紐約2012秋冬女裝特別報導之十: 帥氣女性當道 箱型輪廓出線
New York FW2012 Women’s Collections Trend Report


Trend 3: 寬大輪廓正當道 
隨著中性與男裝線條主導下,繭型與箱型輪廓塑造今年秋冬服裝的分量感,也成為秀台上戲劇感營造的手段。BCBG Max Azria以今年火熱的皮草接在皮夾克袖子,蓬鬆堆出肩膀圓弧的線條與厚度;Ports 1961以連袖剪裁,替金屬幾何色塊外套營造具圓弧空間結構。Marc Jacobs的寬大輪廓則蔓延到鐘型裙與誇張的帽飾,讓模特兒瞬間視覺比例變成古靈精怪的少女。Thom Browne也延續品牌男裝的鐘樓怪人風格,以墊肩或甚至外接錐形,演出古怪誇張的棺材回魂秀。

Oversize不只有現代外套版本,也蔓延到戲劇化的秀台表演上。(由左到右BCBG Max Azria、Port 1961、Marc Jacobs、Thom Browne)

Oversize不只有現代外套版本,也蔓延到戲劇化的秀台表演上。(由左到右BCBG Max Azria、Port 1961、Marc Jacobs、Thom Browne)

Oversize Chic
Cocoon and box silhouettes would be the best interpretation of oversize chic and BCBG Max Azria’s fur jacket and Port 1961’s metallic coat proved that. But exaggeration of body’s proportions may be another approach. Marc Jacobs made oversized headwear and bell-shape skirts to form naughty girls and Thom Browne added padding to exaggerate the shoulder and breasts, echoing the designer’s preference for dramatic effect.

Trend4:極簡復甦
極簡主義對設計師而言可謂是最困難的挑戰,如何在看似平淡的基本款式中,以最少的比例與細節變化,凸顯出服裝的本質與女性的簡潔氣質,完全仰賴設計師對微米之差的敏銳美感。Calvin Klein的2012年秋冬系列絕對是本季極簡風格的佳作,Francisco Costa以精彩的皮革與毛料的結構剪裁,賦予基本款大衣、洋裝流暢的線條與簡約氛圍。Derek Lam的實穿系列則在剪裁線上變化,並利用少量的印花、白黃黑色的緹花布與少許羅紋運動元素,增添多元細節。3.1 Phillip Lim與Helmut Lang也以極簡線條為主軸,但前者則利用色塊拼接錯視,在基本套裝添加視覺趣味;而後者則利用不對襯剪裁的斜線與弧線,交織各種黑色材質的低調變化。

設計師以比例、材質與剪裁線條中,替極簡風下各種註解。(由左到右Calvin Klein、Derek Lam、3.1 Phillip Lim、Helmut Lange)

設計師以比例、材質與剪裁線條中,替極簡風下各種註解。(由左到右Calvin Klein、Derek Lam、3.1 Phillip Lim、Helmut Lange)

Minimalism Revival
Minimalism is always the difficult challenge for designers because that requires excellent cutting to form a perfect shape. Francisco Costa cleverly sewed leather and woolens to form a perfect interpretation of this style for Calvin Klein. Derek Lam put emphasized in print, colors and sporty elements to create its own minimal style. 3.1 Phillip Lim and Helmut Lang interpreted their minimalism by manipulating different colors or textures.

Trend5:遠東的異國幻想 
時間與地理的間隔都能激發設計師無盡的幻想,而這回東方與澳洲大陸都是取經對象。Jason Wu組合西方剪裁與中國清朝官服和旗袍元素,讓女模魚貫從朱紅宮門中,由歷史走向現代。Vivian Tam安插龍紋和Proenza Schouler的東洋圖騰,替純然西式剪裁的單品,點妝東方風味。Zac Posen不僅使用紋樣,也運用摺紙與和服腰帶的結構於其禮服中;以運動風格著稱的Y-3也將東方服裝右衽剪裁(左蓋右的上衣開口結構)運用在休閒單品裡。除了中國與日本外,Miguel Adrover重回伸展台的發表裡,也將中東婦女罩袍與古埃及圖樣等元素安插在他帶戲謔性的秋冬系列服裝中。Rodarte則是將視線遙望南半球,以羊毛、印花與藍紅色調,訴說澳洲大陸的古老想像。

今年東方元素似乎影響不少歐美設計師。(由左到右Jason Wu、Miguel Adrover、Vivian Tam、Y-3)

今年東方元素似乎影響不少歐美設計師。(由左到右Jason Wu、Miguel Adrover、Vivian Tam、Y-3)

Exotic Fantasy
East became a hot topic in New York’s runway. Borrowing print and patterns were popular; Vivian Tam printed Chinese dragons, Proenza Schouler used Japanese patterns, Rodarte painted dresses with colors from Australia and Miguel Adrover looked for ancient Egypt while Zac Posen, Jason Wu and Y-3 attempted to merge some eastern cutting into their western style items.««

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