難忘美好年代 設計師也瘋狂
Unforgettable Belle Époque in Designers’ Minds


愛上美好年代者,黎巴嫩設計師Zuhair Murad在高訂方面亦有從19世紀末汲取靈感,2006秋冬融合了舞台劇芝加哥和19世紀末到1900年代初期的服裝特色,同時呼應著設計師向來強調高訂華麗質感,金蔥綠銀、施華洛世奇水晶綴飾,貼近早期上流名媛出席社交場合形象。Alexander McQueen雖本著英倫精神,多數援用維多利亞時期或都鐸文化背景,但別忘了法國人尊稱的美好年代,恰好和英國的維多利亞時代末期時間重疊,而已故設計師到現任的Sarah Burton依然或多或少對纖腰體態有所鍾情,從1990年代已降到最近的2012早秋或2013秋冬,馬甲胸衣與New Look花苞剪裁,hold住細腰翹臀輪廓。儘管現代女人講究自由,不愛被包得緊繃像綁肉粽式的穿衣style,但能強調腰線完美似乎永不嫌麻煩,也或許19世紀初的衣裝現在看來,有些笨拙,若抽取箇中優點,依然能激發無限的靈感。««

左起Zuhair Murad 2006秋冬高訂、Alexander McQueen 2012早秋與Alexander McQueen 2013秋冬系列。

左起Zuhair Murad 2006秋冬高訂、Alexander McQueen 2012早秋與Alexander McQueen 2013秋冬系列。

»»During the period of time in French and Belgian history between 1871 to World War I began in 1914, which was a period characterized by optimism, peace at home and in Europe, new technology and scientific discoveries, inspired so many designers in fashion.

The most influence of the prosperity in Belle Époque was the World’s Fair. While the Europe boosted by the second industry revolution, every country was eager to hold the event to promote the great power of each empire. Related to fashion, the influence began from women’s glamorous dresses when they watched the dancing performance.

The need of luxurious and beautiful garment for party or event helped the rise of designer workshop who particularly served their needs. Charles Frederick Worth was the pioneer at that time. To echo the awareness of women’s right, women discarded the corset to embrace the freedom of body. Paul Poiret led the trend by combining the Eastern elements from Japan and China into garment. Moreover, when he held his fashion show, he treated his guest with beautiful garment and also cuisine. Also the fifth World’s Fair delivered the dress power to all over the world.

Designers who influenced by the Belle Époque was Christian Dior. His “New Look” was inspired by the optimism and forever beauty during Belle Époque. While John Galliano was creative director of the brand, he also followed the step of Mr. Dior to reinterpret his spirit. Jean Paul Gaultier would never forget Charles Frederick Worth’s creation so that Belle Époque element was full in his collection. In addition, Zuhair Murad and Alexander McQueen were all admired the chic atmosphere to express in their collections.««

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