米蘭2016秋冬女裝報導之一:Gucci文藝復興風格強烈 Roberto Cavalli忠於狂野
Milan 2016 AW Women’s Collection:Gucci on the Renaissance


Roberto Cavalli不僅服裝走奢華路線,連秀場也極盡華美。

Roberto Cavalli不僅服裝走奢華路線,連秀場也極盡華美。

»»米蘭女裝周隆重登場,首日,便有重量級的Gucci,為整個時裝周,創造噱頭十足的開場。精湛的刺繡,Gucci維持一貫文藝復興風格,Alessandro Michele風格清晰可見;Alberta Ferretti寬鬆剪裁,睡衣潮勢不可擋;Roberto Cavalli動物紋加皮草,還有點Glam Rock風格;Blugirl多層次穿搭,薄紗透印花,一切浪漫至上。

Alessandro Michele接掌設計之位一年,不僅為品牌增添了不少了營業額,更獲得諸多好評,Gucci宛如進入另一場盛世。秋冬女裝,以法國皇后凱薩琳(Catherine de Medici)為繆思,維持一貫文藝復興風格同時,刺繡圖騰悄悄改變,卻從中國的鳳凰和設計師自行想像的鳥類,轉變為充滿神秘感的三頭蛇、真實之眼等。融合了文藝復興時期、街頭風格、70年代等風華,都是Michele的心之所向,為女裝囊括諸多元素。這一場華麗的視覺饗宴,除了精湛的刺繡外,奢華的皮草元素,或是落肩的設計,以及公主袖,都讓人為之讚嘆。加入了布魯克林藝術家Trevor Andrew(又名GucciGhost)之助,配件上的雙G Logo變得更加大膽,其中一款手袋上,用塗鴉手法寫上的「Real」大字,更凸顯出設計師的街頭元素。 

Gucci秋冬女裝,布料上的刺繡,除了花卉,還多了許多三頭蛇等神秘圖騰。

Gucci秋冬女裝,布料上的刺繡,除了花卉,還多了許多三頭蛇等神秘圖騰。

「狂野」一直是Roberto Cavalli的品牌中心思想,當然今年秋冬女裝也不例外。蛇紋、豹紋、虎紋等清晰可見;輪廓上,則融入些許波希米亞風情,以及復古搖滾的元素。材質上,除了奢華的絨布外,設計師Peter Dundas似乎對丹寧情有獨鍾,無論襯衫或是褲款,都能看見;裸紗持續在Roberto Cavalli的秀上發燒,設計師表示,他所創造出的女裝,是不畏世俗眼光,展現自我風格的女性剪影。

Roberto Cavalli設計師Peter Dundas表示,秋冬女裝是稍早發布男裝的衍伸。

Roberto Cavalli設計師Peter Dundas表示,秋冬女裝是稍早發布男裝的衍伸。

與Alexander McQueen撞題,以睡夢為靈感來源,Alberta Ferretti卻以「睡美人的睡衣」為出發點,打造出充滿寬鬆剪裁的休閒女裝。雖說充滿舒適的剪裁,但細節的要求仍高,例如亮面的絲絨布料,以及蕾絲,皮草等元素,搭配上取材於大自然的花卉和樹幹剪影印花,即使是秋冬,也能感受到生命力。

Alberta Ferretti寬鬆剪裁,睡衣風格強烈。

Alberta Ferretti寬鬆剪裁,睡衣風格強烈。

同樣以輕鬆的線條來呈現秋冬女裝,Blugirl的設計師Anna Molinari表示,秋冬女裝結合了舒適,一點點浪漫,還有一點點女性的美麗。模特腳上誇張的絨毛涼鞋,配件上的皮草,完美闡述了「舒適」(Cozy)的概念,而服裝上的印花,或是色塊的拼湊,或是繽紛的花朵,讓觀眾體會到「浪漫」。兩件式的薄紗上衣、過膝長裙,似乎是想表達「美麗」的概念,但太過刻意所創造的層次,卻讓人覺得有點不協調。««

Blugirl以薄紗和印花,表現女性的浪漫及美麗風情。

Blugirl以薄紗和印花,表現女性的浪漫及美麗風情。

»»Milan Fashion Week started with the huge presentation of Gucci yesterday. It’s been a year since Alessandro Michele took over the helm of Gucci with his Renaissance style and embroideries of delicate birds and flowers. This time, the pattern changed into some mysterious symbols like three-head snakes and the eye of truth instead. Mixed with Renaissance, street style and 70s, Michele brought a brilliant show to the audiences. Helped by Trevor Andrew, some graffiti-like paintings showed on the accessories as well. Wild has been the main idea of Roberto Cavalli and the designer seemed to keep it that way. Peter Dundas claimed the women’s collection was the continuation of his men’s collection. With the furs and animal patterns, he sure did keep the tradition style of the label.

Alberta Ferretti inspired by the dreams of women and created a collection which women could wear to sleep and also to the shopping malls. With the velvet fabric and furs combined with relaxed silhouette, we seemed to see the pajamas trend is keep coming. Blugirl on the other hand, use laces and chiffons to present the romance, relaxed style and pretty of women.  ««

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