。(左起Ermenegildo Zegna、Etro與Missoni 2015秋冬男裝)

米蘭2015秋冬男裝周不時可見針織軟呢毛料被搬上伸展台。(左起Ermenegildo Zegna、Etro與Missoni 2015秋冬男裝)

Trend 2 大地Earth Tone搶戲 不敗軍裝元素
若仔細比較米蘭各大男裝品牌,會發現大地Earth Tone土色系列很夯,Fendi 2015秋冬力推燈芯絨,更搭上大地自然順風車,利用拼接概念雕塑外衣版型;崇尚杜勒藝術的Etro,無論是pony小馬毛或麂皮毛料,鋪天蓋地的土色席捲而來,看得到一片秋葉蕭瑟景象。Versace、Tod’s與John Varvatos亦加入Earth Tone陣容。

Earth Tone大地自然基調為米蘭2015秋冬男裝主要用色之一。(左起Etro、Tod’s與Fendi 2015秋冬男裝)

Earth Tone大地自然基調為米蘭2015秋冬男裝主要用色之一。(左起Etro、Tod’s與Fendi 2015秋冬男裝)

對男裝來說,運動題材和軍裝元素最為常見,今年秋冬軍裝依然沒有缺席潮流趨勢論壇,尤以飛行員輪廓結構最得設計師寵愛,彷彿說著男人前幾大志願清單裡,不是擁有重機跑車,要不期望飛上青天。Moncler Gamme Bleu秋冬主題最顯著,上世紀50年代氛圍濃厚,空軍部隊生活與羽絨衣及西裝剪裁三合一;Neil Barrett沒明說與軍裝有關,可整個綠色大軍結合幾何色塊線條,意圖不言而喻。很喜歡異國混搭的設計師Antonio Marras,配合街頭元素,很大方地將迷彩與皮草全數注入男裝設計,讓嚴肅軍裝變得輕快許多。而講到輕快,Diesel Black Gold的學院龐克,誕生了重機夾克混搭飛行員裝的輪廓,充斥著標記勳章,縱使主題圍繞經典重搖滾樂團,仍令人印象深刻。 
Trend 2  Earthy Tones and Military Elements Win Out 
The color palette this year was earthy tones all in the color of fall leaves and our muddy earth, seen at Fendi with their corduroy pants, while Etro used pony hair and suede materials, other brands such as Versace, Ermenegildo Zegna, Tod’s, and John Varvatos were also big on earthy tones.

Military elements are never absent from menswear designs, with aviator silhouettes being the most favored. Moncler Gamme Bleu went all in on the aviation theme, Neil Barrett was more subtle with their military references, with only military green and geometric color blocks showing. Antonio Marras blended camouflage prints into streetwear styles, and Diesel Black Gold was preppy punk which utilized the aviator bomber jacket styles decorated with patches and badges.

迷彩軍裝在男裝各季潮流中不時可見。(左起Antonio Marras、Neil Barrett與Moncler Gamme Bleu 2015秋冬男裝)

迷彩軍裝在男裝各季潮流中不時可見。(左起Antonio Marras、Neil Barrett與Moncler Gamme Bleu 2015秋冬男裝)


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