蜘蛛女Louise Bourgeois 崇拜陽具的藝術家
Louise Bourgeois' Declaration of Penis and Spider


Louis Bourgeois還進行了一系列布娃娃作品,包含「Do Not Abandon Me,1999」、「Seven in a Bed,2001」等。同時,其知名的大型裝置藝術系列「Cell」,也在這個時期展開。前者以人形布娃娃展現親子間的關係與愛、恨情緒。後者在特定空間陳設各式具象徵意義的物品,反映了藝術家不同層面的恐懼,也隱含了觀看與被看之間的哲學性思考。

除了蜘蛛,Louis Bourgeois的布娃娃、Cell系列創作也極具知名度。(左:「Do not abandon me,1999」、右:「Cell (Eyes and Mirrors),1989-93」)

除了蜘蛛,Louis Bourgeois的布娃娃、Cell系列創作也極具知名度。(左:「Do not abandon me,1999」、右:「Cell (Eyes and Mirrors),1989-93」)

2003年,Louis Bourgeois獲得了年度沃爾夫藝術獎(Wolf Prize in Arts),因為在她長期的創作生涯裡頭,不僅凸顯了當代美學觀念與創作形式的創新,並促使人們重新思考藝術以及藝術家在現代社會中所該扮演的角色。甚至在Louis Bourgeois死前,她仍舊把僅存的時間留給了創作,如此燃燒生命的態度,讓她不僅成為藝術後輩師法的對象,也感染了時尚圈,成為設計師的靈感來源。

Louis Bourgeois為Helmut Lang拍攝的廣告形象照。

Louis Bourgeois為Helmut Lang拍攝的廣告形象照。

其中,以極簡美學著名,從時尚設計師轉為藝術家的Helmut Lang可謂Louis Bourgeois最忠實的追隨者,兩人以各種方式進行跨界合作。早在1997年,Helmut Lang找來Louis Bourgeois擔任廣告代言人,在攝影師Bruce Weber的鏡頭下,這位年屆86歲的藝術家,展現出俏皮的女王姿態。接著Helmut Lang 2003秋冬男裝秀場上,Louis Bourgeois的音樂創作成為秀場背景樂。此外,兩人還合作了T-shirt與絲巾創作,立下時尚與藝術之間良性互動的典範。

Simone Rocha 2011秋冬女裝作品。

Simone Rocha 2011秋冬女裝作品。

新銳設計師Simone Rocha也是Louis Bourgeois頭號粉絲,在她首次登上倫敦2011秋冬時裝周的作品,便反應了她對藝術家的喜愛,將其知名以金屬、布料製成的雕塑作品,以及藝術家本身的正式穿著結合,設計出一系列拘謹西裝輪廓混搭裸色通透布料的設計,加上皮革與皮草的點綴,大膽的材質運用,頗得Louis Bourgeois真傳。2012春夏,Simone Rocha延續相同主題,大量運用透明橡膠或紗質布料,讓內層的服裝得以被看見,反應了藝術家許多透視概念的畫作,如1998年的「Blue Dress」,大大豐富了造型層次。

Simone Rocha講述Louis Bourgeois對她的影響。(影片轉載自Blue Raincloud)

此外,Louis Vuitton 2011早秋設計也以Louise Bourgeois為靈感,並以「解放征服世界女人的衣櫥」為系列服裝訂題,頗具女性主義色彩。而系列羊毛大衣與套裝上的繽紛印花,更讓人聯想Louise Bourgeois以收集而來的各式材質,創作出的一系列「布料畫作」。Rachel Roy 2012早秋同樣受到「布料畫作」的影響,同時結合紐約藝術家Jo-Ann Brody,以及波蘭女畫家Tamara de Lempicka對設計師的影響,祭出一系列富含打褶、抓皺裝飾,以及繽紛印花的洋裝設計。

Louis Vuitton 2011早秋(左)、Rachel Roy 2012早秋(中)皆可看出Louise Bourgeois「布料畫作」系列對設計師的影響。(右圖為2007年完成的無題作品)

Louis Vuitton 2011早秋(左)、Rachel Roy 2012早秋(中)皆可看出Louise Bourgeois「布料畫作」系列對設計師的影響。(右圖為2007年完成的無題作品)

2013秋冬女裝伸展台上,Louise Bourgeois成為新興品牌聚焦的標的。Creatures of Comfort大量運用網紋印花,反應藝術家牢籠形象的雕塑作品。形象目錄中,以白菜串連而成的裝飾,更直指藝術家早期具備原民木雕特色的作品,是設計師Jade Lai對Louise Bourgeois表達的敬意。德國設計師雙人組Silke Geib與Nadine Möllenkamp創立的品牌Blaenk,則取材「Cell」系列作品,為服裝妝點上以毛料、皮草、蕾絲組成的立體裝飾,給人雕塑品感受,以服裝的形式,讓Louise Bourgeois燃燒生命的藝術態度,得以在時尚圈中延伸、傳承。««

左:Creatures of Comfort 2013秋冬女裝、中、右:Blaenk 2013秋冬女裝。

左:Creatures of Comfort 2013秋冬女裝、中、右:Blaenk 2013秋冬女裝。

»»Louise Bourgeois, one of the most notable artists in the world, passed away in 2010. However her prestige and influence didn’t fade away with her leaving, instead, her experimental spirit and the creativity of design became the important inspiration for next generation and other field.

Louise Bourgeois was born in a family only expecting baby boys. Since she was little, she suffered from the madness of her father who chased glory that he would never reach and the sadness of her mother who endure husband’s cheating. Those pains resulted in her miserable childhood and the energy of her art creation.

After getting married, her art historian husband Robert Goldwater led her into the New York’s art community meeting influential artists, such as Marcel Duchamp and Joan Miró. In this stage, she mainly focus on painting and created lots of amazing works, including the penis series, “Clutching,1962” and “Eed of Softness,1967.” In 1981, her father and husband passed away and left her alone in the hardest time in her life. On the other hand, it was also her best time in creating outstanding sculptures. Her most well-known series work “Spider,” “Maman” and “Crouching Spider” also created in this period of time, which won her the name “Spiderwoman.”

In 2003, Louis Bourgeois got the Wolf Prize in Arts due to her art form innovation that reminded people to reconsider the roles that art should play in modern societies. Her spirit not only inspired the art field and also the fashion industry. Her best friend fashion designer-turn-artist Helmut Lang invited her to become the face of the brand. Their collaboration of Helmut Lang 2003 menswear show and creative scarfs also another classic in fashion.

Simone Rocha also the big fans of Louis Bourgeois. Her London 2011 A/W and 2012 S/S collection reinterpreted the images from Louis Bourgeois. While Louis Vuitton 2011 resort collection and Rachel Roy 2012 resort presented their garment inspired by Louis Bourgeois’ art, the 2013 A/W collection of Creatures of Comfort and Blaenk used various fabrics and materials to pay tribute to the great artist. From the creations from the fashion industry, the beauty of Louis Bourgeois’ artwork would never be forgotten.««

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