紐約2013春夏女裝特別報導之六:繁複裝飾風格百變 街頭塗鴉登大雅之堂
New York SS2013 Women’s Collections : Street Style Conquered New York Runways


Narciso Rodriguez延續一貫的優雅與簡練線條,以精細的布料接合技巧,在服裝上大玩色塊拼接。「我嘗試以設計大師Vionnet與Balenciaga的作品為雛型,為其賦予更摩登的樣貌。」Narciso Rodriguez解釋。同時服裝剪裁雖然繁複,但感官上卻沒顯得笨重,服裝在模特兒行走間反而展現高度空氣流動感,顯現出設計技巧的精湛。

Narciso Rodriguez看似簡單的服裝輪廓,其實暗藏繁複做工。

Narciso Rodriguez看似簡單的服裝輪廓,其實暗藏繁複做工。

擔任Diesel Black Gold設計師的最後一場秀,Sophia Kokosalaki 回顧還身為倫敦聖馬丁學院學生的時刻,並以當時上世紀90年代的美學風格為本季服裝定調。一系列網格鏤空洋裝與紗質布料拼接而成的洋裝設計,讓女模在行走間曲線畢露。搭配上一系列騎士夾克,讓女人亦可性感亦可帥氣。塗鴉風格印花則是系列服裝另一主軸,靈感源於倫敦公園溜冰場邊的街頭藝術,為嚴肅的服裝風格注入趣味態度。««

Sophia Kokosalaki 繳出帥氣與街頭感兼具的服裝,作為Diesel Black Gold的告別作。

Sophia Kokosalaki 繳出帥氣與街頭感兼具的服裝,作為Diesel Black Gold的告別作。

»»Complicated decorations and delicate designs are featured in 2013 New York Fashion Week. From tassels patterns, metal decoration, to leathers and embroideries, the designs appeared to be fashionable and rich at the same time. In addition of the street graffiti patterns, Diesel Black Gold and Oscar de al Renta shined their 2013 SS design to a state of rebel but exquisite with elegancy.

Rodarte used middle age corset as their design theme for 2013 SS collection. By elaborates different styles designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy manipulated from corset, metal material and leather are their best friend that emphasized solid and three dimensional designs of metal armors with delicate silk material to emphasize the elegancy of design. Marc by Marc Jacobs, on the other hand, kept the style casual in this years’ runway. By highlighting oversize style and stripes, audiences cannot ignore abundant styles and combinations of layers that appeal the youngness of entire collections. Oscar de la Renta, as usual, kept his elegancy in his designs. Whiling using plentiful feather, lace, and decorations, de la Renta managed to add in the street style graffiti but still revealing feminine beauty in his collection.

Vera Wang is globalizing the collection in 2013. With resplendent patterns to reveal the royal part of Indian culture, the heavy eastern Asia taste has applied on Vera Wang’s SS collection that full with imagination. Following the style of internationalizing designs, Tory Burch stayed in U.S. and applied heavy mid-west American style to the 2013 SS collection with her colorful and island patterns. Narciso Rodriguez continued the elegancy and simple design with exquisite material and cuttings. With airy designs, he showed the world his master skills in design. Diesel Black Gold, as the last show of the day, decided to use 90’s as their main theme to emphasize the sexiness and frank of the past.««

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