紐約2016春夏女裝報導之十:春夏蕾絲搶戲 睡衣解構奢華升級
New York 2016 SS Women’s Collection Trend Report


蕾絲元素占了2016春夏紐約女裝周重要比例。(左起Oscar de la Renta、Givenchy和Rodarte)

蕾絲元素占了2016春夏紐約女裝周重要比例。(左起Oscar de la Renta、Givenchy和Rodarte)

»»紐約雖然品牌多,且每季主題鮮明,絕大多數以標準紐約客的美式摩登為主流,像是Michael Kors、Calvin Klein、Altuzarra與Narciso Rodriguez等,相當奉行簡約精神與實穿教條,儘管運動風尚侵襲高級伸展台,潮牌文化也僅限於固定派別。但今年2016春夏發表,紐約正吹起一股小變革,撕裂破壞外加頹廢裝的Grunge風奢華回鍋,春夏時興的蕾絲又將在來年締造流行,就連睡衣襯裙也跟著回溫。

Trend 1  回味傳奇經典  現代藝術大熔爐
2016春夏的紐約充滿了緬懷與致敬意味。Givenchy遠從巴黎而來,選在911辦秀,當天行動表演藝術有部分理由是為了紀念911事件,除此,設計師Riccardo Tisci有更重要的任務,回顧反芻他在Givenchy歷年精彩創作。設計師沉澱釐清自我的,還有Diane von Furstenberg,有數季系列圍繞品牌經典裹身裙,這季春夏一半拿希臘神話幸運女神當輪廓,一半以設計師個人70年代體悟和自身形象,重新詮釋繽紛印花裹身裙。

回顧品牌經典歷史,成了紐約2016春夏女裝周創意源頭。(左起Oscar de la Renta、Diane von Furstenberg和Givenchy)

回顧品牌經典歷史,成了紐約2016春夏女裝周創意源頭。(左起Oscar de la Renta、Diane von Furstenberg和Givenchy)

無獨有偶,品牌Oscar de la Renta在新設計師Peter Copping帶領下,選擇從品牌歷史軌跡找靈感,以Oscar老爺爺生前最愛的康乃馨與常見的西班牙文化,作為春夏女裝楔子。向過去記起永恆精彩的,還有Calvin Klein,向自己1994春夏女裝取材重新演繹。有趣的是設計師們向經典傳奇看齊,對藝術,在這一季竟偏好現代藝術家創作,把畢卡索、克林姆這類歷史流派暫且擱邊。例如Lisa Perry與好友插畫藝術家Robert Irwin,一起變化幾何三原色;Prabal Gurung選擇同鄉尼泊爾畫家Laxman shrestha的水彩暈染,用做工呈現媲美水彩筆觸的瑰麗紋路。Ralph Lauren雖然沒明講2016春夏向現代藝術靠攏,但系列部分女裝和包款配件的三角幾何色塊表現,將帆船標記抽象化,猶如另個藝術殿堂。
Trend 1  Going Modern, Remembering Classics
Givenchy went from Paris to New York for his fashion show. He chose to showcase on 9/11 to remind the viewers about this tragic event. Riccardo Tisci had another motive in mind, to also remind us about Givenchy’s most classical collections. Not only him, designer Diane von Furstenberg also used greek muses as her theme to present her most classical dress collections. Oscar de la Renta and Calvin Klein also chose to showcase their most classical styles this season.

However, designers this season look to modern art for inspiration. Ralph Lauren and Lisa Perry looked for changes in geometric patterns, and Prabal Gurung used water color dying in its’ newest designs.

時尚與藝術頻繁掛勾,紐約似乎較偏好現代藝術。(左起Calvin Klein、Ralph Lauren和Prabal Gurung)

時尚與藝術頻繁掛勾,紐約似乎較偏好現代藝術。(左起Calvin Klein、Ralph Lauren和Prabal Gurung)

Trend 2  春夏蕾絲多情 緞面睡衣穿出門
承襲Calvin Klein取經1994春夏系列,品牌大膽從睡衣出發,2016春夏女裝睡衣輪廓好鮮明,無論絲質緞面材質以及剪裁處理,全從睡衣結構延伸變化。今年回顧10周年、向來以摩登運動為題材的Alexander Wang,亦在新作取巧使用絲光仿睡衣材質布料,點綴蕾絲緞帶修飾,混搭休閒外套,打造睡衣外穿想像。其他像是Givenchy、Prabal Gurung與Vera Wang都有類似創意,尤以Vera Wang黑色透視薄紗,頗有SM性感挑逗意味。特別的還有Kanye West和Adidas聯名的Yeezy系列,春夏大玩肉胎衣。

睡衣輪廓又在2016春夏傾巢而出。(左起Alexander Wang、Vera Wang和Yeezy)

睡衣輪廓又在2016春夏傾巢而出。(左起Alexander Wang、Vera Wang和Yeezy)

春夏最常見到蕾絲織料,紐約女裝周9月迎來許多蕾絲做工巧思。Marchesa不用說,是蕾絲運用高手,雙人組設計師Georgina Chapman與Keren Craig在本季持續發揮紅毯晚服戲碼,利用透視感佳的蕾絲點綴羽毛堆花,大玩若隱若現性感手段,可「現」過了頭,很有機會變身成高級奢華版的蕾絲睡衣。另外,Givenchy這季也運用不少蕾絲,以高訂等級做工拉抬成衣質感;Rodarte的蕾絲裝,則以不規則拼接取勝;以拉菲草變化多種春夏女裝輪廓的Jason Wu,每季亦會挑選數款蕾絲材質,打造優雅女神風範。
Trend 2  Lace Sleepwear for the Outdoors
If you are still not sure if its’ okay to wear your sleepwear on the street, we are telling you now that it’s the latest fashion in town. Alexander Wang used  laces this season, making his usual sportswear a lot like things we wear in bed. Not only him, Givenchy, Prabal Gurung and Vera Wang were all following this trend, to make their look sexier and sleepier.

The use of laces are popular, every designer tried to incorporate it into their latest design. Marchesa is already known for its red carpet collection, but Givenchy, Jason Wu and Rodarte are also going for putting this ladylike fabric on their newest collection this season.

蕾絲薄紗,可搖身變成紅毯華服,也能是睡衣奢華版。(左起Marchesa、Givenchy和Rodarte)

蕾絲薄紗,可搖身變成紅毯華服,也能是睡衣奢華版。(左起Marchesa、Givenchy和Rodarte)

Trend 3  緞帶隨風飄 破爛頹廢華麗出擊
縱使性感蕾絲睡衣重返春夏潮流,這一季紐約還有樣重頭戲,那就是涓長緞帶製造的飄逸流浪感。或許一半受到Grunge頹廢乞丐風啟發,亦有可能是運動題材的緊繩束口的變化延伸,總之,一票如Derek Lem、Hood By Air、Calvin Klein、Michael Kors與Proenza Schouler等,從胸口前襟繫綁綁緞帶,或從袖口打造超級長版流蘇,甚至在腰間頸肩製造垂墜飄逸線條。

緞帶繫綁飄逸作風,在紐約2016春夏女裝周掀起熱潮。(左起Proenza Schouler、Michael Kors和Derek Lem)

緞帶繫綁飄逸作風,在紐約2016春夏女裝周掀起熱潮。(左起Proenza Schouler、Michael Kors和Derek Lem)

撕裂破壞裝,在2016春夏活出自我特色,Hood by Air色彩最明顯,想像加勒比海地區窮人家的校服改造,東挖西拚,真的是「破洞百出」,層層套疊,換句口語表達,零零落落才是亂得有美感。這種東拼西湊的穿搭概念,Marc Jacobs 2016春夏的眾家齊格飛女郎,她們的服裝特色就很有混搭美,無關風格或一致性,華麗地全往身上套疊;Alexander Wang則帶來街頭頹廢搖滾風。
Trend 3  Ribbons for the Decadent Gorgeous Look
Not only are laces popular this season, also are ribbons. However, unlike those girly laces, ribbons are here to make you look more decadent. Brands like Derek Lem、Hood By Air, Calvin Klein, Michael Kors and Proenza Schouler were all on board to utilize ribbons in their collections.

These ribbons add to the clothes in a way that makes these collections look ‘broken.’ To make it simple, the more broken the clothes are this season, the more fashionable it is. Marc Jacobs and Alexander Wang both used irregular patterns to stick pieces of different textured clothes together to create a street decadent look. 

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