金剪獎娘子軍發威
Golden Shears Award’s Girl Power


今年的銀剪獎(Silver Shears Award),則獎落Anderson & Shepphard的24歲學徒Jennie McWalter,以櫻桃紅獵裝燕尾服、雙排扣背心以及海軍格紋長褲,展現傳統英式獵裝的迷人風采。其中,燕尾服的內襯,更是McWalter費心取得授權,將已故藝術家Wilk蔚為人知的狩獵草圖作為圖樣,運用數位印刷方式印在絲綢材質上,呈現出低調奢華的驚人質感。McWalter說:「我想要做出一個『會說故事且充滿活力』的內裡。」

McWalter的設計靈感來自Lake District歷史悠久的狩獵文化。

McWalter的設計靈感來自Lake District歷史悠久的狩獵文化。

McWalter的設計靈感來自她的成長之地–Lake District,她希望能呈現出當地歷史悠久的狩獵文化。「我不希望別人認為我來到倫敦就忘記了自己的故鄉。」McWalter透露,為了準備此次的比賽,自己花了整整一年時間研究,父母親也非常支持她;未來McWalter也將繼續在Anderson & Shepphard完成她的實習。

2013銀剪獎(Silver Shears Award)得主Jennie McWalter(右)。

2013銀剪獎(Silver Shears Award)得主Jennie McWalter(右)。

最後,2013年的金剪獎最大獎得主,是來自Henry Poole & Co.的學徒Emily Squires。今年28歲的Squires以一席藍色長版天鵝絨外套與手工拼接內裡,搭配厚呢深藍色背心以及白底深色線條的騎馬褲,一舉獲得金剪獎獎盃與2000英鎊的獎金。據說得獎的瞬間,Squires驚訝得尖叫出聲,趕忙連跑帶跳地上台領獎,驚喜之情溢於言表。她強調自己對於傳統裁縫的重視,並表示自己最期待看到男用吊帶能重新流行,「我最近看到越來越多男士使用吊帶,但他們都沒有配戴在正確的腰部高度上。」

Emily Squires(左圖右)獲得金剪獎獎盃與2000英鎊的獎金。

Emily Squires(左圖右)獲得金剪獎獎盃與2000英鎊的獎金。

水晶吊燈、伸展台,裁縫師們一雙雙做出上百件完美西服的手,此刻正拿著香檳杯舉杯碰撞:又是一個充滿歡笑的夜晚。金剪獎讓我們看見英國對於裁縫極致的細節講究與精益求精,而薩維爾街的古老傳統,也將藉此延續下去。««

»»While Nick Hewer, one of Golden Shears Awards’ judges, said, “Where have all the men gone? Savile Row is overrun!” The quote revealed that most of the big prizes of Golden Shears Award in 2013 were all taken by female designers.

The Golden Shears Award started in 1970, which was supported by Peter Studd and professionals. Every two year the judges would selecte apprentice tailors and fashion students from across the UK. This year in the 25 finalists, 22 of them were female. Moreover, the big prize winners were all female, too.

Yan Zhang from Havering College won Rising Star prize, whose talents were shown on professional tailing stills and the creativity in design. Jennie McWalter from Anderson & Shepphard got judges’ recognition by winning Silver Shears Award. Her digital print of artist Wilk’s work impressed the judges. The apprentice from Henry Poole & Co, Kathryn Sargent, was the biggest winner who took Golden Shears Award home. Showed the respect to tradition, she said that brace top trousers was the item of traditional tailoring that she’d like to see make a return. Congratulations for all the winners.««

 

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