紐約2013春夏女裝特別報導之七:設計師周遊列國 次文化攻佔舞台
New York SS2013 Women’s Collections : A Multi-Cultural Parade


甫從破產危機中爬出來的Betsey Johnson,立刻煥發青春活力,將2013春夏時裝秀當成自己的70歲生日派對,請來老朋友Cyndi Lauper獻唱。在歌聲中走出,整套服裝系列,可謂美國流行文化大匯串,從60年代嬉皮味濃厚的燈芯絨、蝴蝶結與Mods風條紋,70年代大尖翻領與龐克網襪鉚釘,80年代Power Suit與皮草大衣,90年代Grunge風帽T混搭,乃至海灘女郎與芭蕾舞女不一而足。Betsey Johnson飽和霓虹色調依舊大膽,與鯊魚胸衣、兔女郎耳朵等惡搞創意相映成趣,而秀末6呎高的真人生日蛋糕,更將氣氛推向高潮。

Betsey Johnson借秀場歡慶生日。

Betsey Johnson借秀場歡慶生日。

Reed Krakoff本季很坦白地表示自己的靈感來自於「性」與「Helmut Lang」,以米白、駝色等自然色調為主軸,設計師從Helmut Lang處借來了不對稱拼接與透視手法,搭配大量鱷魚、蟒蛇壓印皮革,組合出意外簡潔清新的系列,可謂比目前的Helmut Lang品牌更神似原作。與阿湯哥婚變鬧得沸沸揚揚的Katie Holmes,品牌Holmes & Yang也於本季迎來處女秀,但以直白套裝與連身裙為主的系列,則顯得有幾分乏味,或許Katie Holmes該把向妮可基嫚討教離婚經的時間,拿來多和Victoria Beckham偷學幾招才是。««

Reed Krakoff(左、中)本季師法Helmut Lang,Holmes & Yang(右)處女秀有待加強。

Reed Krakoff(左、中)本季師法Helmut Lang,Holmes & Yang(右)處女秀有待加強。

»»While New York Fashion Week is drawing to an end, the frenzy on subcultures continues. Other than the much referenced 60s mods, hip-hop, punk, hippie and grunge each had their fair share on this day. Exoticism has been another hot theme, as designers concentrated on the Middle East and India alike.

Michael Kors this season went southbound, taking cues from architects John Lautner and Richard Neutra. The vibrant geometric shapes of architecture were combined with that of 60s mods, for a mood of Californian easy living. At Marchesa, designers Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig drew inspiration from Indian guru Maharishi, but ended up with a far more lavish version than the guru’s austere attire, the combination between the sari, rich embroidery and laces was more akin to Bollywood.

Jeremy Scott’s collection was literally a fashionable rendition of The Dictator. However, veils, exotic prints and backpack bombs notwithstanding, the overall mood was still very much rooted in New York. On the same page of merging cultures, Anna Sui took a number of punk elements and combined them with the decors by Madeleine Castaing.

At Proenza Schouler, designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez experimented 3D printing on leathers, incorporating the works by Gerhard Richter as well as several photos, while continuing to work on the treatments from previous seasons. Revived from bankruptcy, Betsey Johnson went right back on track, turning the show into her 70th birthday party, combined with the 90 looks based on various sub-cultures, Betsey Johnson is just as crazy as ever.

Reed Krakoff was very blunt on borrowing elements from Helmut Lang, the collection however, while being reminiscent to the retired masters, might have been stronger than what the current Helmut label is offering. Katie Holmes’ label Holmes & Yang’s debut today was somewhat of a dull number, perhaps Katie should have spent more time on the collection rather than her divorce.««

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