莫內印象睡蓮 讓時尚染上一抹自然
Monet and his Impressionism on Fashion


進入成衣世界,睡蓮題材的萬紫千紅,正好與春夏女裝的生意盎然起了絕妙的化學反應。Rochas 2006春夏,設計師Olivier Theyskens以一池睡蓮景色妝點魚尾洋裝,展現沉穩優雅。Akris 2009春夏大玩數位影像印花,斑駁質感搭配繁複色澤、筆觸,印象派風格強烈。同樣美景移至Nicole Farhi 2009春夏伸展台,設計師以吊帶洋裝搭配圓頂草帽,透露鄉村氣息之餘,還顯得輕鬆活潑。2010春夏, Aquilano.Rimondi與BCBG不約而同讓睡蓮畫作覆滿洋裝,前者選擇金屬色澤布料,完美詮釋油畫的濃重質感。後者運用薄透雪紡紗材質,在光線穿透下展現千變萬化色澤。

設計師讓莫內畫作轉變為服裝印花,展現迥異樣貌。(由左至右:Rochas 2006春夏、Aquilano Rimondi 2010春夏、Nicole Farhi 2009春夏)

設計師讓莫內畫作轉變為服裝印花,展現迥異樣貌。(由左至右:Rochas 2006春夏、Aquilano Rimondi 2010春夏、Nicole Farhi 2009春夏)

紐約品牌Carolina Herrera堪稱莫內睡蓮畫作的忠實支持者。品牌2010年春夏婚紗設計,於蓬裙處以手工繪製睡蓮清雅姿態,隱隱自層層白紗透出。2011年早春與春夏女裝同樣可見莫內畫作對服裝的影響,前者色澤柔嫩,如晨曦時分霧氣繚繞的池塘美景,設計師還以「她的莫內」為服裝命名;後者色彩濃重,給人午夜萬籟俱寂感受,讓雞尾酒禮服染上一層靜謐氛圍。

Carolina Herrera經常引用莫內畫作入服裝設計。(由左至右:2011年早春、2011年春夏、2010年春夏婚紗設計)

Carolina Herrera經常引用莫內畫作入服裝設計。(由左至右:2011年早春、2011年春夏、2010年春夏婚紗設計)

而今年,莫內的畫作在伸展台依舊生生不息。Sportmax 2012春夏,設計師以中性褲裝或剛毅的鉚釘裝飾,與柔美印花做衝突混搭。Carlos Miele 2012早秋,設計師波光粼粼的池景印上魚尾洋裝,給人美人魚池畔戲水聯想。Douglas Hannant 2013早春則以近似霓虹的藍綠色澤作為服裝主調,賦予經典畫作摩登容貌。還刻意選擇綠意盎然的庭院做發表場地,營造服裝與茂密植物間相映成趣畫面之餘,也以服裝延續了莫內對光影的終身追求。««

設計師讓服裝做為莫內畫作的展覽舞台。(由左至右:Carlos Miele 2012早秋、Douglas Hannant 2013早春、Sportmax 2012春夏)

設計師讓服裝做為莫內畫作的展覽舞台。(由左至右:Carlos Miele 2012早秋、Douglas Hannant 2013早春、Sportmax 2012春夏)

»»Many people may ask what is the one goal the worth a person to peruse for life? Well, Monet, the master of impressionism, has luckily found the answer in his lifetime. With his insists, he did not just widen the vision of art, but also influenced the fashion in 21st century.

Claude Monet was born in Paris, France. While spending his childhood in the northern part of France, Le Havre, he has a deep impression on the city by the mighty ocean and giant ship side in the ports. As a 10 year old child, Monet has been famous with his sarcasm on art by using exaggerations to portrait every small thing happened to his life. Monet met his art master Eugene Boudin by coincident, who inspired him into an artist and painter in his future. If Monet never met Boudin, he might not turn to the most famous master of impressionism. It was Boudin who led Monet out of his little studio; start to be closer to the nature. As Monet’s background was set in a lowest ladder of society, it gave him more courage to fight on something he wanted. Although his works haven’t been fully accepted to the salon back then, his first gallery in 1874 has set him to the road of mastery of art when he successfully exhibit his great art, “Impression, soleil levant” (1972). The paint has used Harvard as background with the time set on early morning, by using a very proficient skill to create the contrast between light and shadow, the paint was valued by the famous art critic, Lous Leroy, who created the word “Impressionism” by viewing Monet’s art.

Monet love to play with light. The 1890’s rice straw series was the highlight of his painter career. The open grass and rice straw with the dawn light reflected on the objects created an artistic sense of nature beauty. The Rouen Cathedral at dawn also portrayed a reality of the change of light, created an astonished sense of beauty in his painting. Later on his life, Monet moved to Giverny and used pond lilies massively as his portrayed object. With the light’s different reflection on water, the pond lilies paintings have introduced something that was out of his time, the Expressionism.

Monet’s painting did not only influence art greatly, but also have deep influenced upon fashion. In the luxurious ready to wear area, designer Yves Saint Laurent’s 1988 collections used Monet’s pond lilies paintings as muse to create the entire collection. Dior’s 2007 FW collection has also portrayed the beauty of lotus through super model Angela Lindvall. Giambattista Valli’s 2012 FW collection has also inspired from pond lilies, use the idea of naturism to create the reflection of water through the collar of collections.

Furthermore, with Rochas 2006 SS collection designer Olivier Theyskens used pond lilies as the shape base to create the elegancy through the beauty of the scenery. Akris 2009 SS was also playing with patterns on pond lilies. With the colorful palette inspired from Monet’s work, the collection produced a sense of youngness and liveliness. In 2010, moreover, Aquilano Rimondi and BCBG both played with luminosity and used pond lilies as their pattern to create a painting on Chiffon’s feeling. New York’s Carolia Herrera is a huge fan of Monet’s pond lilies. In 2010’s bridal collections, the embroidery with silk has ignited a strong feeling of Monet’s impressionism. This has also appeared in 2011 SS collections while the designer referred the collections as “her Monet”.

This year, Monet’s paintings are still very active on the runways. Sportmax 2012 SS collection was using the unisexual decoration and feminine patterns to mix-match the sense of Monet. Carlos Miele 2012 early autumn collection has also played with light to create the feeling of waves in the water. Douglas Hannant 2013 SS collection chose to use neon blue-green color as the main theme to paint Monet’s painting on to the collections in order to solute Monet on his mastery of games on lights.««

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