高級珠寶秀 還是Chanel經典迷人
Chanel Shines at Couture Jewelry Show


左為Cindy Chao翡翠耳環,右為Chopard孔雀耳環。

左為Cindy Chao翡翠耳環,右為Chopard孔雀耳環。

»»高級珠寶大秀,真的只能趁發表期間試戴過乾癮,像是Chanel反芻品牌經典元素,一口氣發表33款Les Intemporels de Chanel系列珠寶裡,有一款山茶花造型鑲嵌白鑽,以日本粉色珍珠串戴的項鍊,要價可能高達37萬美金。其他如Boucheron、Chopard和Cindy Chao等,表現也不遑多讓,各以精緻工藝與對寶石質感之講究,魅力四射。

Maison Margiela發表珠寶系列,以極簡主義為出發點。

Maison Margiela發表珠寶系列,以極簡主義為出發點。

Dolce & Gabbana發表2015春夏高訂時,邀請芭蕾舞團為伸展台暖場,但最映入眼簾的是品牌發表的珠寶系列,不若一般高級珠寶雕龍雕鳳童話般的處理,Dolce & Gabbana拿出草莓櫻桃當造型,甚至辣椒蔬菜也入列了,加入義大利西西里島的手工藝,讓珠寶設計充滿民俗富麗想像。然而最浪漫的是兩位設計師將彩寶珠寶與花卉結合,花朵中心花蕊部分全鑲嵌珠寶造型裝飾,若不仔細觀察,很難辨別箇中差異。而已經更名的Maison Margiela,雖然現場陳列走超現實路線,拿螃蟹、鳥禽標本當背景,可珠寶系列也是有個性得很,不走傳統高級珠寶華麗風格,信守Less is More的極簡信條,靈感取自鬆緊帶,利用純金與鑽石打造雙指戒,指環蜿蜒曲折,線條硬是與別人不一樣。

Dolce & Gabbana的珠寶以水果花卉為造型。

Dolce & Gabbana的珠寶以水果花卉為造型。

其他精品不約而同為既有系列推陳出新,好比是De Beers為Phenomena系列帶來Sirocco與Sunbeam  2組新設計,白金項鍊鑲嵌5.23克拉梨形鑽石,造價就要將近90萬美金。另外像是Boucheron根據1968年發表的Serpent Bohême蛇型珠寶系列,在今年珠寶展公布新珠寶腕錶,珍珠母貝錶盤鑲嵌白金與鑽石,搭配纖細緞面錶帶,相當雅致。同時Boucheron也藉珠寶展宣告進軍全方位珠寶市場,帶來品牌第一款新娘珠寶系列。誰說不景氣,在珠寶市場只有增值沒有貶值。««

左為Boucheron Serpent Bohême系列珠寶腕錶,右為De Beers Phenomena系列新款。

左為Boucheron Serpent Bohême系列珠寶腕錶,右為De Beers Phenomena系列新款。

»»The official haute joaillerie calendar unveiled unique jewelry creations during Paris Couture Week. Brands such as Boucheron, Chanel and newcomer Chopard were on the official schedule. They were joined by a host of brands staging presentations, including Cindy Chao, Dauphin, De Beers, Elie Top, Sabine G. and Temple St. Clair.  

Dolce & Gabbana utilized foral and fruity motifs, following their couture collection, while Maison Margiela offered a truly minimal take on jewelry symbolizing eternity. De Beers unveiled additions to its Phenomena collection with two new sets, Sirocco and Sunbeam. Made from white gold, the Sirocco necklace is set with 42.27 carats of diamonds, including a 5.23-carat dangling pear-shaped diamond pendant worth almost 90,000 USD. Boucheron with its Serpent Bohême launched in 1968, introduced a dainty gold-and-diamond watch with a mother-of-pearl dial and a slim satin strap. Boucheron also presented its first bridal pieces, with wedding bands and engagement rings reprising its twisted chain effect in yellow, pink or white gold.««

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