設計師偏愛哪個菜 試鏡秀導才是守門員
Casting Directors Makes the Choice


然而,你別以為只有設計師主導想要的模特,站在第一線守門的試鏡秀導,也會有他們喜好,Angus Munro坦言他只挑他喜歡的模特,最好帶點幽默樂趣,聰穎點的男女孩,他解釋在時裝秀期間工作往往緊湊且會讓他感到無聊窒息,所以如果工作的模特可以俏皮點帶給大家一絲樂趣,他挺樂意與他們長期配合。像是男模Jake Shortall,Angus幾乎都安排進品牌,縱使可能和品牌不太對味。你看,這就是弔詭的私心,想被選入走秀,新生模特得多跟秀導培養感情。

Angus Munro(左圖右)不否認秀導有其私心,他坦言他常讓男模Jake Shortall(右)試鏡成功,排進走秀。

Angus Munro(左圖右)不否認秀導有其私心,他坦言他常讓男模Jake Shortall(右)試鏡成功,排進走秀。

另外,Angus也分享和幾位設計師合作心得,他說和設計師Matthew Williamson是麻吉,無須開口多說,已深知對方要什麼,所以他們試鏡fitting很快,只稍半天時間即可決定一切。和Rick Owens就不同了,因為設計師藝術性格強烈,每季都會嘗試新鮮感,有時會在模特臉上塗東塗西,或者有特殊要求,尤其是男裝規格甚嚴,所以得在試鏡前和他溝通許久,有可能要好幾回電郵或線上通訊,有時還得跟造型師三方連線,但Angus很愛這種挑戰性。儘管如此,Angus語重心長認為,只要挑對模特就能把服裝特色表達到位,可偏偏有些設計師或造型師特愛在模特身上加東加西,用一大堆配件髮飾,分不清重點在哪。是哪位設計師像Angus Munro所說,噓,一切是商業機密,無法對外透露。 ««

Angus Munro表示他和Rick Owens工作最常腦力激盪,圖為品牌2015秋冬女裝。

Angus Munro表示他和Rick Owens工作最常腦力激盪,圖為品牌2015秋冬女裝。

»»Casting Models is very important in the process of a fashion show. To choose the right models, the casting directors have to know the taste of the designer. For example, casting directors Barbara Nicoli and Leila Ananna of Gucci knows exactly the different taste between designers Frida Giannini and Alessandro Michele. Angus Munro on the other hand knows exactly what kind of models Rick Owens likes.    

To give a few examples of the different types of models each brand prefers, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana and Jeremy Scott likes muscular bodies. Alessandro Michele likes unisex body shape. Miuccia Prada likes the youthful look, Raf Simons likes western white. These casting directors also put their personal taste in casting. For example, Angus Munro prefers model Jake Shortall, so he puts him in every brand he casts for. The casting directors can no question make or break a model.  ««

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