米蘭2015秋冬男裝報導之五 :強調戶外休閒主題 褲管變鬆針織毛料熱門
Mlian 2015AW Men’s Collection Trend Report


Trend 3 戶外出遊主題夯  居家睡褲也上場
秋冬縱然寒風冷冽,許多品牌依然鼓勵男人往外跑,興起了冬季戶外出遊念頭,於是各式禦寒大衣、厚重外套相繼曝光,好滿足各種娛樂主題需求,踏青狩獵題材、披披掛掛的波西亞米流浪風格以及飛行重機運動等,設計師全都設想周全。Ermenegildo Zegna融合高山狩獵訴求,抗寒長版大衣特地選做工紮實毛料與絲絨素材,讓男裝看起來視覺雖有厚度,卻能穿出硬挺感。Salvatore Ferragamo和Missoni是標準華麗瀟灑多層次穿插,大針織圍巾圍裹軟呢厚料,隨民俗藝術印花和幾何格紋圖騰,提升繁複裝飾美感。Tod’s和John Varvatos也不約而同提出冬日戶外活動想像,只是各對不同年代做出瑰麗遙想。另外Fendi則替外出男性設想,在大圍巾多編織大口袋造型,好方便隨身攜帶平板,或者讓陪伴同行的女友可將手插放口袋,製造約會浪漫。

秋冬戶外健走踏青甚至來場貴族從事的狩獵活動,這一季米蘭秋冬男裝很有感。(左起Ermenegildo Zegna、John Varvatos與Fendi 2015秋冬男裝)

秋冬戶外健走踏青甚至來場貴族從事的狩獵活動,這一季米蘭秋冬男裝很有感。(左起Ermenegildo Zegna、John Varvatos與Fendi 2015秋冬男裝)

或許受到冬日布料選擇影響,針織毛呢類其實在米蘭男裝周大行其道,像Versace、Etro、Giorgio Armani與Fendi等皆有大量針織設計發表,而且不單只有上衣款式,褲裝也淪陷,且褲裝不再是正統西裝版型或休閒丹寧當道,居家睡褲輪廓居然瞬間變得好夯,我更推測品牌們有向中古世紀男子衣著取經,讓內搭褲又流行回來了。好比Versace的針織內搭褲、Vivienne Westwood摻入花不溜丟印花圖騰,讓褲子看起來更像居家睡衣。除此,這與設計師挑色有關,原本正式日裝男褲邊訴求寬鬆結構、邊採用灰色或大地色調下,很容易讓褲型看起來更像居家室內休閒衣,如Dolce & Gabbana和Emprio Armani也有類似款式發表,Antonio Marras的棉襖縫绗格紋還從休閒帽T一路延伸到褲裝。
Trend 3  In Tune with Outdoor and Woolen Wear 
Though the winter cold may not make it seem like the best of times to go outdoors, we see many designs geared towards outdoor designs. Ermenegildo Zegna prepped their men for mountain hunting , with long coats in wool and velvet, while Salvatore Ferragamo and Missoni layered their men up to fight the cold. Tod’s and John Varvatos also evoked images of outdoor activity with their designs, and Fendi even added pocket to their scarf designs, a plus for girlfriends who might not have a place for their cold hands.

Woolen fabrics are also the choice for winterwear, and we see them present at Versace, Etro, Giorgio Armani, and Fendi. Versace even designed woolen leggings, and Vivienne Westwood added floral prints to her legging designs, is the legging making a comeback for men now? The look of the wide-legged Japanese kimono pants for men could be seen at Dolce & Gabbana and Emprio Armani, Antonio Marras gave us a version of the kimono design on his sweatshirt and pants combination.

注意男裝下半身,睡褲結合休閒褲與內搭legging,又再次回到主潮流懷抱。(左起Versace、Vivienne Westwood與Emprio Armani 2015秋冬男裝)

注意男裝下半身,睡褲結合休閒褲與內搭legging,又再次回到主潮流懷抱。(左起Versace、Vivienne Westwood與Emprio Armani 2015秋冬男裝)

Trend 4 機能後背包 適合帥氣旅行
倫敦男裝配件流行提袋大一點,好滿足容量機能需求,米蘭2015秋冬對提包尺寸倒沒那麼苛刻,但卻稍微偏愛後背包。Dolece & Gabbana和Fendi皆推出後背包款設計,前者即便選用皮革素材,運動風尚主題濃烈,外加Love、Family標籤裝飾,讓向來給人老氣橫秋義大利男品牌形象瞬間變得年輕許多。Fendi也有它淘氣面,奢華皮草背包口袋刻意露一塊,設計成足球色塊拼接狀,突出形狀看久了,倒有龜殼安全帽奇特異想。

機能背包滿足男士秋冬戶外出遊。(左起Dolece & Gabbana、Ermenegildo Zegna與Fendi 2015秋冬男裝配件)

機能背包滿足男士秋冬戶外出遊。(左起Dolece & Gabbana、Ermenegildo Zegna與Fendi 2015秋冬男裝配件)

Ermenegildo Zegna搭上戶外主題,發表系列多口袋機能包,隨你怎麼背出門,只是它沒有像Fendi那麼多皮草顏色選擇,大地咖啡茶色,標準男人色,最特別的是腰包設計,相當適合都會男野外紮營度假使用。除此之外,搭配戶外題材,2015秋冬防雨水防滑膠鞋雨靴比運動休閒鞋更有亮點,Dolece & Gabbana刺繡拼花皮草威靈頓雨鞋版、Moncler Gamme Bleu雨靴與Ermenegildo Zegna適合登山健走的防滑膠鞋都是秋冬超夯配件選擇。
Trend 4  Utility Backpacks for Travelling
There were a trend of backpacks on the catwalk at Milan, and could be seen at the  Dolce & Gabbana and Fendi shows, a dash of sportiness and energy in the formal looks. Ermenegildo Zegna continued their outdoor theme from last season, and multi-pocket bags were a hit, though they weren’t as fancy as the fur-lined versions at Fendi.  Dolce & Gabbana gave us Wellington boots with floral embroidery, while Moncler Gamme Bleu rain boots, and Ermenegildo Zegna plastic soled shoes that don’t slip were the perfect winter choices.««

米蘭2015秋冬男裝配件有新玩意,那就是膠鞋雨靴,呼應這一季戶外主題。(左起Dolece & Gabbana、Ermenegildo Zegna與Moncler Gamme Bleu 2015秋冬男鞋)

米蘭2015秋冬男裝配件有新玩意,那就是膠鞋雨靴,呼應這一季戶外主題。(左起Dolece & Gabbana、Ermenegildo Zegna與Moncler Gamme Bleu 2015秋冬男鞋)

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