紐約2014春夏女裝報導之八:薄紗裸腹線條鬆 A Line輪廓熱門


A型輪廓與寬大剪裁為紐約春夏女裝設計定調。(由左至右:Marc Jacobs、Michael Kors、Calvin Klein)

A型輪廓與寬大剪裁為紐約春夏女裝設計定調。(由左至右:Marc Jacobs、Michael Kors、Calvin Klein)

»»紐約時裝週精彩閉幕,為本季春夏女裝趨勢走向打頭陣,崇尚自由的紐約正以強調A Line樣貌吹拂著隨性風格,同時亦有不少寬大oversize主張,解放女人曲線;眾品牌邀請小腹婆大方站出來,提倡不管大肚小肚,只要露肚都是美麗裝束,就算沒有直接秀小腹,也有薄紗輕透設計,若隱若現地展示型體曲線亦為散發魅力的手段之一。嬉皮風格的自由自在和運動跑跳的奔放精神,釋放意志的重重束縛,號召時尚型女們輕鬆作自己,隨心所欲最Happy。

Trend 1 寬大輪廓登台 A Line大熱門
60年代的A型線條於本季復活,Michael Kors、Ralph Lauren、Calvin Klein等紐約代表大牌,紛紛將衣飾剪裁為上窄下寬的裙襬飄飄樣貌,Michael Kors搭配多種腰帶收束腰線後,繼續在下半身開展花開裙飾,輔以碎花和圓點印紋,營造復古優雅氛圍;Ralph Lauren主打A型裙裝秀,開頭以女學生造型走出知性風格,中間七彩色系極簡小洋裝回到70年代迷你裙行列,最後以晚禮服的大A設計劃下完美休止符。看不出腰線的布袋裝和大肩線設計則是紐約設計師討論的另一課題,Calvin Klein隱藏女性妖饒曲線,在大衣、硬挺上衣或是長短洋裝都將輪廓拉直,間或將下擺放寬或是肩上加大,展示極簡中的造型變化。第一次登上時裝週的Opening Ceremony就將上半身線條拉寬,呈現布袋裝樣貌。Alexander Wang則集結兩者之精華,以百褶長短裙完整演繹A字輪廓,又將上季繭型結構轉換成箱型剪裁,不愧是Balenciaga招攬的設計師新星,成熟操演各樣服飾輪廓。

Trend 1 A line and Oversize Silhouette
The A line that was popular in 60’s revived in this season. New York’s notable fashion houses such as Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein presented the beauty of the combination of narrow top and wide bottom. Another oversize theme was explained by Calvin Klein, Opening Ceremony and Alexander Wang, which instilled their unique style for the classic clothing structure.

無論A Line或寬寬大大的剪裁處理,在紐約2014春夏各大品牌皆可見到蹤跡。(由左至右:Ralph Lauren、Calvin Klein、Opening Ceremony)

無論A Line或寬寬大大的剪裁處理,在紐約2014春夏各大品牌皆可見到蹤跡。(由左至右:Ralph Lauren、Calvin Klein、Opening Ceremony)

Trend 2  坦腰露肚裝 半露全露都時尚
露肚裝的風潮從上季趨勢可略見端倪,加上好萊塢明星們的時尚加持,本季正式在紐約時裝伸展台發燒,從規矩地自腰際劃開平行線條,或是直在在腹部開口透氣,穿插外穿式胸衣與各式外套的搭配,兼收豪放與端莊之效,要搭上露肚潮流,型女們請好好縮小腹。Victoria Beckham、Calvin Klein、Marchesa和Reed Krakoff不直接露肚,透著薄紗覆蓋,含蓄地讓小腹若隱若現,雖不見肉感卻引來性感遐思;Marc Jacobs和Vera Wang利用短版外套展現露肚裝的氣勢,Proenza Schouler則以閃亮精緻項鍊飾品將重心移轉到上半身,突顯腰部窈窕曲線;Michael Kors、Rodarte直接穿上比基尼搭配罩衫或外套,還有Rag & Bone的肚兜式上衣,將三件式露肚裝的端莊魅力盡現無遺。另外,Jeremy Scott的性感比基尼,加上設計師喜愛的街頭元素,也是值得一看。

Trend 2  Cross Top
Since last year we previewed the hottest trend in this season, designers all took the trend as fashion icons put on the cross top all over the world. While Victoria Beckham, Calvin Klein, Marchesa and Reed Krakoff covered women’s pretty bellies with gauze, Marc Jacobs, Vera Wang, Proenza Schouler and Michael Kors directly showcased ladies’ elegance of body shape.

露肚裝風潮席捲紐約時裝週,精彩設計各有千秋。(由左至右:Victoria Beckham、Marc Jacobs、Rag & Bone)

露肚裝風潮席捲紐約時裝週,精彩設計各有千秋。(由左至右:Victoria Beckham、Marc Jacobs、Rag & Bone)

Trend 3  透視薄紗再翻新 精巧設計吸睛
薄紗材質與透視感總是春夏不可缺少的涼爽關鍵,不僅在他人眼中視覺效果清新,穿著者也通透舒適,本季除了傳統雪紡紗布料,另有透明感的類防水絲光材質幫襯,以及透明與非透明的異界拼接,為春夏必備的薄紗風格增添新意。以層疊交織的唯美風格為首,Vera Wang的印染潑墨與雙色相拼,充滿意境與綺想之美;sass & bide外罩普普圓點,向內又藏有飄逸開杈長裙,以不同薄紗設計層層趣味;向來甜美嬌媚的Marchesa也絕不會錯過薄紗盛宴,除了上衣透出綴花馬甲的浪漫性感,以雪紡霧像堆摺出猶如羽毛般輕柔光感的夢幻長裙,增添不少屬於夏季獨有的飄飄然。紐約街頭風格強烈的DKNY選擇具有光澤的特殊輕透布料,使用及地長裙與長版風衣的設計,平衡品牌特有的運動風格;Milly的透明感由網眼布料擔當重任,讓螢光色的比基尼上衣和高腰褲,跳出耀眼色彩。但其中最為搶眼的透明設計還是要屬3.1 Phillip Lim的薄紗拼接上衣,金屬色繡紋的礦石剖面圖樣和純透的紗質布料結合,製造出反差中的精確美感。

Trend 3  Transparent Fabric
Gauze fabric and transparent design were the designers’ fave for spring and summer collections. Vera Wong, sass & bide and Marchesa displayed the gauze glamour with layers decoration. DKNY and Milly adopted the trend with transparent water-proof-alike materials and special fabric with tiny holes. However, 3.1 Phillip Lim’s gauze matching embroidery should be the most eye-catching design.

通透薄紗精彩創意予以視覺清涼感。(由左至右:Vera Wang、3.1 Phillip Lim、Marchesa)

通透薄紗精彩創意予以視覺清涼感。(由左至右:Vera Wang、3.1 Phillip Lim、Marchesa)

Trend 4  球衣領軍運動潮 誘引動次動次
男裝運動潮流延伸至春夏女裝,當男朋友穿上輕便有型的活動裝束,女朋友也不甘示弱展現嬌媚的活潑女力,尤其棒球外套和圓領衫成為風格主角,平底鞋和球鞋新潮也大幅提升女人活動力。Tommy Hilfiger女裝系列的運動取向,在各個細節都昭然若揭,包括短版圓領衫、挖空拉鍊連身泳衣、籃球球衣洋裝,以及褲頭的半開拉鍊設計,讓女人在香汗淋漓之際也保有高明時尚態度。棒球衣款式在變換材質後,也成為春夏女裝新寵,Marc by Marc Jacobs、Prabal Gurung的球衣外套都有絲質拋光感的柔美反差效果;Reed Krakoff的簡潔設計加上網洞布料,又將拉鍊巧妙掩蓋,秀出熟女氣質;Victoria Beckham的全透明棒球裝令人撲朔迷離;Vera Wang則在外套連接格紋袖套表露巧思。運動潮流也讓伸展台上不見恐怖恨天高,讓平底鞋款闊步行腳,3.1 Phillip Lim、Anna Sui、Marc Jacobs、Tory Burch、Jason Wu都自然地放低身段,涼鞋、帆布鞋、球鞋都有大牌領頭,只要穿高跟鞋就會變成肢體殘障的少女,終於可以舒適地大步遊街。

Trend 4 Sportswear
While Tommy Hilfiger claimed its main theme of the season was sport, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Prabal Gurung, Reed Krakoff, Victoria Beckham and Vera Wang echoed the idea to present their imagination of sport with various baseball jacket design. The flat shoes from 3.1 Phillip Lim, Anna Sui, Marc Jacobs, Tory Burch and Jason Wu also announced that it was the time for women to comfortably walk and run in their chic styles.

棒球、籃球和游泳等運動元素皆融入2014春夏女裝。(由左至右:Prabal Gurung、Marc by Marc Jacobs、Tommy Hilfiger)

棒球、籃球和游泳等運動元素皆融入2014春夏女裝。(由左至右:Prabal Gurung、Marc by Marc Jacobs、Tommy Hilfiger)


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